Now there is no proof that the glove fit due to the dramatic fashion at which it was installed.
Unlike the steering column that looks nice, and hopefully no drama to put on. haha
73' B3 340 Duster pro touring build
- Thread starter 76orangewagon
- Start date
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Now there is no proof that the glove fit due to the dramatic fashion at which it was installed.
Unlike the steering column that looks nice, and hopefully no drama to put on. haha
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
I think the price is a little high for all that you get but as far as the quality goes it' s a nice product....I really don't put alot of faith in the majority of reviews, there's alot of ignorance and lazyness out there, if it doesn't install itself, people thing somethings a piece of crap. Hell look at this forum for example people can't follow directions they post for sale stuff wherever they want, they post non A body pics on here, I guess the word ONLY in FABO falls on deaf ears. Anyway I like the Hagans parts, the side markers are from there also.
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
Okay, did some mock up over the weekend, The bumpers finally came back from being "dechromed", got the driveline dropped in and the entire rear suspension assembled to make sure everthing still fit like it was designed to, looks like the rear will have to come up 1" since I dont really want to lower the front anymore and like a little "Rake" to my hot rods I have 6" ground clearance to the bottom of the K frame, 5 1/2" to the torsion bar crossmember and 9" to the rocker and roof height 53" I put my dad in the photo for a height reference...he's 6'. Then while washing the wifes Altima I decided to steal a wheel/tire combo since I was wondering what a 215/55R17 on a 17 rim would look like since my front wheels aren't here yet, I was pleasantly surprised by the look, I'm not a low profile tire kind of guy and didn't want to follow the trend by bolting on a Ford "cobra" tire size. Last but not least.... my back ordered hood off a brand "X" vehicle arrived at Summit Racing and will now give up its outer skin and stamped scoop....no Fiberglass here were gonna keep it all steel.
Ross,
Two things the hood is going to look great and the tires would look great on it as well, but then again I have 18's on my car so I am a little swayed by that size tire.
The hood is going to look great if you get it figured out make two and i will take one for my Duster as well.
Timothy
Two things the hood is going to look great and the tires would look great on it as well, but then again I have 18's on my car so I am a little swayed by that size tire.
The hood is going to look great if you get it figured out make two and i will take one for my Duster as well.
Timothy
Joe Dokes
Well-Known Member
You're going to have an awfully rough ride with those rear shocks. ;)
Looks really good. Keep up the good work.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
Looks really good. Keep up the good work.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
I figured you would like the tire size, as for the hood .....you know the second time you do something it's always easier and you correct your mistake's you made on the first go around....that being said "nice try" ....but I will offer pics and detailed instructions of the process for you to follow:thumrigh:
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
yea, but they were cheap !!!!! So that makes them a good deal right ?
Thanks for the compliment...
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
Thanks Tin,
I'm eventually get to the rear bumper and follow along with what you did to yours.....narrow it, fill the holes, make it fit closer and of course make a big hole for the exhaust tip.
HemiMark
Well-Known Member
I was wondering where you were! Looks great.... Hood is SWEET!
dusterbd13
Well-Known Member
i swear that looks like a full size chevy truck hood. for about an 88-97 truck. am i right?
like the stance. and i understand whgat you mean about the sidewall thing. i went to great pains to stuff some good rubber under mine. im running 255/40/17 fronts on my 70 duster, and 255/50/17 rear. good bit of sidewall, and almost enough width. when therse tires wear out, im stuffing 275/40/17 all the way around.
car is looking great. id love to see it given one good coat of DP90 epoxy primer in black, and then mocked back up. i think that would look absolutely evil.
like the stance. and i understand whgat you mean about the sidewall thing. i went to great pains to stuff some good rubber under mine. im running 255/40/17 fronts on my 70 duster, and 255/50/17 rear. good bit of sidewall, and almost enough width. when therse tires wear out, im stuffing 275/40/17 all the way around.
car is looking great. id love to see it given one good coat of DP90 epoxy primer in black, and then mocked back up. i think that would look absolutely evil.
