dusted
Well-Known Member
Looking forward to microsquirt install.
71 Duster 360 turbo build
- Thread starter turbovan
- Start date
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I am too, and so far I’ve found it pretty easy to work with. The only roadblock I’m hitting now is installation/purchase of a trigger wheel. I’ll need to buy one and have the inner hole opened up on a lathe or design something to be cut on a water jet table.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Or maybe one of these will work.
Ring gear style trigger wheel
You can order really any size wheel with any size hole.
Ring gear style trigger wheel
You can order really any size wheel with any size hole.
I saw the trigger wheel site, but need the inner diameter to be right about 4.25” to fit onto the stock pulley. I don’t trust myself to makeup the gap without it being out of round. I’m also still on the stock damper which doesn’t allow a wheel to sit flush so I have one on its way(backordered) from blueprint.
I’m after a setup like this:
I’m after a setup like this:
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I thought this was my picture at first glance, but mine is closer to the pulley to allow more room near the damper. I'd recommend drilling a small hole through the pulled into the damper. That way if you ever have to remove the crank pulley, you know where it goes. Otherwise, you will have to go through the whole timing sequence again.
FYI. If you are planning on using micro, you don't need a crank signal off the crank, you can use the distributor signal.
I wrote up a thread on my conversion here --> LA sequential fuel and spark EFI conversion
Great thread with lots of info, thank you! So I have a pertronix igniter in my distributor which I don’t believe will work with microsquirt or at least I haven’t found a clear answer in regards to pull-up resistors. Regardless, I want my timing to be precise and consistent considering how hard I’ll inevitability push this car. So my plans are for wasted spark with d585 coils in the same location you have yours. Trigger wheel on the crank, and a magnum distributor(already have) for cam sync is the direction I’m headed.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
If you have all of these parts, why not use a MS3X? That way you can get sequential spark and fuel. Batch firing and wasted sparking a turbo car may not be the best idea if you plan on pushing it. The magnum distributor will work fine. The Jeep cam sensor route is fairly easy too and it will save some space. I like where my coils are located for a nice appearance, but they do make it difficult to work on anything back there. The brackets also weren't fun to make. I hope to add a supercharger one day, which will require a return style fuel system. That will obviously take up more space. I've thought about moving the coils to the top of the valve covers when I do that. After all, it won't look "stock" anymore without the factory air filter on it.
I did struggle with the choice between the two, but decided on microsquirt and already made my purchase. At the time I planned to still use the distributor and single coil, but then my MSD box died and reading led me to wasted spark. I couldn’t find any downfall in regards to wasted spark until about 10k rpm so I believe I’ll be fine and still FAR better off than I was with the distributor alone. My engine bay certainly doesn’t look stock, but I do want it to look as uncluttered as possible.
What size is your trigger wheel? It looks like it barely clears the water pump…8 1/4?
I had mine made here. Cost about $40 shipped. I still have the design file if interested. It was a little tight so I had the machine shop turn it down a hair and it pressed on perfectly and then I tacked it.
https://www.badappleproducts.com/
I now have my trigger wheel thanks to Subcom’s help. He provided the design file and I was able to have it cut locally for $25. Also procured some 3.23’s, but I’m hesitant to install them due to my converter already a bit loose with 3.91’s.
Fyi-I’ve seen 4.26 regularly used for the inner hole diameter on our cars; 4.31 is what mine needed.
Fyi-I’ve seen 4.26 regularly used for the inner hole diameter on our cars; 4.31 is what mine needed.
This is what I used for the crank sensor. You’ll still need to fab up a bracket for it since there is really nothing available off the shelf for us.
Crankshaft Position Sensor - Hall Effect Threaded Body
Crankshaft Position Sensor - Hall Effect Threaded Body
Completed installation of the crank trigger wheel and sensor. The sensor is relatively close to the alternator, and I’m hoping that shielded wiring will be enough keep signal noise under control. Calibrated my new temperature sensors, and am beginning to integrate the Microsquirt wiring into my under dash harness.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
The only potential problem I see with your bracket is it may move around when the engine is running. I'm sure that power steering bracket will have some movement when its running. It may be fine, just something to look for when you get it going.
I appreciate the heads up! I am using those brackets to mount my alternator, and believe it to be a very stiff mount, but I’ll look into fabrication of an additional brace.
Got the intercooler mounted today, and still working on the plumbing. Running 3 1/2” piping out of the intercooler, through the wiper motor hole, and into the hat. The hat is clocked a little off so I’m wondering how fuel distribution will behave.
Microsquirt mostly complete. Haven’t yet decided where I’ll mount my ignition coils, but hoping to keep the engine bay clean as possible.
Microsquirt mostly complete. Haven’t yet decided where I’ll mount my ignition coils, but hoping to keep the engine bay clean as possible.
pishta
I know I'm right....
how much was the microsquirt? still looking for an old megajolt, not the newer $$ models. wish they still had the kits.
Around $350 with the harness. I’m into it for around $550 including sensors, trigger wheel and LS coils.
Looks great!
So are ALL 53020006 blocks drilled for the oil holes?
I’ve followed your recent posts in regards to shaft oiling and difficulty finding suitable rockers. I think this thread will help you:
Magnum vs LA block...differences...preferences
I’ve personally seen 3 53020006 blocks(94-97) with drilled oiling holes. My spare block is a 99 and I haven’t pulled the heads yet, but I’m not too worried because it doesn’t seem difficult to oil them externally. I’m very tempted to pull it apart, but it’s going to sit for a while and I prefer to keep the elements out.
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Thanks! I guess once they start treating the roads around here this winter, I’ll have to pull my heads and see if my block has the oil holes. If not, I might just drill my aluminum heads and do the external oiling as shown in that thread.
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