71 Duster 360 turbo build

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I completed installation of the intercooler water reservoir, pump, and lines. I finished the rest of the wiring harnesses needed for the Microsquirt, but still need to mount the ignition coils. Lots of progress, and I think I’ll have it running by the end of the month.

Also found a nice patch of rust at the passenger floor pan I need to do something with. I ordered carpet last March, and just received notice that it’s now delayed until February so I might need to make my own.

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You going to do anything for a rear firewall? The water lines look great but will be in the way. Maybe bulkhead fittings?
 
TT5.9mag said:
You going to do anything for a rear firewall? The water lines look great but will be in the way. Maybe bulkhead fittings?
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The car has a full interior, and the lines should be relatively if not entirely hidden.
 
I asked because earlier in the thread you said you were going to relocate the battery. That means you should have a rear firewall. Just food for thought.
 
Gotcha. My local track doesn’t seem to care about that rule so I thought I misunderstood it. They only require a firewall when using a fuel cell.
 
Some spare foam, and $15 worth of fleece. Will do until(or if) my carpet arrives.

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Engine bay is complete, and holding coolant so the water pump was my only issue(was worried about possible sleeve damage). I need to add oil and go grab some fresh e85, but besides that it’s ready to start assuming no errors with the Microsquirt install. I still have one interior intercooler bend to complete, and I’m doing a little work with the gauge cluster. On track for a test drive by the end of the month.

ALSO found my electrical issue from last season. After hours of tearing through every inch(literally) of the wiring harness and finding no issue I had the battery tested, again. Four hours later they called to say it’s good. Demanded another battery anyways. Problem solved.

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Well today was a bust. My water temp gauge broke when I was installing my cluster so I’ll have to order a new one, but for now I’ll just rely on the Microsquirt temp sensor. Next it was time to check for cam/crank sensor functionality which is when I learned I used the wrong wire to turn the Microsquirt on; key to start = power off. So I quickly rewired that to the brown wire off the column which…works? I tried the composite logger to track cam/crank events, but I got nothing. Checked power/ground at both sensors, and found loose pins on the cam sensor which got that working. However, it would only show up in the logger if I jumped the start solenoid; did not register when using the key to start even though the Microsquirt was powered up. The crank sensor(hall sensor sold by DIYAuTune) doesn’t seem to be working so I’ll take a closer look at the wiring for that tomorrow, but I followed the directions in the Microsquirt manual including the use of a pull-up resistor. Coils and everything else tested fine so I should be one sensor away from firing.

I also made a Black Friday purchase of CNC Speedmaster heads assuming they would be 6 months out…they arrived today. So I’ll have a valve job done, and toss them into the mix eventually. I’ll need another cam to take advantage of them. Important to note that these heads would have been a mistake to just bolt on. There is plenty of semi loose aluminum shavings just itching to cause havoc.

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turbovan said:
Well today was a bust. My water temp gauge broke when I was installing my cluster so I’ll have to order a new one, but for now I’ll just rely on the Microsquirt temp sensor. Next it was time to check for cam/crank sensor functionality which is when I learned I used the wrong wire to turn the Microsquirt on; key to start = power off. So I quickly rewired that to the brown wire off the column which…works? I tried the composite logger to track cam/crank events, but I got nothing. Checked power/ground at both sensors, and found loose pins on the cam sensor which got that working. However, it would only show up in the logger if I jumped the start solenoid; did not register when using the key to start even though the Microsquirt was powered up. The crank sensor(hall sensor sold by DIYAuTune) doesn’t seem to be working so I’ll take a closer look at the wiring for that tomorrow, but I followed the directions in the Microsquirt manual including the use of a pull-up resistor. Coils and everything else tested fine so I should be one sensor away from firing.
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I struggled with this same problem on my MS install. There was simply too much voltage drop when trying to power everything from the ignition. So I power on my MS from a toggle switch that is constant power from battery (with a fuse of course) that feeds the relay that triggers the main "Switched 12V+ IN" on the MS. My MS unit also has separate/dedicated power and ground cables back to the battery along the passenger's side.
 
