**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**

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Mad Dart said:
Of course I am curious.... That is why I am taking it to the track.... Lol! I think you guys are forgetting about all of the work I did to this car to get it where it is now..... It was a **** TON of work. I know because I did it all! Most on here don't do anything but type on a keyboard as you already know.

This thread was started to share ideas and to get others motivated to get out there an work on their own cars. It is amazing what a Dummy like me can accomplish.
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Cool! I know in the past you had mentioned you weren't concerned with track times, but with all the work you have in it, I think it would be nice to see what it does.

And trust me I didn't forget all the **** you fixed...how can you when you see how many pages this thread is? lol

Be sure to share what it runs when you take it
 
Just ordered the new Pitman arm, tie rod ends and sleeves. All will be here by Tuesday.

Calling Dr. Diff for new Distribution block.
 
Mad Dart said:
On this one the rear is moved back probably 1/2" or so. Rear is shortened. Mini Tub. 15x12's with 4.25 back space. 325/50/15's Drag Radials , 315/60/15's will fit as well as 29x10.50wx15 Mickey Thompson Slicks.
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You have that rear end / tire stuff right where my Demon is. I have 315/60 MTs but haven't been able to get them to work as well as the 10.5W slicks. You will be shocked at the launch the first time you turn the trans braks loose at stall, so be against the headrests! Did you get the cage cert'd?

And you may have blown the sleeper looks thing. Nice job getting the crotch straps integrated with the bench seat.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=1714780749&d=1420085507
 
Mad Dart said:
Well, I am thinking it is heavy.... Probably 3400lbs or so. On motor after all the bugs are worked out. I am hoping for a 6.85 ish. On a small 200 hit of Juice...... 6.40 ? You never know til you run it. This is all 1/8th mile.

My buddy Pete knows how to tune chassis and NOS. So I am going to go eat a sandwich and he can put the tune on it! Lol
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My guess is 7.25/97 on the motor and 6.85 on the spray, maybe better. My fish with the pump gas 416 ran 7.20 at 98+ weighing 3150 with 3.91s. The 60 was 1.65 on 275/60 DRs on a prepped track with leafs and sh*tty shocks and a POS vert.

I don't follow the logic of the rear line lock, but when you get into the water box you'll see if it works. IMO the LL is to hold the car as the tires heat up before you blast out toward the line with the lock disengaged and the throttle mashed. Don't forget to get a pill that works when the LL is engaged and then another that kicks in when it is turned off. My MSD 7AL-3 has 3 pill slots which I have set LL (burnout), TB (launch), race. Then there is the timing retard for boost / juice which is separate.

The exhaust sounds great. Only thing I might change is to put a 8" cherry bomb and dumps on each side at the axle and run the rest of the ex back from the dump, so when the engine is loafing/idling all the flow goes straight back and when on the gas the back pressure of the rear exhaust forces the flow through the dumps. But that would add weight. Old Man Mopar posted a pic of his ride with that setup.
 
Wheels for the slicks are ordered along with the new Distribution block from Dr. Diff

I got gold 12 Point beadlock bolts. Easy to change colors on those to black if I don't like the gold.

I did more investigating on my current wheels. They are ODD BALL.... 15x11's with 4.25 back space. So I ended up ordering 15x10.5" with a 4" back space. The slicks have 1/4" more section width on each side so these should work well. I left some room for using 1/4" spacers if need be. I was told I would have them by Jan 15th or so.

View attachment SS_Pol_C1_Pol__27229.1408298107.1280.1280.jpg
 
airwoofer said:
My guess is 7.25/97 on the motor and 6.85 on the spray, maybe better. My fish with the pump gas 416 ran 7.20 at 98+ weighing 3150 with 3.91s. The 60 was 1.65 on 275/60 DRs on a prepped track with leafs and sh*tty shocks and a POS vert.

I don't follow the logic of the rear line lock, but when you get into the water box you'll see if it works. IMO the LL is to hold the car as the tires heat up before you blast out toward the line with the lock disengaged and the throttle mashed. Don't forget to get a pill that works when the LL is engaged and then another that kicks in when it is turned off. My MSD 7AL-3 has 3 pill slots which I have set LL (burnout), TB (launch), race. Then there is the timing retard for boost / juice which is separate.

The exhaust sounds great. Only thing I might change is to put a 8" cherry bomb and dumps on each side at the axle and run the rest of the ex back from the dump, so when the engine is loafing/idling all the flow goes straight back and when on the gas the back pressure of the rear exhaust forces the flow through the dumps. But that would add weight. Old Man Mopar posted a pic of his ride with that setup.
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I already have a 3 Step Revv installed along with a 3 Step Retard. All my electronics are in and installed. Not going to go after a new set up just yet.

The line lock will work without a doubt! Only difference on putting the solenoid in the rear line is it interrupts flow to the rear wheels so you can SMASH the brake pedal with your left foot as hard as you need to hold the car without engaging the rear brakes..... All my buddies have their cars like this and it works very well. Stick car.... You would be doing some fancy foot work. Lots of guys don't even use the line loc.... They just power brake it and let it fly.
 
OK, I see the logic now. I have to limit the revs with wet tires doing the burnout so not as much front holding power needed. I just get the tires good and smoky and release the switch and mash it to the race limiter for the show. May start to learn how to use the linelock to get in the beams with the TB as sometimes I redlight when it moves as the trans brake is applied and the car brakes are released.
 
