73' B3 340 Duster pro touring build

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Nice work on your connector install. After you got it painted, it looked like a factory frame underneath. Very clean!! L8r

Jim
 
I think I would hang the door just to make sure everything is straight.
The smallest twist in the rocker could throw you off.
 
76orangewagon......It's guys like you that take a POS and do the Voodoo that you do and turn that POS into a Masterpiece! When I first saw this thread my thought was "WOW! I hope he knows what he's getting into!" Well obviously you do! The work and craftsmanship that you have done is amazing! I restored my '78 Z28 at the same level and my Camaro was a cake walk compared to what you are/have been dealing with. Professional level work my friend! Impress me some more! PLEASE! PLEASE! PLEASE! I can't wait for more!
 
NukeSec1 said:
76orangewagon......It's guys like you that take a POS and do the Voodoo that you do and turn that POS into a Masterpiece! When I first saw this thread my thought was "WOW! I hope he knows what he's getting into!" Well obviously you do! The work and craftsmanship that you have done is amazing! I restored my '78 Z28 at the same level and my Camaro was a cake walk compared to what you are/have been dealing with. Professional level work my friend! Impress me some more! PLEASE! PLEASE! PLEASE! I can't wait for more!
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Thanks Nukesec1,
It's comments like your that help me look forward to the next weekend's progress. much appreciated.
 
I'm sold. I am going to buy the XV Motorsports radiator support for my Dart. Thanks.
 
76orangewagon said:
Demon1515,
I agree totally with the fitment, good job on your install buy the way, I decided to cut off the tabs and butt weld the front strictly due to the fitment. I wanted the connectors a little tighter to the floor and due to fact that I added so much extra strength with these I could afford to remove the overlapping tab and extra on the rear. Plus I'm not done adding structural rigidity yet. after the rockers are on I plan on reinforcing the floor/frame area by adding something along the idea of custom torque boxes. I feel at that point it should be solid enough to handle just about anything I plan on doing later down the road, I can always swap suspension and driveline components but once the chassis is painted no more add on's. thanks for your interest and concern.
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If I could weld like you i would cut them off also! Looking good Ross. Can you tell me what you used to fill the gap between the floor and the connector?
 
HemiMark said:
If I could weld like you i would cut them off also! Looking good Ross. Can you tell me what you used to fill the gap between the floor and the connector?
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Mark,
I used a rubberized seam sealer recommended by a body guy I know,
thanks for the positive comment's, any chance you want to sell any or all of the rear set up back to me so I dont have to start from scratch ???
 
OW,
Back in post #45, you had several pix with your car up on the rotisserie. Your's is very similar to the one I built. I like the idea of having the option to add the bigger wheels for cross country transport. Any chance that you could post a few pix of how the attaching wheels are constructed, it is difficult to see exactly what was done in the shots you had in that post. Thanks. L8r

Jim
 
gerahead said:
OW,
Back in post #45, you had several pix with your car up on the rotisserie. Your's is very similar to the one I built. I like the idea of having the option to add the bigger wheels for cross country transport. Any chance that you could post a few pix of how the attaching wheels are constructed, it is difficult to see exactly what was done in the shots you had in that post. Thanks. L8r

Since I'm not by the car during the Week to take better photos of the wheels, I cropped some existing shots to get a close up. The Off Road tires were a donation from a friend, there 12" rubber rated at 1250lbs ea, there connected to 2.00" x 2.00" .125 wall (1/8") and then fully welded to 2.50" x 2.50" .125 wall (1/8") which slide in the Rotisserie leg and secured with .750 (3/4") bolts. hope this help's, if you need better photos I can get them to you Thursday (off for Veterans day), just let me know
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76orangewagon said:
Mark,
I used a rubberized seam sealer recommended by a body guy I know,
thanks for the positive comment's, any chance you want to sell any or all of the rear set up back to me so I dont have to start from scratch ???
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seam sealer......... got it! I'll think about it!
 
76OW,
These are exactly what I was looking for, no need to get any others. It was just tuff to see what you had done to mount the tires. I saw that the frames telescoped into the existing frame. Thanks.
 
better idea for wheels...

i used spindles and hubs from a 94 ish dodge spirit. Then used car rims ... now i can go baja'ing with my rotisserie if needed

The main reason for the car hubs was that i needed to move the rotiserrie in and out of the shop. When something breaks on the farm the shop is needed so my little project gets kicked out. I added a tongue so i could pull it behind the tractor and back into the dry shed.
 
we'll its time for my weekend update/progress..cut out the back 23" of inner rocker, made a 4" x 23" replacement out of 4130 (chrome moly), hung the door shell for fitment/alignment purposes not to mention all the questions and comments regarding twisting and chassis flexing due to all the structural panel replacement I've done had me curious and second guessing my methods, so I wanted to check that too. Everything aligned fine and fit like it did before I tore it apart. So I got the outer rocker, door lock pillar and rocker end cap, again all the AMD parts fit nice with only minor tweaking and modifying. Enjoy
 

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gerahead said:
Brother, you do nice work! L8r

Jim
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Thanks for the kind words,
Being a machinist and welder for the Air Force makes this part fairly easy, when it gets to the body work I'll be out of my element, I can't wait to cut loose on the water jet and make some cool custom parts down the road.
 
76orangewagon said:
Thanks for the kind words,
Being a machinist and welder for the Air Force makes this part fairly easy, when it gets to the body work I'll be out of my element, I can't wait to cut loose on the water jet and make some cool custom parts down the road.
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Just remember to share the wealth when you get to cutting thos parts. :)

Great job in the car thus far.

Riddler
 
wow you have done a lot of work to this car I feel bad because I hardly did anything to mine compared to you. You are doing a great job. It looks like you should change your house name to Chrysler because you are building that car. Ha Ha
 
I just discovered my 32K original mile '73 Olds Cutlass Supreme has developed a bad case of rust on the passenger side rear wheel well (unknown to me as it was in storage). After the initial shock and the disappointing fact that re-pop panels are not available for this specific car I was devastated. After a consultation with the best body guy in the area and him telling me that he can't even get it in until March, my initial thought was......."This clown better be as good as 76orangewagon." Enough about my troubles! UPDATE! UPDATE! UPDATE!
 
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