**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**

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What wheel tire combo are on the back of the car currently? Did you have to stretch the wheelwell to make it work, or did you just move the axle back?
 
Horseshoe49 said:
What wheel tire combo are on the back of the car currently? Did you have to stretch the wheelwell to make it work, or did you just move the axle back?
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On this one the rear is moved back probably 1/2" or so. Rear is shortened. Mini Tub. 15x12's with 4.25 back space. 325/50/15's Drag Radials , 315/60/15's will fit as well as 29x10.50wx15 Mickey Thompson Slicks.
 
Got it running today.... Had a few fuel leaks, nothing major just had to tighten down the fittings a bit at the filters and fuel log.

My idler arm was wasted so luckily Autozone had one..... Pitman arm is on its way out too. I knew I should have ordered all the parts and just replaced everything. The brakes are gravity bleeding. I will finish them up in the morning.

[ame]http://youtu.be/MlEnKyBSjv0[/ame]
 
mshred said:
Mad, I don't think anyone is knocking you dude...I was just busting your balls! LOL

If the street is your thing, aint nothing wrong with that. For me with a car like that it wouldn't be about impressing anyone by taking it to the track, but just get an idea of what it can do...I mean, aren't ya slightly curious?? Just a bit...?? LOL
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Of course I am curious.... That is why I am taking it to the track.... Lol! I think you guys are forgetting about all of the work I did to this car to get it where it is now..... It was a **** TON of work. I know because I did it all! Most on here don't do anything but type on a keyboard as you already know.

This thread was started to share ideas and to get others motivated to get out there an work on their own cars. It is amazing what a Dummy like me can accomplish.
 
4406 said:
What are you hoping it runs?



Ray
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Well, I am thinking it is heavy.... Probably 3400lbs or so. On motor after all the bugs are worked out. I am hoping for a 6.85 ish. On a small 200 hit of Juice...... 6.40 ? You never know til you run it. This is all 1/8th mile.

My buddy Pete knows how to tune chassis and NOS. So I am going to go eat a sandwich and he can put the tune on it! Lol
 
On a true 200 you should pick up more than .4

If you go 6.85-100, I bet on a 200 it should run 6.20ish- 107+

Just busting your balls because it seems the in thing to do. :)
 
crackedback said:
On a true 200 you should pick up more than .4

If you go 6.85-100, I bet on a 200 it should run 6.20ish- 107+

Just busting your balls because it seems the in thing to do. :)
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I messed with a few calculators. There is for sure more to be had. I will get the car weighed and start off right away with a log book to keep track of everything, tune, air, car changes etc.

I am wondering how the 4:30's will work... I don't have an 8" converter.... Lenny built me a 9.5" unit... It flashes around 4200 rpm off the bottle... I never tried the NOS out of the gate, Lenny was telling me it should go 4800-5000 on the bottle. He was dead on with off the bottle flash so I'm assuming he will be correct with the Bottle Rpm flash.
 
That thing sure sounds good! ! ! What rear wheels are those? Are they bead locks or just rim screws? I can't tell on my phone.
 
Ran into a couple problems.... 1st one is the brakes got blead but the pedal won't hold pressure. Rear was drum now 4 wheel disc. I found out that the stock distribution block wont work and it bleeds off the pressure once you let off the pedal. Fluid goes back to the master. The fix is to either gut the stock block of its built in residual valving or just get rid of it. I'll figure that out tomorrow.

Second issue is the steering box is loose, I need to inspect it further... Looks like the K Frame is flexing..... I hope it's not cracked....I'll weld it up and gusset it to make it stronger... The Pitman arm and tie rod ends will also be replaced. Lower ball joints are all good. Alignment is on hold until i fix these issues. Couple days is all it should take.
 
451Cuda said:
In case you didn't throw one on already

http://www.jegs.com/p/Wilwood/Wilwood-Rotary-Style-Proportioning-Valve/744516/10002/-1
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Yes I have that one in rear brake line after the line line loc.... Yes my line loc is in the rear line. This way I can use the brake pedal to put as much pressure on the front brakes as I need.... I've never had a line loc plumbed into the front that actually held the car.

This here should fix my issue......

Dr diff........A '73 and newer disc brake equipped Mopar came with a 1 piece combination valve. It included metering (hold off), as well as proportioning.

First, install a drum brake distribution block (NO proportioning or metering) in place of your stock proportioning valve.

If your rear brakes lock up before the front brakes, add an adjustable prop valve in the rear line.
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Horseshoe49 said:
I smell a custom front k-member and rack and pinion steering in your future.
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Possibly..... I would want to stay with the torsion bars though. Don't really want to convert this one over to Coil over front suspension...... The front end is already supported for it off the forward strut cage bars under the fender wells but.............

Next project after this one is all done is to install new gauges in the peak dash I have laying around. May as well put it to use.
 
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