8 point roll bar

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j par

j par

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I just ordered the competition engineering 8 point roll bar from summit for my 73 duster and was wondering if anybody had some pictures of the roll bars they could provide? Of course I'm hoping that somebody has a similar set up so I can get some clues of what worked for them. And I called the local Steel Yard today as I'm probably going to go down and get some 3 inch by 2 inch tubing to make my own frame connectors. any pictures of that would be much appreciated as well. Thank you.....

I should mention that I do have a rule book and I have a good idea of what I'm doing but there can be lots of variances in the way people go about doing it and I was just hoping to see what people are doing out there.
 
Put the subframe connectors in first. You may need to cut access in the floor. Dont get crazy with it.
The main hoop should come with longer than needed legs. Tip-if you are going to use plates to bolt/ weld down to grab the sill and rear clip hole saw two holes before you put the plates downso you can size the main hoop legs.
Two biggies: make sure the frame is level before you install the sub frame. Second make sure the main hoop is where you want it in relation to what ever seat you ate going to run and reference thr rule book on head to bar spacing.
 
after putting the frame connectors i welded kickers on to them...where the role bar would come thru the floor...cut hole in floor and welded role bar to kicker instead of floor...
 

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70aarcuda said:
after putting the frame connectors i welded kickers on to them...where the role bar would come thru the floor...cut hole in floor and welded role bar to kicker instead of floor...
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What's the end of that kicker welded to? It looks like it's just hanging out.
 
i welded the main hoop support bar to the frame rail.....
 
mopowers said:
What's the end of that kicker welded to? It looks like it's just hanging out.
Click to expand...

after welding it to the frame rail...i welded it to the floor also....some pictures were not the completed product....lol
 
and on the rear bars...i welded another bar on the frame below the trunk floor...and then ran the rear bars thru the trunk floor and welded them to that cross bar ...which i felt made the roll bar alot more solid...
 

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All good advice in here, there lots of pics of my cage and sub connectors in my build thread located in my signature below.
 
This is my version of the 2 x 3 box tube connectors.
First made 1/8" plate reinforcing plates for the front rails.
Cut the rear frame rails and floor to slide the tubes in. Made to weld to the front of the inboard spring box's and front reiforcment plates.
Welded everywhere it could be welded. Put a piece of 18 ga. sheet metal over where I cut the
floor open to weld rear of tube from the top.
 

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Make sure the car is level and straight before welding, even if you have to straighten it first. All can be checked with a laser level.
 
So a disclosure before I make this next statement is I am going to take every precaution to make the roll cage as safe as possible! But with that said I was talking to my friend last night who's duster is in the low 10's and he was telling me I don't have to get the rollbar certified until I'm under 10 seconds? Which means for the most part it won't be scrutinized? So my concerns are exactly where I want to make the main hoop connections and at which angles? I was hoping I wouldn't have to take out my firewall again and still be able to be more than 30% from vertical as the rules say. I am again trying to make this a legal roll bar and beyond safe. As I understand it to get down to 10 seconds I only need the main hoop - and a bar going by the drivers door? Of course I'm going to put all eight points down to the best of my ability. Please keep the pictures coming as everything gives me great ideas..... thank you!
 
a 8pt roll bar is legal to 10 flat as long as you have the OEM firewall and floor...stock rear wheel wells can be removed for tubs...

make sure you consult a nhra rule book....you also need to what the angel of the driver side bar....look at picture in rule book
 
Well, cutting and welding tomorrow. Thank you 70aarcuda and everyone else's pictures .
 
twayne24365 said:
Mind taking pics of your install?. I'll be doing this myself one of these days lol
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Yes no problem I'm hard pressed to think of anything that I've done on the car that I haven't shared here in full pictures over the last 2 years. And actually quite surprised I didn't get more people chiming in with their pictures.....!?......
 
I had to buy in 10ft length at the steel yard and had them cut into 4ft pieces - 1 1/2 × 2 1/2 inch stock.
$35. I'll get busy in the morning tomorrow, I'm just feeling lazy today. My crazy thinking : $35 for steel- $99 for cheep harbor freight welder - still cheaper than the cheapest frame connectors from summit.
 
This is the set that I made. I used 1.5" x 3" x .120", so that no cutting of the floor was needed. I did overlap a pretty large section of the rear rails, and added gusset plates on the front that tied into the gusset plates I already had welded around the torsion bar anchors. If I'd really been thinking I'd have made the gusset plates for the torsion bar anchors large enough to use as the ends of the subframe connectors. In the back the subframe connectors also got tied into the torque boxes. The 1.5" tubing allows the frame connectors to overlap and then sit flush with the rear frame rails, and they also sit right against the rear floor pan. Depending on what the rules say you could weld that entire section of subframe connector to the floor.

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So I went with the one and a half by two and a half so I could slip it inside the rear subframe like this picture I got off the internet kind of, but again like you did without having to go through the rear floor board. The picture that I'll post here is I don't think a duster but it's the general idea of what I was thinking since my rear frame rails are 3 inches wide I figured the two and a half inch would slip right inside of it and then I can well weld the little area on the bottom also.
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Ok so for this first post is what I've done today so far and where I'm a little stuck as far as exactly where to put the six by six plates? But I'll get to that after I show what I've done so far and part of what I've done is lining up my uncles Eragon wire feed welder for next weekend. I took my cutter grinder and cut out the window in the back frame rail which is a perfect fit for the one and a half by two and a half rectangle stock. I took the 4 footers and used the tape to measure out 3'9" and cut a notch out of the last three inches for the front. I wanted to slip the back in far enough to weld through the hole in the bottom to ad more stability in the back by the jack stand.
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Ok some pictures would be great here, but I'm still wondering exactly how I'm going to place the six by six plates maybe bend them or cut them and reweld them to contour the rear floor board? I really don't want to weld it on the edge of the plate that seems to be a little counterproductive? And where do I place the front ones up in the drivers compartment by my feet? like back were the frame that comes through for the transmission? Or all the way up where the peddles are ?
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Also had my wife take a picture of me in the driver's seat that I set up temporarily to get proper shoulder and elbow height and she even marked it with blue tape over on the side of the car
 
WOW!!?? Really ?? No one has pictures of the weld points of a roll bar in an a body?? Okay ?
Well it looks like I'll weld this in as I interpret the rules. No problem , I'll post pictures of what I do.
 
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