**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**

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I got the wheels today. The back side of them are all marked and ready to drill for the screws. I ordered 12 pt beadlock bolts and they gave me regular ones. I did not notice until I got home. When I called them they apologized and are overnighting me the correct ones. They are really nice people over there at Champion Wheel. The owner took me on a tour of the shop. I highly recommend them for your next wheel purchase. They are affordable and great customer service.

Car is weighed and it is heavy like I thought. 3500lbs exactly. Crackedback wins a free trip to Lego Land! You were on to the penny!

New springs are ordered and they will be here tomorrow. Wheels are back off the car so the brake issue can be addressed at the same time as the suspension. After the shocks are back on the car the suspension will get a base tune back on the scales.
 
airwoofer said:
Is that 3500# with your weight or do you add to that? Full fuel and juice?
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Lol.... That is the car full of everything except me. 15 Gal of fuel, full NOS Bottle and NOS Fuel Cell.

This is a multi purpose car. I did not try to shave any weight at all.
 
Im not familiar with the scamps but on my 69 im not real sure where you could save much weight other than the interior and opting for fiberglass body parts. Ill be curious to see how much my car weighs in at now, im running full interior and all steel body too.
 
junior636 said:
Im not familiar with the scamps but on my 69 im not real sure where you could save much weight other than the interior and opting for fiberglass body parts. Ill be curious to see how much my car weighs in at now, im running full interior and all steel body too.
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True... Race Rotors....Seats, Heater box. Dash assembly, all cables, switches etc, Head liner, Carpet, Door panels. After that Fiberglass body panels! Cut out the inner fender wells in the engine bay?. Lexan Glass? Steering column, "Rod and Wheel only" No exhaust......Smaller fuel cell?

Race car sure....Mulit purpose Street car no point! Lol
 
That seems super heavy, about 500 pounds heavier than any A-body I've ever owned. My big block Dart was all steel with a 500" big block and full interior, it weighed 3000 without me in it.
It was a ladder bar though with plastic racing seats, but other than that it was fairly stock.
 
ProSport said:
That seems super heavy, about 500 pounds heavier than any A-body I've ever owned. My big block Dart was all steel with a 500" big block and full interior, it weighed 3000 without me in it.
It was a ladder bar though with plastic racing seats, but other than that it was fairly stock.
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So your car weighed 2800lbs or so? That's the lightest dart in the world with a big block & not on a diet. That's all I got to say about that.
 
My '67 fastback was 2920 with 440/727. I weighed about 180 at the time so 3100 race weight. Gutted interior, no cage, lowback poly seats, B&M Pro Stick. I later added 'glass body parts but never got around to weighing it with them, I would assume in the 2650 to 2700 range as a wild guess. The coupe I just bought will probably be lighter by at least hundred pounds even with a cage once I'm done.

I can't build a heavy car...OCD kicks in and I can't sleep at night if anything remains in the car that's unnecessary.
 
451Cuda said:
My '67 fastback was 2920 with 440/727. I weighed about 180 at the time so 3100 race weight. Gutted interior, no cage, lowback poly seats, B&M Pro Stick. I later added 'glass body parts but never got around to weighing it with them, I would assume in the 2650 to 2700 range as a wild guess. The coupe I just bought will probably be lighter by at least hundred pounds even with a cage once I'm done.

I can't build a heavy car...OCD kicks in and I can't sleep at night if anything remains in the car that's unnecessary.
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Full race car yes I would Cut it & Gut it to the Maxx!
 
Mad Dart said:
So your car weighed 2800lbs or so? That's the lightest dart in the world with a big block & not on a diet. That's all I got to say about that.
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You read it wrong, it was 3000# 'without' me in it. I shouldn't say it was all steel, it had an AAR glass bolt on hood but it was high quality, weighed almost as much as a steel hood.

You have a back seat, big stereo, stock front seats I think, etc etc. So you're gonna be on the heavy side, I just thought 3500# without a driver seemed like B-body territory lol.
Your car is sweet, I wouldn't gut it either, at least not til you get the go-fast bug!
 