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
Man you know your vehicles, your guess was spot on.\\
/.....The dimensions couldn't have worked out better both hoods are about 47" long and the scoop follows the 73' Duster factory raised bulge almost exactly, obviously the width (66" compared to 59" on the Duster) is way off but I have to cut it to size anyway. Your on the same page as me regarding sidewall width, I have hours of research in tires for this car... I didn't want to just bolt on the size that everyone else has and not quite look right (in most cases) I like the wheel wells to be filled with tire. Some guys get the look and some guys are out in left field regarding the look and stance I'm hoping for a home run. Sorry,No black DP here, once it goes to the body guy he can handle that part I am not a paint and body guy unfortunatley...It would look good though, I'll just look at T-Graingers and make my mental changes.I love your garage, i wish I had that kind of space to work in. The rear stance looks great, is there no way to get the front a little lower, rather than raising the rear? As you know, wheels, tires and stance are what make or break a car.
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
I'm crunching the numbers to see just how low I can go and still feel safe on Ohio roads...any thoughts? I'm waiting on my TTI 1 7/8" headers to see how they fit, I ordered them "Raw" so I could do some modifications" like I said earlier I currently have 5 1/2" to the frame near the torsion bar crossmember and 5 3/4" to the rear of the Milodon pro touring oil pan and 6"+ to the front of the K frame. Any of you lowered guys want to shoot me some numbers it would be appreciated....How low are the alterkation suspensions running for ground clearance ?
P.S.- the garage isn't mine....it's my Dad's, trust me I wish I had it too.
dusterbd13
Well-Known Member
hellm im so low i scrape bellhousing. youre running a small block, right?
ill get some measurements when i go down to the shop later.
ill get some measurements when i go down to the shop later.
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
Thanks I appreciate it. Yea I'm running a small block
dusterbd13
Well-Known Member
leading edge of K-frame is 5 inches from the pinch weld to the ground
lowest part of the front frame rail to the ground is 5 3/8
lakewood bellhousing to the ground ~3
hope that helps. the bell hangs about 2 inches lower than myheaders, which are TTI, and the X-pipe (3 inch) is around 3.5 off the ground. they could have made that a lot better, in my opinion. dont buy the TTI exhaust. build your own.
michael
lowest part of the front frame rail to the ground is 5 3/8
lakewood bellhousing to the ground ~3
hope that helps. the bell hangs about 2 inches lower than myheaders, which are TTI, and the X-pipe (3 inch) is around 3.5 off the ground. they could have made that a lot better, in my opinion. dont buy the TTI exhaust. build your own.
michael
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
Thanks Michael,
it sound's like were around the same ground clearance especially at the front frame rail......So the important question is: how much and often do you botttom out and if you didn't have the bellhousing hanging so low would everything else work ?
dusterbd13
Well-Known Member
i just about never bottom on the supension. the bellhousing. eh.
id still drag ny x pipe, though. after that would be the header collector flanges. way above that is pol pan or anything vital.
michael
id still drag ny x pipe, though. after that would be the header collector flanges. way above that is pol pan or anything vital.
michael
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
Thats why I ordered "raw" steel TTI's, so I can swap out the 3 bolt flange with a ball/socket flange and if needed I could shorten the down tubes and 1" or so to draw the headers up in the chassis. Guess I'll plan on making the x pipe back to the mufflers, I'm gonna have to make the tailpipe too due to the rear exit aluminum tip I plan on using.
HemiMark
Well-Known Member
Didn't someone here (I think TinCup) use oval tubing for a little more clearance, clearance?
splittin hairs on a small block...if you were runnin big cubes/ big pipes (like a 528 Hemi) maybe....but otherwise that maybe 1/2" you save will be very expensive. Unfortunately elbows/tranitions /ect are very limited....use a TTi H or X and tuck it (custom) up tight
Yes, I used a piece of oval tubing in the center of my exhaust, but I took the cheap way out, I squashed a piece of round pipe. It's not hard, weld a end plate on the tube, then fill it with sand, than weld another plate on the other end. Find someone with a hydraulic press, set a stop to the thickness you want, I think mine are 1 3/4".
As for ride height, my Alterk and the trans pan are about 4 1/2" from the ground.
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