Mad Dart said:
I already have a 3 Step Revv installed along with a 3 Step Retard. All my electronics are in and installed. Not going to go after a new set up just yet.

The line lock will work without a doubt! Only difference on putting the solenoid in the rear line is it interrupts flow to the rear wheels so you can SMASH the brake pedal with your left foot as hard as you need to hold the car without engaging the rear brakes..... All my buddies have their cars like this and it works very well. Stick car.... You would be doing some fancy foot work. Lots of guys don't even use the line loc.... They just power brake it and let it fly.
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That's how I plan to do the line lock too. Will have it on a dash mounted switch a long with 2 step and both activated by brake pedal, but only when the dash mounted switches are activated.
 
Fst73_410 said:
That's how I plan to do the line lock too. Will have it on a dash mounted switch a long with 2 step and both activated by brake pedal, but only when the dash mounted switches are activated.
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Either way it is done just remember to flip that switch back off. Mine activates both on the switch, LL and 2 Step Revv. If you forget to flip your switch and you are running down the track at 7K RPM then start to slow down by hitting the brakes...... That will be your wake up call! Your motor will sound like it is going to blow up and you will only have front brakes. Wreck city! LOL
 
Mad Dart said:
Either way it is done just remember to flip that switch back off. Mine activates both on the switch, LL and 2 Step Revv. If you forget to flip your switch and you are running down the track at 7K RPM then start to slow down by hitting the brakes...... That will be your wake up call! Your motor will sound like it is going to blow up and you will only have front brakes. Wreck city! LOL
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LOL, Yea I went through those situations in my head. Going to see how it turns out.
 
Second fuel pump LED notification works well. Turns second pump on at 3700 RPM. This is wired after the relay to the + side of the secondary fuel pump so I know for sure the pump is getting power.....

[ame]http://youtu.be/pTf_wK2OVpw[/ame]
 
Well, I got the tie rod ends and sleeves on Tuesday. They left out the Pitman arm and I was told I would have it on Wednesday. I call to see if it showed up at 3:00 and they tell me Oh nobody called you? It is on back order you will not get it for 3 more days....WTHeck..... So I called another local parts house right after I hung up with them. Part arrived this morning at 10:30am....... I went and got a refund on the other one and guess what? It was there for me to pick up! Lol...... I took the refund!

Tonight I will replace all the steering parts after dinner and inspect the steering box and gusset it most likely so it does not wiggle anymore.

The new distribution block was ordered on Monday.... Fedex says I will not get it until Saturday....:banghead:
 
As I sorta figured.... I got all the parts off except the Pitman arm. I used heat, PB Blaster and my air impact to try and get it off. After about 5 attempts the puller finally let loose and broke an ear off....... It is sleeping, drenched in PB Blaster, I will try again tomorrow after I squirt it a few more times with the PB.

I figure if I have to take the box off the car to get the pitman arm off in my press, the steering box just might get replaced. We shall see.

If anyone has any ideas on how to get it off don't hold your peace.........Speak TFU! haaaa
 
crackedback said:
A good puller will get it. Hit it with a 3lb sledge as well.
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I just ordered a hardened forged puller. It will be here at 11am tomorrow. I did BTF out of it with a 3lb sledge as well with tension on the POS puller... It just flexed way too much until it brokededdddd! Lol
 
I got the POS off. Still was a PITA. It finally gave with a CRACKKKKK, Lol
Autozone tool loaning helped me out and it did not cost me a penny! This is their heavy duty pitman arm puller. No flexing at all.

All steering parts are on. I left the outer tie rod end on the drivers side disconnected. It will be easier to change out the brake distribution block this way when it gets here.

View attachment IMG_7305.jpg
 
ProSport said:
Sounds great! How many cubes? What mufflers? X-pipe?

Very nice car.
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Thanks,

410 CI, only 9:1 compression, solid roller cam.

Dynomax race bullets, home made tweek chamber in place of X pipe.

All info your asking is a couple pages back fully documented with all pictures and parts used.
 
Mad Dart said:
Well I decided to modify the KMJ Blocks. They come pre drilled 4-40 so I am glad I got the small stuff. I am working with a Holley 850 Double Pumper with the choke assembly removed but the tower still there.

The emulsion has 4 holes I blocked 2 & 4 and 1 & 3 have .028 Restrictors in them. All of the stock restrictors are .028 so I did not have to drill them. Stock uses 4 on each side / each bowl so 16 total. I now am only using 8 total, 4 front and 4 rear.

The Idle Feed Restrictors I moved from the top which is out of the fuel to the bottom in the fuel. The stock size restrictor was .039 , the bottom hole is the correct size to just tap to 6-32 without drilling them bigger. I put in .036 Restrictors by drilling out my brass plugs.

Front power valve will be a 6.5 to start the PVCR restrictors stock are .0635 so I left them alone for now. The back will be plugged.

Next I will take the carb apart and drill and tap the Idle Air Bleed Restrictors to a .075. The Main Air Bleeds will get a .028 after they are also drilled and tapped.

The Pump Shot in front will be a 50 , rear a 30 and I will start off with #40 nozzle style pump squirters. Most likely I will replace the cams to Pink to start. We shall see.

Notice the glasses and magnifying glass. These are the smallest holes I have ever drilled! I used trans assembly gooop for lubrication. The shavings stick to it very well.

View attachment 1714726695

View attachment 1714726696
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Just curious, what was your final tune? Or are you still in the process.
 
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