This is from my spreadsheet where I document all of my pin-outs and wire runs:
"Crank Cherry Hall Effect Sensor - Requires pull up resistor. This tees into both the supply voltage and the output signal wire. Use a 2.4K resistor when using 12v teed between the VREF and signal wire to pull this up."
As I recall, diyauto only sends a 1k resistor with the Cherry hall sensor. So if you are powering the sensor from a 12v feed, you'll need to buy and T-in a 2.4k resistor.
 
subcom said:
I struggled with this same problem on my MS install. There was simply too much voltage drop when trying to power everything from the ignition. So I power on my MS from a toggle switch that is constant power from battery (with a fuse of course) that feeds the relay that triggers the main "Switched 12V+ IN" on the MS. My MS unit also has separate/dedicated power and ground cables back to the battery along the passenger's side.
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Thank you. I’ll wire up a toggle today, and hope that will do the trick for now. Have you considered using a time delay(off) relay?
 
turbovan said:
Thank you. I’ll wire up a toggle today, and hope that will do the trick for now. Have you considered using a time delay(off) relay?
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I haven't. Didn't know they existed. Definitely an interesting idea.
 
@turbovan are you using the stock ignition switch for your 12v switched power? You know cranking 12v and running 12v are separate on the stock ignition switch and there is a mechanical gap (delay) when you move the key back from start to run.
 
I’ve used time delay relays in HVAC applications. Just saw this morning that they’re offered for 12v.

I definitely noted the mechanical gap for power on the brown wire, but on my car it does have power in the “on” and “start.” Still, not a solution because of the gap.
 
TT5.9mag said:
@turbovan are you using the stock ignition switch for your 12v switched power? You know cranking 12v and running 12v are separate on the stock ignition switch and there is a mechanical gap (delay) when you move the key back from start to run.
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This is correct. You will need to jump these two together so you have power when cranking.


"Crank Cherry Hall Effect Sensor - Requires pull up resistor. This tees into both the supply voltage and the output signal wire. Use a 2.4K resistor when using 12v teed between the VREF and signal wire to pull this up."
As I recall, diyauto only sends a 1k resistor with the Cherry hall sensor. So if you are powering the sensor from a 12v feed, you'll need to buy and T-in a 2.4k resistor.

This is also correct. The MS3X has an internal trim pot for the VR input, which I found useless. The pull up did the trick.

I'm working on wheel speed sensors using their hall effect sensor (traction control). I'm hoping that one is less of a pain than the VR sensor. It certainly isn't as easy to make a bracket for like the red threaded body sensor.
 
Crank sensor fixed. I had the power and sensor wires swapped. I was rewarded with an impressive jolt by the nearby plug wire. I’m using 5v off the Vref wire, and the included 1k resistor.

Toggle for the MS allows logging while cranking.

Any recommendations on gap for this sensor?
 
With a VR sensor you want the smallest gap possible (within reason) without the possibility of the wheel teeth and the sensor making contact.
Edit: just saw you have a hall sensor,
 
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racerjoe said:
This is correct. You will need to jump these two together so you have power when cranking.


"Crank Cherry Hall Effect Sensor - Requires pull up resistor. This tees into both the supply voltage and the output signal wire. Use a 2.4K resistor when using 12v teed between the VREF and signal wire to pull this up."
As I recall, diyauto only sends a 1k resistor with the Cherry hall sensor. So if you are powering the sensor from a 12v feed, you'll need to buy and T-in a 2.4k resistor.

This is also correct. The MS3X has an internal trim pot for the VR input, which I found useless. The pull up did the trick.

I'm working on wheel speed sensors using their hall effect sensor (traction control). I'm hoping that one is less of a pain than the VR sensor. It certainly isn't as easy to make a bracket for like the red threaded body sensor.
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Very curious to hear how traction control works out for you. Especially how difficult it is to tune.
 
It runs




Rockers need adjusted, and I might need a new oil pan gasket, but idle is rock solid. Noticeable improvement over the distributer and MSD box.
 
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