**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**

-
Waxed the POS. Looks pretty good.

I tweaked on the caltracs a bit more, seems to help it go straight when I smash on it.

Also messed with the carb a bit today..... Was board. I got it to Idle in P-N around 13.8-14.2 , in gear it idles 14.2-14.9 , the off idle drop to the 11's now are pretty much in the 13.4 - low 14's , smash the pedal and it is good to go at 12.8-13.0

I started off by checking the timing.... It was at 20* initial and 30* all in. So I bumped it to 24* initial and 34* all in. The Rich Idle Stink is pretty much gone! Going for about a 200 mile Cruise starting in about 2 hours. I will know more on how it acts after that.
 
Cool, i like what you did to the car. So did you reduce the IFR´s? If so, to what diameter? I´ve got the same problem with the idle, think the IFR´s are way too big. After completely removing the IAB´s it´s much better, but still not where i want it to be.

When will you hit the strip? :poke:

Michael
 
360duster said:
Cool, i like what you did to the car. So did you reduce the IFR´s? If so, to what diameter? I´ve got the same problem with the idle, think the IFR´s are way too big. After completely removing the IAB´s it´s much better, but still not where i want it to be.

When will you hit the strip? :poke:

Michael
Click to expand...

I have only messed with the adjustments the carb has so far. The tune is way better than it was but I will be looking for more. I have not changed or drilled and tapped anything as of yet. I ordered all the stuff but was waiting on the pin gauges. They showed up late Friday. Waiting on battery box and I ordered some pre drilled and tapped metering blocks from KMJ. I want to see what they look like before modifying mine. I may just use them instead.

Still waiting on my shifter. I have no neutral safety right now, the new shifter will take care of that and the Reverse lock out. Track will come after these little things are fixed which should be soon.
 
Lil Dart has come a long ways. Looking really good!
 
Called on the shifter and was told it should ship this week. Battery box is here, and the new 9" center section with 4:30 gears and spool is here. It is set up for 1350 U Joints like my other one. It has a Heavy Duty Aluminum Nodular Case, Bolt through design with huge billet caps. Still waiting on the new Metering blocks. I now have 3.50 3rd member and 4.30's. I have another Nodular 9" case and spool that I will set up with something different. I just need the gears, pinion support and pinion yoke to make that one complete.

I have measured under the car and I am contemplating making up the 9" for Ladder bars using Alston stuff. When I say get it to clear the stock gas tank I need to make up my own lower shock mounts to keep the shock tucked close to the rear axle. I got all the measurements and drawings already done on what I have to do.

View attachment phplORl4jPM.jpg

View attachment phpAbC9lAPM.jpg

View attachment phpHk9QYRPM.jpg
 
Well I decided to modify the KMJ Blocks. They come pre drilled 4-40 so I am glad I got the small stuff. I am working with a Holley 850 Double Pumper with the choke assembly removed but the tower still there.

The emulsion has 4 holes I blocked 2 & 4 and 1 & 3 have .028 Restrictors in them. All of the stock restrictors are .028 so I did not have to drill them. Stock uses 4 on each side / each bowl so 16 total. I now am only using 8 total, 4 front and 4 rear.

The Idle Feed Restrictors I moved from the top which is out of the fuel to the bottom in the fuel. The stock size restrictor was .039 , the bottom hole is the correct size to just tap to 6-32 without drilling them bigger. I put in .036 Restrictors by drilling out my brass plugs.

Front power valve will be a 6.5 to start the PVCR restrictors stock are .0635 so I left them alone for now. The back will be plugged.

Next I will take the carb apart and drill and tap the Idle Air Bleed Restrictors to a .075. The Main Air Bleeds will get a .028 after they are also drilled and tapped.

The Pump Shot in front will be a 50 , rear a 30 and I will start off with #40 nozzle style pump squirters. Most likely I will replace the cams to Pink to start. We shall see.

Notice the glasses and magnifying glass. These are the smallest holes I have ever drilled! I used trans assembly gooop for lubrication. The shavings stick to it very well.

View attachment phpmPYB9DPM.jpg

View attachment phpqQNfNuPM.jpg
 
HOTMOPR said:
shoulda just bought some quick fuel blocks they come with all that shizz..
Click to expand...

Not true you would still need the brass plugs and have to modify them for correct sizing and also block the emulsion ports off that do not need to be used. There is no performance difference between a fancy block or stock modified blocks. Read the carb gurus thread I posted. He says they are a waste of $$.

The one guy basically took his quick fuel block and modified it back to the earlier style emulsion air bleed and IFR package to obtain just about perfect a/f ratios all across he throttle band, idle cruise & WOT.

Only thing You have to do to these blocks for full adjustability is tap the IFR holes in the lower location. This would include the fancy billet block also. So they are actually the same with same mods needed but made out of different material is all.
 
I want to let everyone know I screwed up and moved the IFR down into the wrong hole. I followed the channel and even when looking at this diagram I still screwed up.

So if anyone is looking at my picture posted above DO NOT move it from #6 to #4 , The correct location is from #6 to #25.

Thanks Cracked for pointing this out. This would have been a tuning nightmare if it was not caught. Damn...........

View attachment 61klx5s.jpg
 
No sweat, happy to help out.

I want a ride in that thing as long as you don't kill me! LOL
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top