8.8 swap

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The Ranger axle will be just fine. You just won't have disc brakes. A bonus is that I believe both axle shafts are the same length, so I believe you don't have to shorten the axle.
 
I just got "tasked" to cut an 8.8 for a 68 Barracuda. I got 2 short axles and determined the long side needs exactly 3 inches sectioned out. I was going to take it from the inside part, right next to the center section and the vent tube fitting. Cut it, section it, Slip axle back in, C-clip it, use some L brackets and Vice grips to center the new length and tack and weld. He can worry about removing all the brackets. Offset is not a big issue, the driveshaft only needs to be on the same plane at the driveshaft slip yoke and the pinion angle, and that can be up or down 3-4 degrees depending on what power and rear suspension you have.
 
pishta said:
I just got "tasked" to cut an 8.8 for a 68 Barracuda. I got 2 short axles and determined the long side needs exactly 3 inches sectioned out. I was going to take it from the inside part, right next to the center section and the vent tube fitting. Cut it, section it, Slip axle back in, C-clip it, use some L brackets and Vice grips to center the new length and tack and weld. He can worry about removing all the brackets. Offset is not a big issue, the driveshaft only needs to be on the same plane at the driveshaft slip yoke and the pinion angle, and that can be up or down 3-4 degrees depending on what power and rear suspension you have.
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I was wondering how much needed to be cut out. I thought it was a little less than 3", more like 2.875". That is the difference in the length of the 2 axles themselves. The longer side is 30.5" and the shorter is 27.625". This is on a 995 and up Explorer Rear, are you shortening a different year 8.8?
 
I cut 3 and I have about 1/8" of shiny axle on the end, before the center pin is installed. that tells me I cut it a little short, but since its a C clip, the bearings are about 1 inch wide and there seems to be a pretty wide bearing surface on the axle itself, exact is not necessary. I cut mine with a sawzall and then trued up the tube so I probably lost a few mm's. I feel I was close enough, but 2.875 would probably be closer to spec. You guys realize these weigh 170 lbs? How much does a practically sheetmetal 8 75 weigh?
 
pishta said:
I cut 3 and I have about 1/8" of shiny axle on the end, before the center pin is installed. that tells me I cut it a little short, but since its a C clip, the bearings are about 1 inch wide and there seems to be a pretty wide bearing surface on the axle itself, exact is not necessary. I cut mine with a sawzall and then trued up the tube so I probably lost a few mm's. I feel I was close enough, but 2.875 would probably be closer to spec. You guys realize these weigh 170 lbs? How much does a practically sheetmetal 8 75 weigh?
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Thanks for the info, that's about what I was measuring to do the cut also. I am drilling the plug welds and having the tube end that goes into the housing cut on a lathe to put back in.
 
I used to do this swap a lot on Jeeps.... if you can find a 98 and newer explorer rear they have 31 spline axles where as several older versions have a 28 spline. With that being said.... you have the option of jumping up to Moser or Alloy USA axles shafts for extra strength.
My question is regarding the bolt pattern you plan to use? Are you going to have new patterns redrilled for the rear or do your front and rear patterns already match up?
 
The Ford Explorer/Ranger had the same bolt pattern as the mopars larger bolt pattern, 5 on 4.5
Also the same bolt pattern as the YJ and TJ jeeps
 
The Explorer axles with discs previous to 98' are 31 spline as well, it's the Ranger 8.8's with drums that are 28 spline. I'd have to go back and research to see when 31 spline started, but I do know that, for example, the 97' Explorer axles are 31 spline.

The weight difference comes from the fact that the 8 3/4 axles are banjo axles. Banjo style axles are an older design, though I'm not sure if that is good for bad. The carrier is accessed from the front. Some would argue that the heavier 8.8 is stronger.
 
I bought explorer rear a few months ago. Just did the cut down today. Went to pick and pull yesterday, got a short side axle. Saw another very clean 8.8 in a 99 model, 3L73. Pulled it out and another short axle from another 8.8. Paid 130.00 for rear complete and 2 extra axles including taxes and fee's.( I have a 54 chevy pick up its going into.)
Instead of a chop saw or sawzall to cut the axle tube, I used a pipe cutter on it. It tracked really well around the tube and left a straight cut. It also left a nice bevel also, made it very easy to weld. My pipe cutter wasn't big enough, so I went to the harbour frieght store and bought a #3 pipe cutter for 19.99. A ridged brand cutter will set you back about 300.00. This is one time the cheap tool really worked better. It has wide rollers, tracks straighter. You might want to check them out.
After I sanded the tube, measured and marked it, I had it cut really straight. I used a 4" piece of angle iron clamped to the tube and end to hold it in place when I tacked it. It worked well for me. just something you might want too consider if your going to do this mod.
Dave
 
