8.8 swap

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Did anyone ever say if a mustang 8.8 is the right measurement for a Duster? Ive come across one thats 5 on 4.5 with posi.
 
cosworth said:
Did anyone ever say if a mustang 8.8 is the right measurement for a Duster? I've come across one that is 5 on 4.5 with posi.
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What year Mustang is it out of?
I would think that they would be too wide. It would be like a C-body rear in your duster:
94-98 Mustang 60.25"
99-04 Mustang 61-5/8"
 
Your right I just researched it, its out of a 01 measures approx 65.5. Going with a explorer like everyone else.
 
So i am building a 383/833 combo for my 74 swinger, will the 8.8 hold up? Other than the shorter axle are people running them as is? are most people using the ford driveshaft?
 
swinger74 said:
So i am building a 383/833 combo for my 74 swinger, will the 8.8 hold up? Other than the shorter axle are people running them as is? are most people using the ford driveshaft?
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That one is your call. I have seen them hold up under 10 second Mustangs, they are under the New 700hp Mustangs, and are rumored to be stronger than the 8 3/4 rear (I feel they are about equal). I plan on using the flange from the Ford driveshaft and an adapter U-Joint to the mopar shaft (if it works, have not tried it myself, yet)
:burnout:
 
swinger74 said:
So i am building a 383/833 combo for my 74 swinger, will the 8.8 hold up? Other than the shorter axle are people running them as is? are most people using the ford driveshaft?
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My previous car was not a Dodge but It had an 8.8 in it with stock factory 3.55 gears, full spool and Moser 33 spline axles with C-clip eliminators running 9.15 to 9.90 in the 1/4 mile for 8 years and never had a problem. That car weighed in at 3000 lbs and I was leaving off a trans brake at 5000 rpm on a slick.
The axle tubes were welded and it was braced.
I did have a custom made drive shaft made for it.

They are pretty tough.
 
i have about 10,000 miles on the 8.8 in my duster. most of that is with a 400 and viper t56. its not the fastest thing around but i do throw a beating at it regularly. i have no idea how many miles were on it when i got it, im sure a lot. all i did was clean it up fresh brakes, chop off the brackets, weld the tubes to the center. i put the ford end on my stock driveshaft and ran that for a while, with the original joints. eventually i went with a new shaft with 1350s.
 
cosworth said:
The No.3 cutters are a good idea not sure how a harbor freight set would hold up but for two cuts should be fine. I have pictures on my thread when I cut mine down last night. The best thing is they are self aligning I have done a ford 9" using a chop saw and wish I had thought of this doing that one.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=174009&page=3
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I have the Harbor freight #3 cutter and it's not too bad considering it is dirt cheap. I cut a piece of heavy wall electrical conduit with it and it worked fine and didn't seem to be any worse for the wear. Never tried it on a rearend because I don't have the jig to hold the end's straight while welding them in place. If you don't have the jig you could easily be off a lot and screw everything up. I know some guys claim they have welded ends on without a jig, or welded tubes back together, but I guarantee if they put them on a jig they'd be way off. As much as .020" off and your losing horsepower and wearing bearings at an accelerated rate.
 
Easiest way ive done without a jig is to make sure its on a solid surface use a good graduated level, level out the known good side take the to be welded side and level it on all axis's available. The 9" I did this way has had great service life in my Vega. Im sure we can all agree a puck style jig is the BEST way but can be done without with good results.
 
There are 8.8's out of Mustangs that will fit. They are within an inch or so. It turns out the same as the explorer swap but you dont have to cut them. The biggest hassle is the 4-bolt wheel pattern. This is easily solved buy simply replacing the axleshafts with 'short-side' explorer axlrshafts. Then voila! the bolt pattern is correct. The viable rearends to use were starting in 85 or 86 Mustangs, cant remember. I have NO idea at what year they got wider and would not work for us A-bodies. Likely the next big body design change.
 
Hey guys I need a part number or something for this, to go from the 8.8 explorer to the drive shaft. Thanks

ca96631f.jpg
 
i dont think you can get them for the mopar sized joints and the 8.8", when i first did the swap we put the explorere end of the driveshaft in my stock driveshaft. same length. then i heard you can easily get the conversion joint. i never even looked into it. i think the stock explorerer is a 1330. i eventually had a new driveshaft built with 1350s and a new 1350 flange.
 
You can get conversion joints for 1310 to 1330 and 1330 to 1350 but depending how much power your putting down it might just be worth changing the trans yoke and going to a custom shaft with 1350 joints both ends. I ran a braced 8.8 with aftermarket axles and 1350 joints knocking on the door of 8's in the quarter with a 3000 lb car.
 
Sorry not a better pic, full width explorer 8.8, mustang bullit rims in a 65 cuda. 245/45/17 tires.
 

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After reading these posts about the Ford 8.8, I think this is the cheapest and easiest option for my son to get a limited slip, in a good ratio, with rear disc brakes in his 67 notchback. The 7.25 that is in it now probably won't last long behind his 340.
Rod
 
Well, I found an 8.8 out of a 98 explorer. 3.73 gears with limited slip, 250 bucks!
Rod
 
Just did this swap, and i noticed something when shaking the car. I have a slight tapping in the passenger axle. I know the c clips and the axles cause them to have a tiny bit of play, but does anyone know the exact tolerance or play that i shoul have? Or should i have absolutely no play?

Btw.. the stock length explorer rear end fit in my 72 dart, but that was with stock 98' mustang wheels. The backspacing on those should be around 6" though. Im not exactly sure off the top of my head. I chose to cut it down so i could use my torque thrust wheels though. i did the slug inside the tube and drilled through the axle tubing.
 
Lots of backspace (5 3/4"?) on the bullitt rims on mine. Look for the L in the ratio on the tag on the 8.8. They are the LS diff.........mine is 3L73.
 
I had an 8 1/4 that the axles had that play in them. I never pulled the cover to see if anything was worn out. anyone I talked to said that's normal for a c clip rear. It drove me nuts, I pulled the 8 1/4 put an 8 3/4 in it, only to swap that out for the 8.8
 
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