8.8 swap

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457 fits mopar driveshaft and ford yoke.

20190615_190443.jpg
 
Nope exploder swaybar wont work. Have no idea on the yoke you have pix of. I got stock yoke with exploder rear when i bought it.
 
I shortened my original driveshaft, then used the 7260 to 1310 conversion joint with the spicer flange, this was the cheapest route. As you can see 138 bucks for shortening, balance, parts and labor was not a bad price to get my car on its feet. Talk with your local drive line shops they may have a better way to get it done.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Thank you very much this is what I have been looking for. Was your driveshaft a standard mopar shaft? I'm not sure I'd the joint size changed from 67-75.but that is a start thank you
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Yes, original to my slant six 67 barracuda it was in good shape. My car is under 300hp. I had a choice at the drive line shop and I listen to his recommendations. He said he could build me one that would handle 600hp for just shy of 300 bucks or I could cut mine down and be in for under 150 bucks. I’m building on a dime so obvious choice was to cut my original down.
 
67/6barracuda said:
Yes, original to my slant six 67 barracuda it was in good shape. My car is under 300hp. I had a choice at the drive line shop and I listen to his recommendations. He said he could build me one that would handle 600hp for just shy of 300 bucks or I could cut mine down and be in for under 150 bucks. I’m building on a dime so obvious choice was to cut my original down.
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Good to know mine was a slant as well!
 
moparmandan said:
Looks right. 4.25 bolt circle (confirmed), 1330 u joint.
Or do you need 1310? Lol
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Heck if know!! Haha I'm just going off what everyone else has used. If I can find a companion joint for the Chrysler driveshaft to 1310 that would be ok with me I'm just concerned about finding the right ujoint
 
Yep it is and here is the joint that goes with it. The part numbers on the picture he posted will work as long as my driveshaft is the same as his . I will have to measure it.

Screenshot_20190616-155822_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Remember I had to shorten my drive shaft. Those part numbers in my photo has the the u joint and spicer flange get them both.
 
67/6barracuda said:
Remember I had to shorten my drive shaft. Those part numbers in my photo has the the u joint and spicer flange get them both.
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Yes that is exactly what I have been looking for the matching part numbers for both parts thank you very much!! I found the yoke for 30 and the joint for 15 so for 45 bucks total I'm in business. I just gotta find the moroso spring perches and I'm good to start cut chop and rebuilding!
 
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I removed my original axle and measure it with an angle finder. With the axle upside down I put a level on the spring perch and leveled it. I then put the angle finder on the pinion flange, it was -7* which would become positive if I flipped the axle back up right. My transmission measured at -2* so in theory +2* on the axle would have aligned drive line angle. I think I settled right at +4* for the perches and welded them. So far in the car I have no issues. It’s hard to explain it. Use your original measurement on the the original axle if you still have it. I’m sure others will chime in.
 
67/6barracuda said:
I removed my original axle and measure it with an angle finder. With the axle upside down I put a level on the spring perch and leveled it. I then put the angle finder on the pinion flange, it was -7* which would become positive if I flipped the axle back up right. My transmission measured at -2* so in theory +2* on the axle would have aligned drive line angle. I think I settled right at +4* for the perches and welded them. So far in the car I have no issues. It’s hard to explain it. Use your original measurement on the the original axle if you still have it. I’m sure others will chime in.
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Thank you that sounds about right. That is exactly what I was gonna do. Just go off my old one.
 
I grabbed a Ranger rear end and drive shaft for $140 bucks today. It is a 3.55 open rear with drum brakes....going into my 64 Valiant.

I know the Explorer rear is the preferred swap piece, and I have done that myself. However, has anyone done the Ranger rear? It is 58.5" WMS and which is about and 1 3/8" off from my 7.25 size of 57 and a bit....anyway, anyone use this rear in their car?

Thanks.

sb
 
Just an FYI I did some more measuring compared to an A body stock width 8.75 I adding in drum and rotor mating flange thicknesses on the drums and rotors for both axles and included that in my figuring.The narrowed exploder 8.8 ends up being narrower 1" in overall length from wheel mating flange to wheel mating flange than the stock width mopar A body axle. That's only 1/2" per side. This will not be noticable at all.
 
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