727 doesn't shift into second gear like it should

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duster360 said:
I was reading over the instructions tonight for a refresher before I go back into it. The instructions say to take out the accumulator spring and thats it. No mention to block it with a rod or anything. Guess that is why I just took the spring out 20 years ago. I will make up a rod to put back in it. Scamptramp mentioned the rod length, but what about the diameter, maybe something around 3/8"?
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I've noticed some kits don't mention installing a blocker rod. Admittedly I haven't read a lot about them breaking and I've only ran into 2 that were broke but both had the springs removed. I just figure since it has 100 lbs. of hydraulic pressure slamming it back and forth it's a possible failure point. Yeah 3/8" dia. will work.
 
fishy68 said:
I've noticed some kits don't mention installing a blocker rod. Admittedly I haven't read a lot about them breaking and I've only ran into 2 that were broke but both had the springs removed. I just figure since it has 100 lbs. of hydraulic pressure slamming it back and forth it's a possible failure point. Yeah 3/8" dia. will work.
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Thats a lot of pressure. I will difinitly be doing that mod. Thanks.
 
thanks guys great thread, im soaking it all in plus the info i was PMed. i still havent been able to get under mine yet,but i will be armed with plenty of info !
 
Ok. I pulled the valvebody today. Pulled it apart and made sure the check balls were all in the right position. Made sure the rod was still behind the shuttle valve and not a spring. I did remove 1 check ball as per the instructins. The one ball is the difference between heavy duty and street/strip. Dont know why I didnt pull that one back in the day. Put it all back together and adjusted the pressure regulator. Had to back it out about an 1/8" farther than it was according to the instructions. Tomorrow I will be making the rod to install behind the accumulator valve. Anything else I should look at before I put the valvebody back in?
I also remembered to check the rear band lever and it has 3.7 stamped on it.
 
72ScampTramp said:
Not sure 3.7 is an option? I know there is a 3.8 and 3.2 sure it wasnt a 2 you seen?
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Thats possible. I will look again when I pull the pan off to be sure. Just put it on with a couple bolts to keep bugs and whatever else out.
 
duster360 said:
Anything else I should look at before I put the valvebody back in?
I also remembered to check the rear band lever and it has 3.7 stamped on it.
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I'd look and see if it has the inner spring in the rear servo replaced with a spacer or stack of shims and if doesn't I'd do it. It's real easy to tell just by looking up into the rear servo and if you see 2 springs it is stock and should be modified. Even if your trans. used to shift good before the overhaul not having the rear servo mod may cause trouble now because everything is tighter and more prone to experience overlap. If you do see an inner spring you meed to remove the servo which is a little tricky but not impossible. I can send you the instructions on how to do it if you like. Just PM me your e-mail address and I'll send it to you.
 
fishy68 said:
I'd look and see if it has the inner spring in the rear servo replaced with a spacer or stack of shims and if doesn't I'd do it. It's real easy to tell just by looking up into the rear servo and if you see 2 springs it is stock and should be modified. Even if your trans. used to shift good before the overhaul not having the rear servo mod may cause trouble now because everything is tighter and more prone to experience overlap. If you do see an inner spring you meed to remove the servo which is a little tricky but not impossible. I can send you the instructions on how to do it if you like. Just PM me your e-mail address and I'll send it to you.
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I am going to try this. I have been reading up on it and all the info seems to point to what you are saying. That it should help with band overlap.
 
To make a long story short, I had a transgo kit I had bought some time ago to install in another trans. I drilled a hole too big in the separator plate and put it all away. I had forgotten about having it until I was sent some paperwork by email so I went to the garage and there was the rest of the kit. I put the spacer and the large spring on the rear servo and readjusted the band. I also made the spacer for the accumulator. My question is that in the instructions it says to install the small plug with the hole in it in the front clutch apply hole on the trans where the valvebody goes. Should I use this also? And what does it do? Is the plug for the band overlap remedy or for other reasons.

Just for a reminder I am still using the B&M kit in the valvebody.
 
duster360 said:
My question is that in the instructions it says to install the small plug with the hole in it in the front clutch apply hole on the trans where the valvebody goes. Should I use this also? And what does it do? Is the plug for the band overlap remedy or for other reasons.

Just for a reminder I am still using the B&M kit in the valvebody.
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I answered via pm but I'll answer here too. That cup plug is to eliminate 2-3 shift overlap. I think B&M kits also use it so your trans. may already have it installed. If it was shifting good from 2nd to 3rd I'd leave it as is.
 
The B&M kit didn't have the plug. It is the cheapo kit. I remember reading somewhere that this particular kit is meant to help the 1-2 shift and not so much the 2-3.
I got the trans closed up and car is on the floor. Be ready for an update tomorrow on the results.
 
Oldkimmer is correct. Mine was just shy of 2 15/16" if you need the tape measure style measurement. I did measure mine with calipers and it came out at 2.938". I pushed the valvebody up against the housing before I put in any bolts and made sure that it sat flush to make sure the accumulator rod wasn't too long, it fit just right.
 
oldkimmer said:
...................2.850 in give or take...............kim..........
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duster360 said:
Oldkimmer is correct. Mine was just shy of 2 15/16" if you need the tape measure style measurement. I did measure mine with calipers and it came out at 2.938". I pushed the valvebody up against the housing before I put in any bolts and made sure that it sat flush to make sure the accumulator rod wasn't too long, it fit just right.
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When I installed a performance valve body in my truck I removed the spring and installed a spacer. It was a piece of electrical conduit in which the VB guy sent with the the VB. I have removed the performance VB and installed a stock VB but cant remember where I put that piece of conduit. I cant remember if the conduit was 3/4" in diameter or something else. Anyways since it was hollow it didn't weigh that much so I'm guessing that's why he uses conduit.
 
UPDATE. I drove the car today and it shifts awesome. The mods to the rear servo worked. After I verified the 1-2 shift was working good I went down a back road and came to a stop. I put the car in 1st and nailed it, tires start spinning, car is going a little sideways then I hit second and it shifts so quick it is still laying rubber. Now I am happy.

I want to thank everyone here that commented on my thread to try and help. THANKS FABO MEMBERS.
 
duster360 said:
UPDATE. I drove the car today and it shifts awesome. The mods to the rear servo worked. After I verified the 1-2 shift was working good I went down a back road and came to a stop. I put the car in 1st and nailed it, tires start spinning, car is going a little sideways then I hit second and it shifts so quick it is still laying rubber. Now I am happy.

I want to thank everyone here that commented on my thread to try and help. THANKS FABO MEMBERS.
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that is AWESOME ! great to hear, now i know exactly what i need to do. and thanks to everyone for all the information ! good job people
 
But hows the 2--3 shift. That is were my 904 needed some tuning before it went in to storage. The 1-2 shift is great, barks the tires but 2-3 slips a tad at full throttle shifts--its a manual valve body
 
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