I am doing this swap as we speak. I got the explorer rearend with 4.10 gears and limited slip out of the junkyard for $250. I cut exactly 3" off the long side. Here are the pictures so far..
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Way bigger axle tubes :)
 
smilingdave said:
I bought explorer rear a few months ago. Just did the cut down today. Went to pick and pull yesterday, got a short side axle. Saw another very clean 8.8 in a 99 model, 3L73. Pulled it out and another short axle from another 8.8. Paid 130.00 for rear complete and 2 extra axles including taxes and fee's.( I have a 54 chevy pick up its going into.)
Instead of a chop saw or sawzall to cut the axle tube, I used a pipe cutter on it. It tracked really well around the tube and left a straight cut. It also left a nice bevel also, made it very easy to weld. My pipe cutter wasn't big enough, so I went to the harbour frieght store and bought a #3 pipe cutter for 19.99. A ridged brand cutter will set you back about 300.00. This is one time the cheap tool really worked better. It has wide rollers, tracks straighter. You might want to check them out.
After I sanded the tube, measured and marked it, I had it cut really straight. I used a 4" piece of angle iron clamped to the tube and end to hold it in place when I tacked it. It worked well for me. just something you might want too consider if your going to do this mod.
Dave
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How much did you cut out?
 
Ori said:
I am doing this swap as we speak. I got the explorer rearend with 4.10 gears and limited slip out of the junkyard for $250. I cut exactly 3" off the long side. Here are the pictures so far..
Way bigger axle tubes :)
Click to expand...

That is coming out nice. Are you putting a slug in the tube or gonna butt weld? I am looking at using a lathe also, but for strength I am going to drill the plug welds, remove the axle tube from the center housing, cut it off/down on a lathe and slide the tube back in the housing, then re-plug weld and then weld the housing to the axle tubes. Am I overthinking this?
 
jrlegacy23 said:
That is coming out nice. Are you putting a slug in the tube or gonna butt weld? I am looking at using a lathe also, but for strength I am going to drill the plug welds, remove the axle tube from the center housing, cut it off/down on a lathe and slide the tube back in the housing, then re-plug weld and then weld the housing to the axle tubes. Am I overthinking this?
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I'm going to weld the axle tubes after I'm all done. Even though the end is cut it should be just as strong as stock as long as the welding goes smooth ;) I will be using a tig welder. But your plan may give you some peace of mind especially if your going to in high Hp behind it.
 
Ori said:
I'm going to weld the axle tubes after I'm all done. Even though the end is cut it should be just as strong as stock as long as the welding goes smooth ;) I will be using a tig welder. But your plan may give you some peace of mind especially if your going to in high Hp behind it.
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I was thinking of just having the tube cut and welded by my neighbor who is a certified welder (and awesome at it). It will be quicker and easier, sometimes I just over think things and want them to be done to the best way possible, even if it does not need it.
 
A highly respected axle shop in Portland, OR just cut and welded the end of my 8.8. I was surprised they didn't drill out the plugs, but they said this is just fine. So, in other words, it should be just fine.
 
Judge Mills said:
I highly respected axle shop in Portland, OR just cut and welded the end of my 8.8. I was surprised they didn't drill out the plugs, but they said this is just fine. So, in other words, it should be just fine.
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Sounds good to me also, I talked to my Welder guy today and he guarantees that it will not break at the weld. That is enough of a piece of mind for me : )
 
drilling plugs and pressing out the axles is the best way to do it, but itll take a 10 ton body ram to press out the tube and a 20 tone to push it back in according to another site. Good welder should do it up, the tube is about 1/4 inch thick. Great call on the #3 pipe cutter. I was all ready to use mine but I guess its a #2, too small so I ghetto sawzalled it and went though about 20 minutes of additional set up time for the truing of the new section. In retrospect, the best way I found to get the tubes parallel was to stand the fixed section on end and use a post level on it, then secure it and use the same post level on the welded side (if you weld the entire tube from the center like I did foolishly). Its a great mod, perhaps in my future projects buit I like my matched 5 on 4 disc/drum bolt pattern. Maybe redrilled axles.
 
Did a little more work on the rear end. Here are a few more pictures. We made a aluminum donut so we could clamp the donut down with the axle in it so it would help us align everything.
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Double and triple checked our alignment. So far so good.
 
I dropped a C clip in the red circled part. How would one suggest getting that out? It is in the pinion housing.
 

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I dropped one in the exact same spot. All I did was lean it down so gravity was forcing it down then get a flexible magnet and get it, super simple. Even a straight magnet might get it depending on how far it fell.
 
I can get one finger down to touch it, I had to take the differential out to do it. It is in the pinion housing. I was gonna go pick up a flexible magnet tomorrow and try to get it out. The opening gets more narrow and then opens up into the pinion housing. It is like trying to get a quarter out of a piggy bank slot. A real pain in the a$$.
 
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