8.8 swap

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A few of the trailer hitch

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mybe i missed it, but what axel did you have to use? how much was cut off?
 
Dakota_Don said:
mybe i missed it, but what axel did you have to use? how much was cut off?
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It's an 8.8 out of an exlorer. The axle shafts are out of the same rig, but there both passenger side shafts. I cut the drivers side axle tube down about 3" to measure the same as the passenger side.



Jake
 
I got quite a bit done today. I finished welding up the rearend. I welded the the tubes up to the center section. I've read thats a pretty big weak spot for these rear-ends. It was kind of a ***** to weld since I couldn't really get in there and clean out all the resadue, the weld had some perosity. There's plenty of weld to hold it so I'm not to worried. I also build the relocation boxes, and cut the frame where they go. Here's a few pics.

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Thanks Shishaldin.

I forgot, I was goin to say the relocation "kit" cost me $33.40. I went to the local steel yard and and picked up a big scrap sheet of 3/16 and a 56" piece of 1" schedule 40 pipe all for $8.40. Plus $25 from a local speed shop for the perches. The only thing left is bushings. In the end the DIY oproach sure beats the $180 for the mopar kit!
 
Excellent thread, I'm watching this one closely! Back when I was on the fence about going 8.8 or 8.75, prices around DFW for a decent exploder 8.8/3L73/DB rear were ALWAYS in the $6-800 range. Couldn't find anything close to a reasonable price, so I went early-B 8.75 instead. Had I known I was going to be so committed to Ford wheel sets, I probably would have stuck it out with my 8.25 for a while longer until prices came down on the 8.8's. For my uses, the exploder is about the right width already, but some others in Rangers I think are a little narrower - and equal-length side to side? Been too long since I researched those. Hard to beat the exploder for a full-meal-deal rear axle package, though, isn't it?

Nice work!

Clair
 
clair.davis said:
Excellent thread, I'm watching this one closely! Back when I was on the fence about going 8.8 or 8.75, prices around DFW for a decent exploder 8.8/3L73/DB rear were ALWAYS in the $6-800 range. Couldn't find anything close to a reasonable price, so I went early-B 8.75 instead. Had I known I was going to be so committed to Ford wheel sets, I probably would have stuck it out with my 8.25 for a while longer until prices came down on the 8.8's. For my uses, the exploder is about the right width already, but some others in Rangers I think are a little narrower - and equal-length side to side? Been too long since I researched those. Hard to beat the exploder for a full-meal-deal rear axle package, though, isn't it?

Nice work!

Clair
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Thanks for the feed back. My understanding is that the ranger's come with either the 7.5 or the 8.8 (4.0 only). The 8.8 is the same length as the exploder, but the 7.5 is 1 1/2" shorter. Kind of a strange deal but that's the way it seems to be. The Ranger 8.8 only came with 28 spline axle (except newer F4X models) and had a smaller load rating then the exploders.
$6-800...you must live back east? When I started looking for this rearend there were 7 different explorers being parted out on craigslist. I almost bought a whole truck for $200 just to get the rearend out of it!:toothy10:


Jake
 
Yeah, I live back east - from Idaho... you'd think with all the exploders here in the DFW/TX area they'd be dirt cheap, but that's what they were asking back then. I couldn't have done a parts truck - my wife wasn't keen on the cars I already had at the house, so adding another wasn't an option... Just as well, I guess. Seems like the prices are more realistic now, especially since the disc brake rears aren't as new as they were then. Depending on how my wheel search goes, I may go down this road again.

Clair
 
Almost finished! This has been a pretty big project for me and I'll be happy to have it done. I wasn't able to find bushings for the leaf springs or the shackle's at any of the local parts stores. I decided just to reuse what I have and up grade whenever I can afford a new set of springs. I will, however, have to go searching for a smaller bushing to fit into the pipe I used for the shackle hanger.

Everywhere I read about using the pre-existing hole in the frame said you couldn't use a hole saw, you just had to open it up with a drimel type tool. Well I didn't really like that Idea so I come up with a way to use a hole saw to open it up. I used a scrap chunk of 3/16 plate, and drilled a 1" hole in a corner. I tacked and clamped it to the frame with the 1" hole over the frame's existing hole. This way I can use the hole in the plate as a guide for the hole saw. It worked out great. The only advise I have is set the plate hole a bit higher than the hole in the frame. Because there is a pinch weld in the way of getting the drill totally vertical, if the first hole is a little high, it will match the second hole just about perfect. Hope this helps. Here's a few more pics.


Jake

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Lookin good Jake. I must have missed that you were relocating the springs also. Thought you were just installing a rearend. I helped a buddy relocate his springs last year. It is more time consuming than it looks like. I agree that making the parts is real easy and cost effective. Are you going to enlarge the wheel wells also?
 
Thanks Fishy68. No I dont think I'm goin to mini tub it. At least not any time soon. I think I should be able to fit a big enough tire under it now. I had a 28x9 slick that fit as long as I was headed in a straight line. LOL. I want to find something like an ET street about that size.

Jake
 
Well I finished the rearend swap on last sunday. I just got a real bad cold from working out side, and I've been sick all week. So I'm just barely feelin up to takin some pictures today.

I'm having some issuse's geting the e-brake to work half way decent, so I think I'm just going to take the cables back off for now. Also the passenger side leafspring is rubbing the gas tank. I'm thinking about just dinging up the tank a little...?

Jake

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dart360swinger said:
Well I finished the rearend swap on last sunday. I just got a real bad cold from working out side, and I've been sick all week. So I'm just barely feelin up to takin some pictures today.

I'm having some issuse's geting the e-brake to work half way decent, so I think I'm just going to take the cables back off for now. Also the passenger side leafspring is rubbing the gas tank. I'm thinking about just dinging up the tank a little...?

Jake
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Why not loosen up the gas tank straps then scoot it over? it should have enough "play" to move out of the way. And then you would have a pristine tank with no signs of abuse! haha! you will want to make sure the filler tube slides or it won't move.

hope this helps,

Benjamin
 
bjkadron said:
Why not loosen up the gas tank straps then scoot it over? it should have enough "play" to move out of the way. And then you would have a pristine tank with no signs of abuse! haha! you will want to make sure the filler tube slides or it won't move.

hope this helps,

Benjamin
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Thanks. I'll try that first.
 
Badart said:
Looks great. Have you driven it yet?
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Ya, not a whole lot though, just around the block. I havn't had a chance to check it out yet, but I think the e-brake was partially engaged. The leaf springs are real saggy leading to lots of body roll. Other then that, everything seemed to be real smooth. I'll play with it some more this weekend and try to get some video maybe.

Anyone have any cheap suggestions on stiffening up the rear? add-a-leaf?


Thanks
Jake
 
I'm also thinking about moving the rearend back 1". This would give a little more clearence at the front of the tires. If I go with a longer shackle it should pick the ***-end of the car up a little and help level it out a bit.
 
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