Tsully
Well-Known Member
2010 and up Rangers now have disk brakes
8.8 swap
- Thread starter dart360swinger
- Start date
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2010 and up Rangers now have disk brakes
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Oh. I didnt know
'Bout Time!!
Well-Known Member
I am thinking of doing this as well. What axles and hardware did you go with to accomplish this?
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I had Quick Performance in Ames Iowa do the work, I took them a clean axel housing and they welded it up for me and sold me the axels for $600. That included welding the center to the tubes, beautiful welding.
Notanova73
Well-Known Member
Can someone tell me something? I have 73 duster ,I found a 2000 ranger 8.8 they say it’s 58.5 wide. My question is the offset vs explorer?( I know this axle is weak but better then a broke 8.25–for now working on a d60)I will not be narrowing wonder how it compares can’t find anything
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Furd exploders are everywhere. How can you not find one?
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I called my local wrecking yard and told them what I wanted, three days later I had exactly what I wanted 3.73 gear LD locking diff with drum brakes. I later put disks on it but drums are what I wanted at the time. $150.00
jrlegacy23
68 Barracuda
Rangers have a 2" offset of the pinion. I would run it as is if the Ranger rear is what you are after.
Here is a good read if you are looking into an 8.8 swap, Ranger or Explorer:
The Ford Explorer 8.8-Inch Axle Swap
Good luck on whichever way you go.
71scamp78
Well-Known Member
I know this is old thread but stock is 43 inch center to center on perches right. I bought a US Car Tool kit that moves them in 3 inches so wouldn't that make them 37 inches center to center. I measured across my rear frame rails and seems like it 36 ctc on the frame rails. I'm I missing something. Thanks
Cuda416
Well-Known Member
No, you're only cutting the long end. So it's 33 of the total, and it actually 2-7/8 to be completely accurate from everything I've seem.
He’s talking about spring perch width after doing a 3” spring relocation, not axle width.
Cuda416
Well-Known Member
Dang it my mistake. I thought he was talking about the distance of the perches, his word, rather than the hangers...
EDIT: Ok, I realize he's talking about the perches, in relation to the springs after a relocation. The rest still applies. Measure 14 times, cut and weld once.
To make an 8.8 fit into the stock location, 2-7/8 is removed from the long side.
To adjust for the relocation, he needs to just go with ground truth with the car assuming everything is "correct" and the leaf springs are vertical and not canted slightly one way or the other. If not, that could easily account for 1/2" on each side. With a relocation kit are the springs now parallel as measured between front and rear? If so, it will be a lot easier to get the right distance. Geometry doesn't lie.
Whatever the case may be, the second video goes into making the correct, if tedious, measurements to ensure everything is aligned and centered properly.,
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I've looked at every post, but if the year 8.8 and off what model that can be made to work in a 67 dart has been stated, these old eyes have missed it. I need to know what years off a explorer will interchange. And any other model that will work. Ranger?
Thanks for any help. I've got a 55 dodge truck I need this for. nd maybe a 67 dart. Kevin
I've found an explorer, but it has over 200,000 miles....
Thanks for any help. I've got a 55 dodge truck I need this for. nd maybe a 67 dart. Kevin
I've found an explorer, but it has over 200,000 miles....
Cuda416
Well-Known Member
When you shorten the long side the 8.8 ends up being 56-5/8 from wheel mount surface to surface. I think it's about an inch wider than the stock rear but measure your existing one to make sure.
You'll end up taking 2-7/8" off the long side.
jrlegacy23
68 Barracuda
Stock A body is 57 1/8" wide WMS to WMS, so you are 1/2" narrower with the 8.8 cut to 56 5/8".
An accurate 8 3/4" rear axle width list
Cuda416
Well-Known Member
Which is why i added....
I think it's about an inch wider than the stock rear but measure your existing one to make sure.
This site has a lot of good information The Ford Explorer 8.8-Inch Axle Swap
I did mine for a 67 fastback.
67 Fastback getting 8.8 rear
I did mine for a 67 fastback.
67 Fastback getting 8.8 rear
Slant Six Bumblebee
Well-Known Member
in this article you posted they say that people have put a 8.8 with discs in and not had to change there master cylinder? Can any one confirm they did this or that it works. Also will having drums up front and disc in the rear be an issue?
I will not say that my set up is right but I have disks in the front and disk in the rear no proportioning valve the car stops pretty darn good better than the 9” drums I had. I am using the stock master cylinder. Again it probably not right but works better than the what I had for sure.
Slant Six Bumblebee
Well-Known Member
what did you use for front disc brakes? and did you orginil have drums or discs up front?
Originally drums all around, now have 73’ and up disk brakes.
motorpirate
serial mopar owner
Me too, '66 Cuda W/'73 Disks, Ford Explorer rear disks.
No Prop valve, factory manual disk master cyl.
Stops a mid 12's car great!!
No Prop valve, factory manual disk master cyl.
Stops a mid 12's car great!!
7duce swinger
Well-Known Member
Even mustang rears work well and handle decent power even with the 28 spline axles. My saleen foxbody was 600whp on a boosted sbf. Lived from the time it was first bought with I’d say around 300+whp and then I rebuilt the lsd and installed 3.55 gears when I rebuilt the motor and made 600 at the wheels. That car is still running around today on a different setup with about 500whp. 8.8’s are a strong rear. Mustang 8.8 is already equal length as well
indirect_connection
Well-Known Member
Just took the maiden voyage on my 8.8 swap. Thought I would share here because not many have used the Ranger option. I chose this option as I did not want to attempt to cut down an Explorer rear, and the Ranger is the exact width to run the Mustang Bullitt wheels that I've been running.
It cost more than most 8.8 conversions because the combination I wanted wasn't a factory option, 3.31 with limited slip.
The junkyard rear had damaged backing plates and no drum hardware, so I converted to Mustang discs using instructions from The Ranger Station
I'm running a 904 and I found a Spicer 1330 yoke and had a custom driveshaft made at 53". No need for conversion u-joints.
I used Speedway shock plates, but could have used 8.75 shock plates if I had had them. The Ranger axle is an oddball 2.75 axle tube and I had to slot the holes as the shock plate is meant for a 3" tube.
I used a Dr Diff offset hanger kit and new springs. Right now the 17x8 with 245/45r17 are about 1" from the spring, and 1.25-1.5 from the quarter lip. I have just ordered 18x9 for the rear and plan to run 275/40r18. They should JUST clear. In anything they'll just need the fender lip folded over or trimmed.
It cost more than most 8.8 conversions because the combination I wanted wasn't a factory option, 3.31 with limited slip.
The junkyard rear had damaged backing plates and no drum hardware, so I converted to Mustang discs using instructions from The Ranger Station
I'm running a 904 and I found a Spicer 1330 yoke and had a custom driveshaft made at 53". No need for conversion u-joints.
I used Speedway shock plates, but could have used 8.75 shock plates if I had had them. The Ranger axle is an oddball 2.75 axle tube and I had to slot the holes as the shock plate is meant for a 3" tube.
I used a Dr Diff offset hanger kit and new springs. Right now the 17x8 with 245/45r17 are about 1" from the spring, and 1.25-1.5 from the quarter lip. I have just ordered 18x9 for the rear and plan to run 275/40r18. They should JUST clear. In anything they'll just need the fender lip folded over or trimmed.
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