74 power wagon dream truck...

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Got a few things done today...
I took very careful care to make sure I didn't repop the fender wall to frame mat's backwards.... And I did..:BangHead:...
When I get a piece of mat it's just enough to do all three... RATS.. Got to buy more.
I did get the driver's side done (the hard one) and the small one under the radiator..
Found some windshield washer squirter's and hose in my hours.. installed and tested those..
Also moved the engine a 1/4 inch to the driver's side to make a little more passenger side clearance for the headers...
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Phreakish said:
Man, that washer and coolant bottle really stand out next to all the clean new parts :poke:
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Somewhere out in the shed I know I have another overflow bottle and I'm not sure about the windshield washer bottle but I know those I think they repop... I was underneath the cab and all my eyes could see was the four rusty nuts holding the bench seat down LOL...
I've had to start letting go of the perfect everything... At some point it's just a truck to drive... As time goes by I'll be able to find nicer water bottles and they're just three screws each up front and on top...
 
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A Ford dealership I worked at in the late 80's had a cartoon at the technician's parts counter. Basically, a $10,000 car was built with $42,000 worth of dealership priced parts.

If you try to replace every stock functional part with spiffy new (pronounced "shiny") parts, you at least triple the cost of your project (without gaining any additional functionality). I must agree with your decision to reuse stock parts that work, but may not pass concours-restoration judging.
 
I just did a quick search, and people recommend denture cleaning tablets in hot water and gravel to clean washer and radiator bottles.
I bet a bucket full of gravel and hot water with some denture tabs dropped in, then swish the bottles around in there, then repeat with gravel inside, would yeild some good looking parts.

I'm all for reusing serviceable parts! But there's definitely something nice about shine.

Rusty bolts or nuts can be dunked in rust converter for a bit and then oiled prior to install. Should keep the rust away for a while, and turns the iron oxide into either iron Phosphate or zinc/mag Phosphate.

Just a couple suggestions if you get bored. I know cleaning isn't anyone's favorite parts of the project! LOL. There's also nothing that says you have to have it all perfect. **** gets used and will wear as a result. Function and reliability is really all that matters.
 
Phreakish said:
I just did a quick search, and people recommend denture cleaning tablets in hot water and gravel to clean washer and radiator bottles.
I bet a bucket full of gravel and hot water with some denture tabs dropped in, then swish the bottles around in there, then repeat with gravel inside, would yeild some good looking parts.

I'm all for reusing serviceable parts! But there's definitely something nice about shine.

Rusty bolts or nuts can be dunked in rust converter for a bit and then oiled prior to install. Should keep the rust away for a while, and turns the iron oxide into either iron Phosphate or zinc/mag Phosphate.

Just a couple suggestions if you get bored. I know cleaning isn't anyone's favorite parts of the project! LOL. There's also nothing that says you have to have it all perfect. **** gets used and will wear as a result. Function and reliability is really all that matters.
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Well I've got to go get a list of parts tomorrow and I've shamed myself into getting new seat nuts LOL...
Well I don't dispute the dental tablets and gravel I'm highly optimistic that it's going to make 50 years of yellowing and heat distortion go away.... I'll just keep my eyes open at the swap meets and stuff and upgrade as I can.... If you follow the thread along it's too late I've bought grade 8 bolts with grade 8 washers grade 8 lock washers and grade 8 nylock nuts for almost everything... LOL...
 
Its the plastic in the over-flow bottles and washer jugs that make them look dirty.
The heat from the engine turns them brown, there is no good way to clean them that I have found.
 
Also on your rear drive-line issue, why did you leave the factory lift blocks out?
Every lift kit I have ever put in a "W" series truck you leave them in.
 
You'd be amazed by what a scuff with sandpaper will do for the yellowing plastic parts.
 
sireland67 said:
Its the plastic in the over-flow bottles and washer jugs that make them look dirty.
The heat from the engine turns them brown, there is no good way to clean them that I have found.
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That's true of most clear or translucent plastics. But the yellowing can look fine if all the rest of the dirt, stains, and grease are washed away IMHO.
 
