8.8 swap

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So I went and measured the 8.8 I have from flange to flange and added an inch to either end. Stock uncut, my rear end is 56” on the dot. Gonna have the 9 inch ends welded on and then it’s just a matter of how far I’ll have to move the springs inward. 10 inch wheel seems like it won’t fit the stock spring location
 
Alex69Dart said:
I have my wheels. Just need to get tires. Also not yet ready to start fitting everything. Just wanted to get some ideas of measurements
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When I did the rear in my 70 Dart, I made it 56 1/2" wide complete. I used the DoctorDiff spring offset kit and ran a 18x8 wheel with zero offset, 255 45 18's. I moved the rear diff back 1 3/8" to center it in the wheel well. I was about an inch from the leafs and about 1/2" from the lip on the quarter panel. I also lowered it with the Doctordiff kit and used Hotchkis leafs, which lowered it a total of 3.5". Not sure how much all of that will help, but may give you some idea of width
 
jrlegacy23 said:
When I did the rear in my 70 Dart, I made it 56 1/2" wide complete. I used the DoctorDiff spring offset kit and ran a 18x8 wheel with zero offset, 255 45 18's. I moved the rear diff back 1 3/8" to center it in the wheel well. I was about an inch from the leafs and about 1/2" from the lip on the quarter panel. I also lowered it with the Doctordiff kit and used Hotchkis leafs, which lowered it a total of 3.5". Not sure how much all of that will help, but may give you some idea of width
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I’m gonna be running 18x10 with 1.1” offset, 285/35/18s. Looking at getting the mini tubs, relocation kit, subframe connectors and torque boxes from US Car Tool. I know that end to end the 8.8 is 56 with even axle length. Taking it to LP Racing in california to have the 9 inch ends put on soon
 
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Got my new cover on. $120.00 on Amazon. I did have to grind down 1 rib on the inside because the tone ring rubbed on it. I read the reviews first and saw that this was a problem. I also had to get a breather plug and longer bolts as this did not come with bolts. The fill and drain plugs did come installed.
 
loganscuda said:
Got my new cover on. $120.00 on Amazon. I did have to grind down 1 rib on the inside because the tone ring rubbed on it. I read the reviews first and saw that this was a problem. I also had to get a breather plug and longer bolts as this did not come with bolts. The fill and drain plugs did come installed.
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Did you move the rear end back at all (from the stock location)? How close is the diff cover to the gas tank?
 
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I did not move it. It is about 3”. That was my biggest concern. The picture was taken with the car lifted up by the frame. I have a -1 inch drop leafs. The picture looks like it’s super close but it not. On a side note I also ground off the ford lettering in the oval. HaHa
 
I changed the cover because it had a rubber drain plug in it that was ripped and I could not find another plug. So instead of stock I got this one. After ready a lot of reviews from other covers and bad fit on the less expense ones.
 
I just started doing another 8.8 swap for my 68 Barracuda. This one is a 3.73 geared trac-loc from a 2000 Ford Explorer. I just got done pulling the axles and sandblasting the housing. This is the rear in raw metal. Now time to cut it down and start getting it ready to go in the car.

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jrlegacy23 said:
I just started doing another 8.8 swap for my 68 Barracuda. This one is a 3.73 geared trac-loc from a 2000 Ford Explorer. I just got done pulling the axles and sandblasting the housing. This is the rear in raw metal. Now time to cut it down and start getting it ready to go in the car.

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That looks like a professional sand blasting set-up. Am I correct?
 
jrlegacy23 said:
You are correct. My Uncle owns a blasting company. He lets me use it once in a while, as long as I don't over-ask him. LOL
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In the 80's, when I worked for the railroad, I sand blasted and painted locomotives. That hood and hose look eerily similar to what I used back then. Lol. Good for you to have access to that kind of equipment! Steve
 
I had today off from work, so I marked out the 8.8, cut it, and welded it up. I tacked it all the way around, remeasuring 4 sides of the tube, after every 8-10 tacks. I then turned the heat up and put a nice thick bead an inch at a time, skipping around, and measuring 4 sides after ever 2-3 welds. It was 17 1/16" from the housing to the inside of the flange at all times. I also welded the center housing to the axle tubes. I am going to grind the weld down with a flap wheel tomorrow, and then fill in if needed:
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Got the weld all ground down were it is graphed together. I have it where (I believe) will have the weld supported by the spring perch:

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Not sure what your using for perches but the moroso was the best fit for my 8.8...They don’t sit up as high as the others and have the perfect size hole for the locating pin.
 
I cut off the 8.8 ones and will compare them to the 7 1/4 ones to see which are lower. I don't want the car to be too low. I am going to weld up the factory hole and move it back about 3/4-1" to center the tire in the wheel well. Uncentered rear tires drive me crazy.
 
Ok that works too, I need to recenter mine as well, I'm going to use a plate behind the front shackle. I have 275/60/15’s and you can tell it needs to go back at least 3/4” or more.
 
I am going to try the spacer first s well, but am using a 6" offset shackle (factory is 5") and I want to make sure that it does not hit the rear frame support
 
67/6barracuda said:
I used doctor diffs 1/2” offset without problems.
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I was going to, Cass makes a great product, but I could not bring myself to pay $175 for shackles/hangers. I bought some 5/8" offset shackles from Ruffstuff for $11 each ($44 total, plus $8 shipping), and going to alter the stock hangers to offset.
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jrlegacy23 said:
I was going to, Cass makes a great product, but I could not bring myself to pay $175 for shackles/hangers. I bought some 5/8" offset shackles from Ruffstuff for $11 each ($44 total, plus $8 shipping), and going to alter the stock hangers to offset. View attachment 1715488764
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I'm interested in this let me know what you do to the front hangers I want to do the 1/2 offset but like you I cant bring myself to pay 175 for the dr diff kits
 
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