74 power wagon dream truck...

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If I can get the cab indoors and paint before serious weather starts I can hopefully over the winter get the transmission rebuilt in the engine pretty much put together... In the early spring I'd like to finish out the cab windows dash heating cooling so forth.. next summer get the bed and front clip painted and installed...
Anything I'm not able to tackle by the end of next summer I should be able to refine over the next winter...
That would still put me at just about 2 years for a complete frame off restoration done vastly by myself..
 
My last frame off took me 2 years on my Willys.
I also hit motivation issues on that build.
I got to the point I had to force myself to work on it sometimes, even it it was only sand-blasting a hand-full of bolts, at least something was getting done.
I did everything on the build, but the machine work on the engine block.

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sireland67 said:
My last frame off took me 2 years on my Willys.
I also hit motivation issues on that build.
I got to the point I had to force myself to work on it sometimes, even it it was only sand-blasting a hand-full of bolts, at least something was getting done.
I did everything on the build, but the machine work on the engine block.

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What year?? My best friend has a 46 and one of my customers as well...
 
Its kinda a Johnny Cash jeep, built out of many Jeep years, but it is titled as a 1948.
 
Do or die time today...
I broke out my Harbor Freight orbital sander with some hundred grit pads and went to town on the roof. I didn't reveal that I'm extremely happy I'm doing this myself because I know nobody would have took it down to bare metal and revealed some of the surface for a spots in the areas where the clearance lights are... I took 2 hours of hard work and a 2-hour nap in my chair afterwards to get it done LOL... Tomorrow I'm hoping to patch those holes and work on the underneath of the top window lip or the Chrome strip is. Kind of underneath the gutter.. now off to bbq some burgers and then guitar practice (Lord save my wife's ear's...)
 
Crap.. forgot pictures...
The green. Was very thick.. I tried to stop at the yellow but that was very thin..
Primer..??.. the green that is left in the sanded area is just a fart away from being into the yellow and the yellow is just a fart from the metal. There is what seems like a tick of filler under the yellow some small areas..
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well today was filling the whole day but first I wanted to map out the holes so if I wanted to put the correct lights on I wouldn't be trying to punch through the old holes or partially...
 
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Okay so I watch this you boob video with this guy patches holes that you can't get to the back of with a little piece of metal held with a screw in the center and solder.. I did kind of the same cut little pieces of metal clean them up flatten them and held them up with a piece of welding wire through a small pinhole I drilled. Well after much much struggle and little success I did get two of them done that way... With five more to go I needed to think of something a little bit easier. So I did see my JB weld laying on the bench and thought maybe if I take a cotton swab and sweep a little on the underside and pull this up against it and puddle it in...
That seem to have worked...
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Still going to be a good couple of weeks before I can get back to work on this, but the goal is to still get the cab and doors in paint before winter...
We'll see...
 
sireland67 said:
My last frame off took me 2 years on my Willys.
I also hit motivation issues on that build.
I got to the point I had to force myself to work on it sometimes, even it it was only sand-blasting a hand-full of bolts, at least something was getting done.
I did everything on the build, but the machine work on the engine block.

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Those are a lot of fun. I had a 50 a long time ago. It would IDLE over a 12" curb and that's no joke. I drove the crap outta that thing.
 
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RustyRatRod said:
Those are a lot of fun. I had a 50 a long time ago. It would IDLE over a 12" curb and that's no joke. I drove the crap outta that thing.
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Mine does pretty good, but it also has 5.38 gears and richmand lockers front and rear.
I hate the front locker, you cannot steer it locked clear down in 4x4 it will jerk the wheel right out of your hand, but its a beast.
When I first put it together I put swamper boggers on it. Those new bias belt tires beat the tie rod end out of the drag link in 11 miles.

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sireland67 said:
Mine does pretty good, but it also has 5.38 gears and richmand lockers front and rear.
I hate the front locker, you cannot steer it locked clear down in 4x4 it will jerk the wheel right out of your hand, but its a beast.
When I first put it together I put swamper boggers on it. Those new bias belt tires beat the tie rod end out of the drag link in 11 miles.

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Real simple on the front. Here's how you do it. Put a spool in it. Then put manual lockout hubs on it. Leave one engaged all the time. When you do off road and get in a pinch and need that 4th wheel, get out and lock the hub.
 
I have warn hubs, and just lock one in, its a beast in low lock.
 
Part of the reason well the very reason I can't work on the truck right now cuz I'm over here in Florida roughing it...
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I got the stroker kit off to the machine shop to get assembly last week..
I popped back in on the old hippie dude car/truck painter to see if any progress was going on on the cars and truck he had going on the last time I was there... I was surprised to see the truck painted and another car gone and another car in... This gave me a better feeling about the operation then the purgatory it seemed to look like on my first visit... Typical painter stuff though he said come back in 3 weeks and I came back in four and he said I need another week to possibly get you in and when I called last Friday he said he needed yet another one lol... we'll see..
I've only had one day off in the last couple of weeks so no time to work on the truck, but getting a budget worked up..:thumbsup:..
 
Dropped cab and doors off for bodywork and paint today... We'll see how long this will take..:rolleyes:...
 
You can do an electric selectable locker in the front, I went with an Eaton E locker on my Dana 60. Lock and unlock on the fly. Works excellent.

by the way, the name for my truck is Chocolate Milk. I’ll have a graphic made for it. Detonation issues and I blew a head gasket. LOL

Next week I’m pulling the stroker motor out of my dart, and putting it in my truck.

truck pulls are in 2 weeks, if I can have a hitch made in time, I’ll be pullin that Sonofabitch.

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mopardude318 said:
You can do an electric selectable locker in the front, I went with an Eaton E locker on my Dana 60. Lock and unlock on the fly. Works excellent.

by the way, the name for my truck is Chocolate Milk. I’ll have a graphic made for it. Detonation issues and I blew a head gasket. LOL

Next week I’m pulling the stroker motor out of my dart, and putting it in my truck.

truck pulls are in 2 weeks, if I can have a hitch made in time, I’ll be pullin that Sonofabitch.

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Damn my notice!! No indication of this post..:mob:...
Looking good:thumbsup:...
 
Wednesday I dropped off the cowl and valance at sandblasting.. I picked them up today and took them to the paint shop and I was happy to see the cab sanded .
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Cleaned up the garage a little and started the transmission rebuild... I already knew the reverse band was broke.. pretty much that's all that looks bad, but it will get a full rebuild with heavy duty kit and a stage 2 Transco shift kit..
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The dirt cheap and DEAD reliable 4x4 front axle is this. Put a spool in it. Put manual locking hubs on it. If you go offroad, Lock one. If you get in some really tough spots, lock both.
 
The transmission came apart in 20 minutes or so.. I'm always shocked when someone goes through all the work of taking one of these heavy buggers out (and worse back in) and then pay big bucks for someone to do the easy part...:realcrazy:....
 
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