Yes just back braced and 1350 yolk. It’s a factory original 3.23 suregrip afaik.What have you done to keep the 8 3/4 alive behind your motor? Is it just back braced? I’m trying to decide if I need to trade up for a Dana 60.
Not sure it has the steel stator but it was on the pricier side. LolIs this their pricier steel stator converter? I’ve heard and seen some very good results with those!
Buy this one from me! I’m just not in the mood to drop the trans and swap out the converter anytime soon.I hope you get to try it out so I can see your results without having to buy my own first! lol
They’re supposed to couple really well. I think you’d see a mph gain even in the 8th
You're going with a circle D converter? I contacted them Last year and they said they won't do any mopar converters. Hmm.In case any of you Turbsky dudes are interested.
[FOR SALE] - PTC 727 9.5” High HP Converter
It’s one a buddy of mine had made several years ago by Circle-D, used briefly in his turbo Dakota and has been sitting on a shelf since.You're going with a circle D converter? I contacted them Last year and they said they won't do any mopar converters. Hmm.
Damn, got my hopes up. LolIt’s one a buddy of mine had made several years ago by Circle-D, used briefly in his turbo Dakota and has been sitting on a shelf since.
Rainy day project. Thinking about retrofitting the factory dash with custom gauges, pulling data off the Megasquirt CANBUS. This is my proof of concept using a small embedded board with CAN transceiver and a programmable HMI display.
View attachment 1716297074
It’s a 3.5” model from Nextion. Their editor software is easy to use for designing your display layout.That's awesome. What are you using for the HMI?
I have the alum dual master cylinder with the larger bore. I think I bought it for a Dakota truck application but it’s the common one everyone uses. I don’t recall that bleeding those brakes was any trouble. I also have a proportioning valve for the rears.I didn’t think I should bump your old thread, but I was looking through it and I believe I’m running the same rear brakes as you. Did you keep the disc/drum master cylinder? Any trouble bleeding the rears?
Thank you, I’ll give that one a try. The instructions that came with the brakes say they need to be bled off the car, but the orientation puts the bleeder right at the top where it should be so I didn’t understand why. I’ve bled my system 10 times and the pedal still feels spongy until I pump them a bit. Also running a proportioning valve.I have the alum dual master cylinder with the larger bore. I think I bought it for a Dakota truck application but it’s the common one everyone uses. I don’t recall that bleeding those brakes was any trouble. I also have a proportioning valve for the rears.
My pedal was really spongy with this setup until I put the bigger discs on the front. Probably too big of a bore on the MC with the smaller discs I had on it previously.Thank you, I’ll give that one a try. The instructions that came with the brakes say they need to be bled off the car, but the orientation puts the bleeder right at the top where it should be so I didn’t understand why. I’ve bled my system 10 times and the pedal still feels spongy until I pump them a bit. Also running a proportioning valve.
Yeah I bled my system a bunch of times thinking it was air. But the fluid always seemed to be bubble free every time.I have KH discs up front. The braking power seems okay, but 2x the travel since swapping to disc in the rear. The fact that the pedal firms up so much when pumping makes me think there is still air in the system.
Same. Okay well I’m glad to hear you had similar results. I’ll see how the Dakota master works out. Thank you!Yeah I bled my system a bunch of times thinking it was air. But the fluid always seemed to be bubble free every time.