8.8 swap

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thanks to michel and fabo, subscribed :thumblef:
 
finished yesterday, some pics before / after. How did you connect the shocks to the explorer spring plate? Just some bending of the tabs or something completely different? Some pics would be great!

I learned that the mopar brake line directly connects to the explorer brake hose - another + that makes it easy to swap! It seems that with little modification the original explorer e-brake cable connects to the mopar setup, just have to lengthen the existing cable a bit. Anybody found a good working solution here?

greetings from germany!

Michael
 

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All done:cheers:
 
Hey Ori,

i see you got the brake line installed. To connect the axle to the existing brake system just get a new left explorer hose, this one will connect to your a-bodys brake line (i think your´s is cut in the pic). I located my brake Lines on top of the axles, then the length of the explorer hose was ok!

Michael

Ori said:
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All done:cheers:
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360duster said:
finished yesterday, some pics before / after. How did you connect the shocks to the explorer spring plate? Just some bending of the tabs or something completely different? Some pics would be great!

I learned that the mopar brake line directly connects to the explorer brake hose - another + that makes it easy to swap! It seems that with little modification the original explorer e-brake cable connects to the mopar setup, just have to lengthen the existing cable a bit. Anybody found a good working solution here?

greetings from germany!

Michael
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:thumbup:
 
i used 2 passenger side caliper hoses. i boxed my spring perches, i drilled that 1/4" plate to mount both caliper hoses. i also used 2 driver side e brake cables and made up a new main cable to work, but i think im going to change that whole setup to the regular driver and passenger side cables, and have a singlestraight cable like the earlier cars instead of the U shape pulling on both sides. i probably put 8,000 miles on my 8.8 swap, 6,000 with a big block and 6 speed. i didnt narrow it and first i ran the stock driveshaft, just put the end fo the explorer driveshaft on it with the slant, then i shortened it and put a 727 yoke on it when i did the engine and trans swap, but a couple months ago i had a new 1350 shaft made up.
 
Got the rear ends matched up together. For giggles I weight the 8 1/4 and the 8.8. The 8 1/4 weighted 217 pounds and the 8.8 weighted 194lb. Both were fully loaded. Not to shabby :)
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I was told yesterday that every degree off straight alignment from tranny to differential results in a loss of 15 HP. Don't know if it's true but I'm curious about this issue and how the drivelines are lining up on these swaps compared to factory.

I suspect a Mustang diff has the pinion centered and tubes the same length due to no transfer case causing an offset to the driveline.

Someone mentioned an 8 3/4 has an offset pinion. I presume then that the tubes are different lengths to center the driveline?

I'm debating now over an 8.8 swap or a Ford 9". My local auto wrecker has Ford 9" non posi units for $200 and wants $500 for a 95 mustang 8.8.

I have not seen much info about how strong the 8.8 is but suspect it may be comparable to an 8.75 which is also likely similar to a Ford 9". Just guessing.
 
I'm seriously considering this swap for my early A. I was looking at donor Explorers the other day at the local Pick 'n Pull and noticed a few had factory aluminum drive shafts in them. Has anybody used one of those factory Explorer aluminum drive shafts for their 8.8 swap? It seems to me you would just need to have the trans side chopped off and re-fitted with the proper yoke for your 727/904/833 and use the stock back flange to couple up to your 8.8
 
jamesdart said:
does the same loss apply to up and down offset too?
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Any time the direction of power is shifted there is a loss. Question is how much?
So I did a little google searching about drivetrain power losses.

Fairly useful article here: http://www.modified.com/tech/modp-1005-drivetrain-power-loss/viewall.html

Basic points:

There's a rule of thumb that says you should expect 15% power loss in the drivetrain. Likely it's somewhat higher, but varies a lot. Higher for automatic trans over manual, higher for 4wd, lower for fwd.

The diff is the biggest source of loss, due to transferring power 90 degrees. Expected loss for the typical hypoid gear set is 6-10%.

The tranny is expected to generate 0.5 to 1% power loss.

Getting to the point, d-shaft loss is expected to be 0.5 -1%.

Common sense says the 15 hp per degree angle loss is just silly. A u-joint absorbing 15 hp will be transferring the energy to heat. I think 15 hp would make it red hot in short order. Likely the comment came from gross misapplication of the 15% rule of thumb.

Bottom line, loss from u-joint angle should be minor and likely will affect u-joint life more than anything.

Other points of interest I ran across:

Stronger diffs typically have higher losses - example the Ford 9" uses deeper gear mesh for more contact, higher strength but more friction. Likely minor.

Engine driven fans can consume 15-20 hp! I think I'll look into the electric fan option.
 
subcom said:
I'm seriously considering this swap for my early A. I was looking at donor Explorers the other day at the local Pick 'n Pull and noticed a few had factory aluminum drive shafts in them. Has anybody used one of those factory Explorer aluminum drive shafts for their 8.8 swap? It seems to me you would just need to have the trans side chopped off and re-fitted with the proper yoke for your 727/904/833 and use the stock back flange to couple up to your 8.8
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Hi,

i also got the aluminium driveshaft from a 2wd explorer, will use it for my car. It uses 1330 U-Joints, places like denny´s driveshaft offer a lot of possibilities to connect these to the mopar trannies. I think it´s strong enough and as you said only the front needs to be modified.

Michael
 
360duster said:
Hi,

i also got the aluminium driveshaft from a 2wd explorer, will use it for my car. It uses 1330 U-Joints, places like denny´s driveshaft offer a lot of possibilities to connect these to the mopar trannies. I think it´s strong enough and as you said only the front needs to be modified.

Michael
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Thanks Michael. Please share any pics/comments/feedback once you get the driveshaft done.
 
360duster said:
Hi,

i also got the aluminium driveshaft from a 2wd explorer, will use it for my car. It uses 1330 U-Joints, places like denny´s driveshaft offer a lot of possibilities to connect these to the mopar trannies. I think it´s strong enough and as you said only the front needs to be modified.

Michael
Click to expand...

That is the route I am going. My old crown vic police car had an aluminum shaft also.
 
yep, just picked up an 8.8, 3.73 gears, limmited slip, rear disk brakes with an extra passenger side axle for 150 bucks as well. think im going to drill out the plug welds instead though...
 
I finally got mine put in over Christmas and I am extremely pleased with it, sorry no pics. I couldn't find a disc brake rear but I am still happy. Going from a 2.7 to a 3.73 really woke my car up, and I was even surprised that the motor home 360 can leave a matching set of black marks on the road :)
 
72dart_swinger said:
I finally got mine put in over Christmas and I am extremely pleased with it, sorry no pics. I couldn't find a disc brake rear but I am still happy. Going from a 2.7 to a 3.73 really woke my car up, and I was even surprised that the motor home 360 can leave a matching set of black marks on the road :)
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Sweet. I am going from a 318 auto with 2.73 gears to a worked 340 3000 stall rev man and 4.10 gears. I too will be looking forward to this.
 
64barracuda said:
From what I under stand, it takes a 10 ton press to get it out and a 20 to put it in. Is there an easier way because I don't want to cut the end either.
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It does take a press to get them in and out, I don't know about 10 and 20 tons, but it is not a drill and remove set up.
If you have someone who knows what they are doing when it comes to welding, then there should be no issues with strength.
My neighbor is a career welder and is awesome at it. I was concerned about strength and he assured me that if the axle housing breaks, it will not be where he welded it. He is going to put a slug in it and drill for a couple plug welds to put my mind at ease.... works for me.
 
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