727 transmissions are so complex

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Do you happen to have a picture of that setup?
Just for you :) went out to shop and slapped it together. (2) 3/8-16 x 8" bolts (or longer, maybe some galvanized carriage bolts for more stroke?)
(2) 3/8 "thick" washers, or any washer really (2) 1-1/2" or larger 1/2" drive sockets, the bigger the better, screw the bolts fully into the two threaded holes in the pump cover (9 and 3 o'clock holes) and in synch, slide hammer the pump cover off!
 
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Absolutely! It's not nearly the mystery it used to be. I'm not a 727 guru - but I understand it very well now on a basic level.

And I saved a ton of money and I'm very proud to say "I did it myself"!


Jeff


So you saved a ton of money when you switched to GEICO?
 
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View attachment 1715228198 Just for you :) went out to shop and slapped it together. (2) 3/8-16 x 8" bolts (or longer, maybe some galvanized carriage bolts for more stroke?)
(2) 3/8 "thick" washers, or any washer really (2) 1-1/2" or larger 1/2" drive sockets, the bigger the better, screw the bolts fully into the two threaded holes in the pump cover (9 and 3 o'clock holes) and in synch, slide hammer the pump cover off!
I kept watching this one guys video over and over and rewinding it and finding that spot where he just kind of laughing at everybody and calling them rookies but all of a sudden pop that pump comes flying out and I was wondering how he did that so I kept watching it and I think he just kind of stuck his screwdriver in from behind and gave it a little pop and it flew out.
I use my homemade Slide Hammer also on the first one and that one was too burnt out inside and I had a second one and it was nicer inside. originally opened it for parts for the first one but quickly realized that it was a much better Transmission in side but long story short on that second one I wasn't trying to save the pump or anything and just whacked it from the inside and it popped right out without doing the whole slide Hammer stuff. And that ended up being the one that I used. FYI best automatic transmission I ever had. (I'm a 4speed man) I had a B & M shift kit in my first 904 and that was a long time ago and I think I liked it but I used a transgo this time and it was excellent also.
 
They are one of the easiest transmissions you will ever build.
 
FWIW, I had never worked on ANY transmission. I rebuilt my 833 4 speed a few years ago, and it came out fine. Just take your time and follow the instructions carefully. I KNOW the OP is talking about a 727, but how much difference is there in buying a book and following it to rebuild a 727 vs a 833? They are both kinda scary the first time. I would not hesitate at all to do another one now.
 
Here's how I don't get lost with an automatic. Look at each individual assembly. The front pump, the direct clutch, the plantaries, the low reverse clutch pack. If you look at it that way, it becomes much easier.
 
I have a stubborn 727 in my 72 Duster that will not shift into 3rd gear. I had a TCI manual valve body put in it and have had it built by what was supposed to one of the best shops in the area. With the car on jack stands, I can go through all the gears and feel positive feedback at all the positions on the indicator. However, soon as I get the car on the ground and drive it, it will not shift into 3rd. Any thoughts? It’s going back to the shop this Friday when I’m off. Thanks!!
Could be the high clutch. That's the weakest link in these trannys. I've had 2 go out. When it shifts from 2 to 3, the kick down band releases and the high clutch is applied. Then you are in 3rd. No high clutch, no 3rd.
 
The thing I like about the 727 is that in first gear, the overunning clutch holds. Then when the kick down (front) band applies, it is immediately in 2nd, and the overrunning clutch freewheels, or over runs. In other words, it won't let the shaft spin backwards, only forward. Also referred to as a one way clutch. That's why the 1-2 upshift is so instant. All that has to happen, is the front band, or kick down band has to apply.
 
When in 3rd gear the direct, or front, clutch is applied, and the output shaft rotates at the same speed as the input shaft.
I saw a chart somewhere showing which clutch and band are applied in each gear. That was helpful in understanding how it all works.
 
View attachment 1715228198 Just for you :) went out to shop and slapped it together. (2) 3/8-16 x 8" bolts (or longer, maybe some galvanized carriage bolts for more stroke?)
(2) 3/8 "thick" washers, or any washer really (2) 1-1/2" or larger 1/2" drive sockets, the bigger the better, screw the bolts fully into the two threaded holes in the pump cover (9 and 3 o'clock holes) and in synch, slide hammer the pump cover off!
That’s a great trick to get the pump off. I looked at all the parts stores for a slide hammer that would work couldnt find anything. I spent less than 5 dollars at Lowe’s and made a tool. This worked great as well.
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And it is possible to make your own bushing drivers, if that's your thing. Aside from those lucky enough to :D have access to a machine shop, I used exhaust tubing and a big washer welded up, and use the handle from a bearing/seal driver kit for driving out/in the converter pump bushing. Not sure I'd wanna make a driver for all the various bushings though!
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:rolleyes:
 
IMO torqueflite's are by far the easiest automatic transmission to rebuild. I did my first one when I was 17 in high school auto class 37 yrs ago. Worked great. If you think a TF is difficult you don't want anything to do with a Turbo 400 or OD trans
 
I have been studying the books from Munroe and Hand. The information is so overwhelming that I hesitate to begin an overhaul or rebuild. Can you give me a great reason why I should do this myself instead of getting a TCI trans and call it good?

