8&3/4 axle fitment problem

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Rapid Robert

Rapid Robert

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I cannot get the axle (tried the dr side) to slide all the way into the housing (~3/8 or so). its an A body confirmed by Moser A body housing, Dr diff axles but I tried some SBP 8&3/4 axles & same thing. it sounds like the end is hitting something solid in the pumpkin, it is a 5:57 welded spider chunk in the stock car. I did shine a light in & I can see what appears to be a solid round area with maybe a small hole in the center. thank you for your time. RR
 
I think that might still have the thrust block in it which would cause that... not sure if open diffs had them..
www.forabodiesonly.com

Thrust block removal? (pics)

I have bought new axles for my 8 3/4 rear end and have seen stories that you have to remove the thrust block out of the carrier in order for the green bearings can be used. They are Yukon axles with the bearings and 3" studs already installed. Now some say you don't have to remove the thrust...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com
 
Yup. I bet the thrust block is still there. You need to remove it.
 
Open rear ends still have a thrust block if not you could not adjust axle end play with stock axles. If you have Dr Diff axles with green style bearings it should not hit.
I wonder since it is welded if they welded the center pin offset or got some weld in there? You may end up cutting the 3/8 off of the axle splines?
 
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I ended up with a pair of 8 3/4 axles with green bearings on them in a big parts swap and they had been cut down about 3/16ths of an inch on each side - made them useless to me since I always use tapered roller bearings. It sounds like you are not the first to have this problem...
 
Rapid Robert said:
I did shine a light in & I can see what appears to be a solid round area with maybe a small hole in the center. thank you for your time
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You described the thrust block exactly.

If you have taper bearings you must have it.

If you have green bearings you don't need it but it should not interfere.

Are the brake backing plates on?

Measure the axles and post here.

Press the bearing retainer toward the spline end and measure from the inside of the retainer to the end of the splines
 
tapered bearings/plates on & I will measure ^^^. If I tried an axle on the pass side & same issue would that confirm either that both sides are bent or still a problem with the axle?. thanks guys I will get after it & holler back. RR EDIT I did have a shop press everything on the axles, could they have pressed em on too far or not far enough
 
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Can't go too far, not far enough would give extra room, not less. And not be good.

I doubt your housing is bent.

What is the flange to flange measurement of the housing.
 
pressed the retainer to cover the tapered bearing & got 25.75" from flat retainer out to the spline end. OAL 52 & 5/8" (iirc), Moser measured it & said it was stock A body width. I did try an A body SBP (if that makes a difference) 8&3/4 axle & it wont even go in all the way. RR
 
Sounds just like a thrust block is in there.
 
OK so the pumpkin needs to come out... I sure wish I hadn't jumped the gun & partially filled it with lube! can I easily find/pull the block?
 
Rapid Robert said:
pressed the retainer to cover the tapered bearing & got 25.75" from flat retainer out to the spline end. OAL 52 & 5/8" (iirc), Moser measured it & said it was stock A body width
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Those numbers are spot on for what I get. On OEM parts

Looks like it's pumpkin time.

I have heard of the button coming out and getting logged in sideways etc.

Good luck to you
 
Rapid Robert said:
OK so the pumpkin needs to come out... I sure wish I hadn't jumped the gun & partially filled it with lube! can I easily find/pull the block
Click to expand...
It's on the pass side of the center section but it will not drain. Get a pump and suck it out or just go get a big container and some large dog puddle pads to catch the dribbles
 
Pardon the delay, internet went out (gotta love spectrum!). Dana I will get one of those pumps, thank you for the good advice. yes it's pumpkin time no way around it. RR
 
Iirc race applications use really thin oil to reduce drag. Maybe even trans fluid.

BUT DO NOT QUOTE ME.
 
At the drag strip, a lot of racers, Especially Q16 cars. Use 10 wt hydraulic oil. Ypu would be surprised how easily it pushes by yourself.
 
One of my old customers loved the 75W-90 synthetic when it came out. He said it ran 20° cooler in his NASCAR modified. He won several features on the tour.
 
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