Mad Dart said:
Full race car yes I would Cut it & Gut it to the Maxx!
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Bolt on fiberglass, spartan interior, and mini tubs is very street in my eyes. I've considered doing a straight and nicely painted all steel car in the past, but realized it would drive me nuts knowing all that weight is on the car purely for vanity's sake. I'm definitely not a show car type so a little bit of wave and misalignment on the epoxy primed body doesn't bother me one bit.

Full race to me is when it's built with CM tube to SFI spec and ultra light strut front end.
 
ProSport said:
You read it wrong, it was 3000# 'without' me in it. I shouldn't say it was all steel, it had an AAR glass bolt on hood but it was high quality, weighed almost as much as a steel hood.

You have a back seat, big stereo, stock front seats I think, etc etc. So you're gonna be on the heavy side, I just thought 3500# without a driver seemed like B-body territory lol.
Your car is sweet, I wouldn't gut it either, at least not til you get the go-fast bug!
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This car will never be gutted..... My next one will be a full Race Car. Back Half & Light as it can get..... That is a way's down the road though. I did find a Duster that is ready and the guy does amazing work. Makes my work look like a 5 year old did it. It is back halved already. Custom aluminum work, dash, K Frame etc and set up for a big block. Price is 10K as a roller. I think I could get it for $7500

On this one I figure I will just hit it with more Juice until the trans blows up. Then the 727 I have ready will get bolted in to take its place. Lol
 
Returning the MT Slicks....... Their measurements are off quite a bit. They stand 30 3/4 Tall and the section width is 14" with 12lbs in them.....Height says 29.60 and 13.60 Section width. They are too tall for the car to sit where I want it. Explained that to Summit and they sent me free return shipping labels, new ones are on the way.

Going with Hoosier 28x10x15's instead #18150
 
Mad Dart said:
Returning the MT Slicks....... Their measurements are off quite a bit. They stand 30 3/4 Tall and the section width is 14" with 12lbs in them.....Height says 29.60 and 13.60 Section width. They are too tall for the car to sit where I want it. Explained that to Summit and they sent me free return shipping labels, new ones are on the way.

Going with Hoosier 28x10x15's instead #18150
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Did they measure on a 10 or 12" wheel.

Section width will usually increase about .4" for every 1" wider rim. Measured on a 10" and putting on a 12", will usually add about .8" to section width.

Can't help you on the height, that's just a bit off.
 
crackedback said:
Did they measure on a 10 or 12" wheel.

Section width will usually increase about .4" for every 1" wider rim. Measured on a 10" and putting on a 12", will usually add about .8" to section width.

Can't help you on the height, that's just a bit off.
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They measured on a 10"... Mine are 10"
Plus the beadlock. The tire is shaped totally different then
the drag radials. The drag radials float around in there with plenty
if room.. I thought a little more section width 13.2 to 13.6 would be
cake... I was wrong! Lol
 
Finally got the brakes bled correctly. No need to use a residual valve in the line. I had to do just like Cass said. I bled all the top bleeders on the rear brakes first... Pedal still sucked. Unbolted the calipers and slid them around on the rotor and zip tied them up so they would not move as the BOTTOM bleeders were now on the top...... Holy bageebers batman we had an air show!
The pedal was totally different, we had a lot of pedal. Moved onto the fronts and after those were done we had MEGA pedal! Tires on all 4 corners went on after that.

I replaced the springs in the rear with 150's and ran the spanner up 1" on each side where we were before. Car sat perfect in the sweet zone of the shocks..... we then rolled the car up on the scales and Pete quickly went to work doing a base tune on the suspension "Yes I was in the car with my Helmet, Jacket etc.... Done! Car is ready for alignment this time for sure.

While Pete was here we did some measuring for the tires. He said the Hoosier's are no good and lets see if we can get a set of MT's to fit. After a few minutes and searching on the web. He came up with MT 3055's "28x10.5x15" that should fit no problem. I called summit and changed the exchange for the MT's instead of the Hoosier's.

We went to lunch, Pete left. I fired the car up and rolled it out on the driveway. The car has not seen daylight in 90 days or so and needs a bath bad!

[ame]http://youtu.be/wtfjf-B23wI[/ame]

View attachment IMG_7319.jpg

View attachment IMG_7318.jpg
 
Sounds good for a 318 with a 340 cam! :)

Be cool to see it rolling again!
 
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