727 parts needed for RB install in a 69 barracuda

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grjammer

grjammer

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Looking for more information on the console shifter lower torque shaft bracket. I currently have a 904 on a small block installed. I have a 72 727 for the RB I am installing. It does not have any levers or brackets installed.
Current research indicates the only things necessary for the swap are the lower bracket and drive shaft.
Any input on this and possibly a source to find the correct bracket? The attached picture is the only one I have found, and does look like the bracket I have on the 904.
Thanks in advance.

Cuda Console Shifter 69.jpg
 
Does your 727 have the correct extension housing on it to accept that bracket? Not all of them have provisions for the bracket.
 
plymouth67 said:
Does your 727 have the correct extension housing on it to accept that bracket? Not all of them have provisions for the bracket.
Click to expand...
I think i have a tailstock that has the bracket, but i split it while driving out the yoke bushing. I wonder if it could be welded in place on a non-bracket tailstock??
 
Yes it does have the two holes to mount. I just need to determine if I can make the 904 bracket work, or do I source a 727 bracket.
 
I found brackets for sale on the VANS website. It is odd that the one pictured for a 727 looks identical to what I have.
I will wait until the trans is installed and go from there.
 
or zip tie the kick down lever on the box halfway through it's travel (and adjust that to get the shift points where you prefer) and use the shift lever for the very odd occasion you'll need 'kickdown' on a big block 'a' body. that was what i did for my 65 dart with a 440/727, and i kept the column shift for the sleeper look inside too. i very very rarely had to down shift as there was enough power even at low revs to break the tyres loose so there wasn't much point.
neil.
 
It's fun to be on a freeway ramp at 45-50 mph, kick it down and bust loose the rear tires. When I was a pre-internet young gun i tied my KD lever with a coat hanger wire. If I could obtain accurate measurements of the levers and pivot points I am sure I can modify or fabricate the swivels and rods.
I won't be going the Lokar setup except as a last resort.
 
Pretty sure the lower bracket is the same, not sure on the kickdown lever. It will only take a few minutes to find out.
 
66fs said:
Pretty sure the lower bracket is the same, not sure on the kickdown lever. It will only take a few minutes to find out.
Click to expand...
Yep I did the big block swap way back when, only needed to shorten the drive shaft, MVB so no need for kick down
 
I had the exact same problem with my swap. The 727 didnt come with the bracket, and I mustve lost the one off my 904 trans so I couldnt even compare it to fit.

I just made a bracket myself out of some flat steel plate laying around. The shifter rod extends far enough down past the level of the trans pan, so you can grab 3 of the bolts and locate the rod.

1730289008860.png


I needed a few washers between the bracket and the pan since the pan has a lip around the edge and that keeps even pressure.
 
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Nice looking pan. Need a bushing?
I am sliding the RB/727 under the car this weekend so I will be able to test fit the bracket I have. Geometry looks good for angled mount on tail shaft. Crossing my fingers.
 
Everything worked out for the bracket. I set up the kickdown when the engine was still on the dolly and all works great.
I installed the engine transmission today, and have plenty clearance for the mech kickdown so happy about that, but
my accelerator cable (new) is way too long. the firewall hole is so close to the Mopar Performance valve cover I don't see how any length would work. Anybody else have this issue and worked it out?
 
My original throttle cable does fit, just a little too tight around the MP valve cover, and the plastic jacket is long gone. I ordered a "correct" throttle cable from Mancini, what a POS it is. I will have to rework it to make it work. ferrule crimps are almost non-existent, and the wire length is over an inch too long. I might just swage a new stop on it and rework the ferrule crimps. Everything else seemed to work well including my new driveshaft. I did get a messed up MOOG problem creator u-joint for 7290 to 7260. The kit had 3 7290 caps and only 1 7260. I had a few other 7260 joints so just used a cap from one of them. Have seen that story before...
 
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