Phreakish said:
That's true of most clear or translucent plastics. But the yellowing can look fine if all the rest of the dirt, stains, and grease are washed away IMHO.
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As far as nuts and bolts go I would guesstimate in the 95% new.. I find it much easier to talk about what I reused as opposed to what's new it's a lot easier and a lot less that way...
 
j par said:
As far as nuts and bolts go I would guesstimate in the 95% new.. I find it much easier to talk about what I reused as opposed to what's new it's a lot easier and a lot less that way...
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I've noticed! It's awesome. It'll make it a lot nicer to work on when you need to do maintenance too.
 
sireland67 said:
Also on your rear drive-line issue, why did you leave the factory lift blocks out?
Every lift kit I have ever put in a "W" series truck you leave them in.
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The lift kit that I got was all in the springs and the u-bolts provide were only long enough to accommodate the springs only.... It's correct it would be way jacked up in the back if I did that anyways...
I'm going to buy an angle finder tomorrow and it was my understanding that I was to use the wedges to angle it up towards the sky and now I took them out and it's flat or factory. I'm starting to think that I might have to put them in the other way but again I'm going to buy an angle finder tomorrow and figure that out but it would help even more...
 
j par said:
The lift kit that I got was all in the springs and the u-bolts provide were only long enough to accommodate the springs only.... It's correct it would be way jacked up in the back if I did that anyways...
I'm going to buy an angle finder tomorrow and it was my understanding that I was to use the wedges to angle it up towards the sky and now I took them out and it's flat or factory. I'm starting to think that I might have to put them in the other way but again I'm going to buy an angle finder tomorrow and figure that out but it would help even more...
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I would double check with RC, because something is not right with that rear lift.
Keep in mind alot of other trucks, will bolt in but the little details are different.
My guess is they gave you a chevy rear kit for the truck, seeing how much arch is in the spring.
 
sireland67 said:
I would double check with RC, because something is not right with that rear lift.
Keep in mind alot of other trucks, will bolt in but the little details are different.
My guess is they gave you a chevy rear kit for the truck, seeing how much arch is in the spring.
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Thanks, I bought a 6" skyjunker kit years ago and it used the factory block.
Damn near every part broke but the springs.
 
j par said:
Never know I may have to lock in the front hubs and put it in four wheel low to pull a heavy old rusty Ford out of a ditch or something... LOL..:poke:...
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Easy boy. lol
 
I wish I had your sticktoitiveness, man I lose motivation so quickly. BUT I'm better than I was a year ago, so that's progress.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I wish I had your sticktoitiveness, man I lose motivation so quickly. BUT I'm better than I was a year ago, so that's progress.
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When I bought the truck and tried to convince my wife it was going to be a three four year project.. well it took a minute to get her to stop laughing...
She knows when it comes to this stuff I'm like a dog with a bone...
As you know I've been tried to apply this attitude with my guitar playing and just got done with my half hour of practice that I do everyday since July 6th of last year... (I still suck...)
 
sireland67 said:
Thanks, I bought a 6" skyjunker kit years ago and it used the factory block.
Damn near every part broke but the springs.
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I didn't want to go 6 in because I knew it would start cause much less simplicity..
I have a big enough project as it is LOL...
Also I'm trying to build more of a usable truck than not...
 
j par I have been watching and admiring your truck build for awhile. Nice work! When it comes to suspension one person I would consult with is Craig "Radio" Wolka. He use to work for Carli Suspension and owns a '74 Dodge 3/4 ton I believe. Last time I talked to customer service at Carli I asked about Radio and they said he left and now is working in Spokane, WA. They should give you his contact info.

I use own a '78 Power Wagon and one the best mods I did to that truck ws bolting on a factory step bumper from a '92 3/4 ton diesel. Made working on my truck a lot easier. Keep up the good work.
 
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