8.8 swap

-
photorep said:
When cutting and welding the axle tube, is it best to remove all the internals from the differential or can they be left in place?
Click to expand...


Remove internals and give the housing a real good cleaning when done so metal shavings and/or weld splatter doesn't destroy bearings and races.
 
so i found this post not to long ago. i have read through it but may have missed somethings. let me start here. i have a 65 dart. it has a 8 3/4 in it now. been wanting to update it to discs, bbp, posi. i have been doing some thinking and i fill this is a better route in the long run and cheaper then my 8 3/4. how long is the 8.8 housing once you cut the drivers side or maybe someone knows how much wided is it the a A body 8 3/4... and last is this a dumb idea?
 
Out of an explorer it is 59 1/2" full length and 56 1/2" cut length... is this a dumb idea? Well, that is totally your call on what you want to do. I went from a 7 1/4 rear, so it was a great idea for me. If I had an 8 3/4, I probably would have worked with that even though it is much more expensive.
 
I have read through every page in here and the only question I have at this time is how do I know whether the rear end is open or posi or what? I know there is a marking on the drivers door about the rear end but I do not know what I am looking for.
 
There is also a mark on a tag on one of the cover bolts. There are charts online, easy to find with google.
 
Right - the Phord axle tags are great, and easy to read. If I recall, the first characters (EDIT: on the bottom row of the tag) are the gear ratios - example - 3L73 means 3.73:1 ratio with a Locking diff. Without the locker, it's more like 3 73 with a space between the 3 and the 73.

Good stuff.

Clair
 
jhdeval said:
I have read through every page in here and the only question I have at this time is how do I know whether the rear end is open or posi or what? I know there is a marking on the drivers door about the rear end but I do not know what I am looking for.
Click to expand...

The Door Sticker also states what type of rear axle is in the car.

41= Open 8.8 3.27 ratio
42= Open 8.8 4.10 ratio
43= Open 8.8 3.08 ratio
44= Open 8.8 3.73 ratio
45= Open 8.8 3.55 ratio
46= Open 8.8 3.73 ratio
D1 = Limited Slip 8.8 3.27
D2 = Limited Slip 8.8 4.10
D5 = Limited Slip 8.8 3.55
L73 = Limited Slip 8.8 3.73

The limited slip 3.73 is the most common.


Here's the Sticker

And explanation:

Here is what each of the items are (corresponding numbers):

1. Exterior Paint Code
2. Region Code
3. Domestic SpeciaOrder Code
4. Wheelbase Code
5. Brake Code
6. Interior Trim Code
7. Tape/Paint Pinstripe Code
8. Radio Code
9. Axle Code
10. Transmission Code
11. Spring Code
 

Attachments

  • doorlabel.jpg
    47.7 KB · Views: 813
If you notice on the cover tag it says 3L73 that translates to 3.73 Limited Slip, the L stands for Limited slip and they placed the L where the decimal place would be.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Do you have to move both perches or one? (I noticed in most pics, the drivers isn't removed) What spring perches are being used? Factory ford just moved or new 8 3/4 perches with u bolts?
Thanks
 
Move both. I used a set of perches from a truck Dana 60 that I had and 8 3/4 shock mounts. Use what you have if they fit.
 
Well I just bought one from a local salvage yard for $150. I already have an A body 8.75 but the 489 housing has 456 gears and I really like the idea of 4 wheel disc brakes and the 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern. They had 3 explores there and all 3 were different tags. One was 3 73, one was 4 10, and then the last one we looked at was 3L73. Car had 159K on the odometer. What all should I look out for to make sure the rear end is in good enough shape to justify the purchase?
 
I put gear oil, pads and rotors on mine and just ran it. Almaybe after a year or so the axle seals went. Might as well replace them before they make a mess. I put about 10,000 miles on mine so far.
 
I went through Summit and ordered seals, axle bearings, differential bearings, and carbon fiber clutches. I put in everything except the pinion bearing and seal. 1,000 miles later the pinion seal started leaking.
Replace all that you can, or replace nothing and see what leaks.
 
So quick question for those that have made this swap. If I put the 1/2" spring relocators on what size tires can I fit and what backspacing for a 72 swinger. I am going to a swap meet in 2 weeks and if I run into a deal on the wheels I want I would like to know they will fit right.
 
txbullets said:
So quick question for those that have made this swap. If I put the 1/2" spring relocators on what size tires can I fit and what backspacing for a 72 swinger. I am going to a swap meet in 2 weeks and if I run into a deal on the wheels I want I would like to know they will fit right.
Click to expand...

That is exactly what I did. I will check my build thread (in my signature) for tire and rim backspacing I used. I have 18x8s with 4.5" BS, you can not get any less BS or it will hit the quarter panel on mine. The tires are 255/45/18's. I can take some more pics if you would like. Look through my build you will see. I did cut the long side tube down to match the short side.

attachment.jpg
 
jrlegacy23 said:
That is exactly what I did. I will check my build thread (in my signature) for tire and rim backspacing I used. I have 18x8s with 4.5" BS, you can not get any less BS or it will hit the quarter panel on mine. The tires are 255/45/18's. I can take some more pics if you would like. Look through my build you will see. I did cut the long side tube down to match the short side.

attachment.php
Click to expand...

Thank you. That is the exact info I was looking for. I want to run 255 tires and 8" rim. Just not sure how large a rim I want. Part of me likes the low profile look and part of me likes the 15" rim with lots of tire look.

Also did you roll your lip?
 
txbullets said:
Thank you. That is the exact info I was looking for. I want to run 255 tires and 8" rim. Just not sure how large a rim I want. Part of me likes the low profile look and part of me likes the 15" rim with lots of tire look.

Also did you roll your lip?
Click to expand...

I was in the same boat, I like low profile tires and nice big meats.
I did not roll the lip at all. I also ended up moving the rear back 1 3/8" to center the wheel in the wheel well. When I moved the rear back, the tire does get a little closer (3/8") to the quarter panel where it starts to cut back in to the lower quarter. A little rolling there will fix any potential issues.
 

Attachments

  • rear wheel.jpg
    41.1 KB · Views: 808
If it is already there it wouldn't hurt to have done or even be much more money just to have it done. What is also nice is that an 8" wide rear wheel with 4.5" backspacing is a perfectly centered, 0 offset.
 
jrlegacy23 said:
If it is already there it wouldn't hurt to have done or even be much more money just to have it done. What is also nice is that an 8" wide rear wheel with 4.5" backspacing is a perfectly centered, 0 offset.
Click to expand...

Please explain this to a dummy... Why is 4.5" zero offset on an 8" wheel and not 4.0"? I'd sure like to understand this before I drop some cash on the wrong wheels..
 
When ever you have a wheel width, you have to add approximately 1/2 on each side for the lip and area the tires mount to. The general rule of thumb is an eight inch wheel is nine inches wide, 10" wide measures 11" outside width.

Basically, when they say 8" wheel, 8" is the tire mounting surface.
 
Wow haven't been on here in ages haha, my swap ended up pretty good, I used a drum rear tho :/ but everything else was cake. I didn't change anything, brake lines didn't need changing at all either. I originally stuck it in uncut and it still would have worked I was using 18x9" bullits wheels and at once 17x8 bullits as well as 17x8" torque thrust.

Bs wer 4.75" for ar wheels and 5 something for 17x8 bullits and 6" for the 18x9"s however that car is long gone and I only took a few pics and they are gone as well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top