I am building 500+hp 512 ci stroker for my 73 scamp. I was a machinist for 12 years in my past life so i can do it. But why would I want to?

The options are to spend $600 for the kits to rebuild and replace the valve body for strip use.
Or to buy the TCI trans to do it for me. What does your wisdom say??
I read the books 10 years ago and have done at least 40 Transmissions since then the first transmission that I did went in an outlaw Hemi super stocker with 900 horsepower it had already been done so I just checked clearances and replaced frictions but it never blew up nor any of my other transmissions if you'd like to contact me feel free
 
I have been studying the books from Munroe and Hand. The information is so overwhelming that I hesitate to begin an overhaul or rebuild. Can you give me a great reason why I should do this myself instead of getting a TCI trans and call it good?

I am building 500+hp 512 ci stroker for my 73 scamp. I was a machinist for 12 years in my past life so i can do it. But why would I want to?

The options are to spend $600 for the kits to rebuild and replace the valve body for strip use.
Or to buy the TCI trans to do it for me. What does your wisdom say??
Another possibility is, if you are near a community college that has an automechanics program, you can take an automatic transmission class and rebuild it in class. My friend did that with good results.
 
So I opened up the transmission today. This was supposedly rebuilt with “race bands” put in to handle “anything”. What I found was very dirty fluid. What is in that fluid? What cleaner should be used for the insides of a transmission? I am thinking of using kerosene that I used to use in a parts cleaner tank. (I no longer have the tank). What about mineral spirits?

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So I opened up the transmission today. This was supposedly rebuilt with “race bands” put in to handle “anything”. What I found was very dirty fluid. What is in that fluid? What cleaner should be used for the insides of a transmission? I am thinking of using kerosene that I used to use in a parts cleaner tank. (I no longer have the tank). What about mineral spirits?

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That muck in the pan is all the seals and bands and clutches you're going to replace LOL when you take all that stuff out just set the aluminum shell out on the driveway and spray a couple bottles of Awesome from The Dollar Tree at it and hit it with the garden hose at high pressure until it's clean scrubbing may be necessary. And reassemble.
 
@j par , Sounds great for the aluminum shell. What about the internals that are steel and could rust? I was thinking about how quickly things like brake drums flash rust with water based degreasers. That is why I was looking at petroleum solvents. Thoughts?
 
@j par , Sounds great for the aluminum shell. What about the internals that are steel and could rust? I was thinking about how quickly things like brake drums flash rust with water based degreasers. That is why I was looking at petroleum solvents. Thoughts?
Without the wearable Parts like the rubber and the clutch material what's left is aluminum and machine Steele. You will clean everything with Degreaser and possibly a solvent and dry and treat with a lubricant. Like I would recommend a big massive generic jar of Vaseline LOL believe it or not because that's what's great for reassembling all the seals and everything. I just sprayed the hell out of mine with WD-40 and after I had everything cleaned. That's not meant to do anything but clean it more and temporarily keep it lubricated because WD-40 is a cleaner more than a lubricant of any kind. At least the way I use it. if you're going to store it for a long time maybe other precaution should be taken I don't know I don't let things sit around.
 
Thanks for the info. I will get the petroleum jelly and meticulously clean and wd-40 everything. I plan to disassemble, clean, reassemble asap. No long term storage.
 
FWIW, I had never worked on ANY transmission. I rebuilt my 833 4 speed a few years ago, and it came out fine. Just take your time and follow the instructions carefully. I KNOW the OP is talking about a 727, but how much difference is there in buying a book and following it to rebuild a 727 vs a 833? They are both kinda scary the first time. I would not hesitate at all to do another one now.
honestly I did my four-speed first before I tried this automatic 904 which of course is just a smaller version for our purposes hear of the 727 sharing the same valve body. If you can Master popping that pump out of the automatic and not disturb the sprag in the bottom of the case LOL cuz those little bearings and can pound out and pound in the bushings nicely if they even need to be replaced? It would seemingly be even easier than the four Speed which in itself was quite easy.
 
3 things I'll add...

1. Take your time.
2. Clean is very important. Hands, work area and all parts. No grit allowed.
3. Digital camera is your best friend. Take lots of pics as you go. Doesnt cost a nickel but could save you lots.

It only seems impossible utill youve done it.
 
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