HemiMark
Well-Known Member
Too late, I survived the night without buying anything.....just a lot of searching out parts for future needs.
That's what I thought and a new air compressor showed up 2 weeks later!
Too late, I survived the night without buying anything.....just a lot of searching out parts for future needs.
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No problem, But I gotta tell you this is my first attempt at quarters also so we'll both be learning except you'll be able to learn from my mistakes(hopefully I wont make too many)I gave to get a panel flanger to overlap 1/4" for welding the top....
Wow Reno...It took me reading the comment a few times before I realized what part of the build you were referring to......that's going way back to the very beginning, I almost forgot about that. Saw you Youtube video...cool Duster.
:mumum:
I prefer butt welding of the top of the quarters. Makes it clean in the trunk. Spot weld the other areas.when doing the butt weld make a bunch of tiny little tac welds until it gets filled in. Place the TAC welds in random areas to minimize warping. Keep a little spray bottle to cool it off as needed. I also shine a light from behind to expose any pinholes. The other thing about quarter replacement is to be patient as you will have to trim and fit many times.
Oh, do black stripes as it seems everyone has white. Mine came with black and I can't wait for the day when I will see them on my car!
That's my fault. When I gave them your credit card number, wouldn'tThat's what I thought and a new air compressor showed up 2 weeks later!
that has to go I was under the impression that you didn't advertise from your statement further back in this thread milodon on the oil pan just won't work . Lol love your build and your skills are off the map . I know your going to paint over it anyway just needed something to say in order to subscribe to the thread .Stopped by the engine builders shop today...short block is all together, there seems to be a problem with the ARP head studs and the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, the nuts can't get full engagement with the longer studs...I took the ARP studs back to Summit Racing to verify they were the correct studs in the correct box (which they were) and then I called ARP to see if they had a solution to the problem (they didn't), they did suggest we order individual length studs since they didn't have a longer kit available, they thought maybe Edelbrock changed the height of there casting. In the last picture you can see the 1/8" plug for the dipstick tube since I will not be using it, I'll utilizing the oil pan's 1/2" plug with a screw in Lokar piece. As always thanks for looking and comments are welcome.
that has to go I was under the impression that you didn't advertise from your statement further back in this thread milodon on the oil pan just won't work . Lol love your build and your skills are off the map . I know your going to paint over it anyway just needed something to say in order to subscribe to the thread .
I don't think that's a Milodon oil pan. Not anymore.milodon on the oil pan just won't work.
The way you keep us in suspence and always wanting more.......You should produce a reality show.
Miloross oil pan .
Heck I totally reinforced my K frame, made my own Strut Rods and Tie Rod bars and then sold everything to go a different route (HDK)
Same here except the rods and bars. Had it all installed and got the HDK bug. :banghead: Seems to be spreading.
The bad flu right now is swine flu - H1N1. I think I got H1DK1.
And the Hotchkis parts they were loosely based off of next to them for comparison. I also made a copy of the CAP (now out of business) version for the pivot point. AAAHHHH..... the memories !!!!! Page 7, post 159 of the building case anybody wants to see more.
I made a paper airplane last week ................
I made a paper airplane last week ................
I think he just did.You should throw it out... and go buy another HDK!!!!!
i see things are fantastic over here
I haven't seen any cat pictures yet.....I think I've finally hit bottom.
I haven't seen any cat pictures yet.