A 1974 Duster - My 2nd one, 41 years later!

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How I did my fiberglass bumper to car mounts. Of course this was just the way I came up with, you can do it anyway you want. First remove all parts of the shock absorber OEM bumper mounts. With a piece of 2" wide, 3/16" thick steel bought at Home Depot, I cut four 4" pieces (two for each side) and welded them together at 90 degrees. The outside slot was put right in the center, the inside slot was 3/4" from the top, see pics. Outside slots are for side to side adjustment, inside slots in/out adjustment.

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IMG_4699 by Alexl5280, on Flickr

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IMG_4700 by Alexl5280, on Flickr

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IMG_4698 by Alexl5280, on Flickr

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I drilled a slotted hole in the center of the bumper (will be hidden by license plate) so I could hang the bumper and get it close to where it will live. This way I can figure out just where the 3rd plate goes, I made a black sharpie line on the bumper in the center of the OEM shock mount hole. Then welded the 3rd plate centered on that line.
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IMG_4703 by Alexl5280, on Flickr

Brackets on bumper. 2" by 3/16" pieces of steel welded to "c" metal.

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IMG_4702 by Alexl5280, on Flickr

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IMG_4701 by Alexl5280, on Flickr

This is the angle of the 1" by 3/16" steel that brings the mount through the OEM bumper shock hole. The piece is 6 3/8" long, not sure of the exact angle. I started chopping the angle until it fit onto the plate and went through the center of the OEM shock bumper hole. Then as you can see in pic two, I welded another 4" piece of 1" by 3/16" to the bottom of the angled piece. Then cut the slots for up/down adjustment.

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IMG_4704 by Alexl5280, on Flickr

I'll be powder coating the mounts in black.
The rear bumper with the steel mounts weighs 12.35 lbs.
 
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....just been super busy at work. I will start painting soon. Rear bumper mounts done. Need Higgs to stop over so we can position the front fender and drill holes in the right spots. After that.....the paint will fly!

I figured I could drill and install the two lower holes for the carriage bolts on either side and if additional "slotting" to the original front mounts is needed then that's what I'll do. AAR gives you the "approximate" place where the carriage bolts go, I want to be sure before I drill any more holes. I will install the grill and filler piece before I drill the remaining holes in the bumper. Makin' some slow progress.

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IMG_4710 by Alexl5280, on Flickr
 
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Looking forward to seeing it green! When you paint it, try to remember the small details from the settings you use on the gun, if you can. I like learning, especially from people that I can tell they know what they're doing! :) I have an early Christmas present being delivered today....a new Devilbiss Tekna Pro Lite! Which needle, air cap, and what pressure at the gun will be interesting. Your car is going to be VERY nice when it's done.
 
Will do JD. I know the white Summit DTM epoxy likes the Tekna Pro Lite gun at 28 psi when trigger is squeezed. Lays down with almost zero orange peel and is super easy to sand out with 600 then 800 wet/dry paper.

You will love the Devilbiss Tekna gun that is for sure!
 
Went over to the shop this morning. Sprayed bumpers and carriage bolts in white epoxy. Once they dry I'll sand lightly with 800 wet...They will be sprayed in black base and a flattened clear.

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IMG_4718 by Alexl5280, on Flickr

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IMG_4720 by Alexl5280, on Flickr
 
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Well yes. I'm not changing the process or skipping a step just because it will be painted in black and then flattened clear, still needs to be primed.
 
Looks good Alex,so when's the big day? Who has the green Challenger outside your shop?
 
The big "green day" is coming soon. I am dividing my shop in two by hanging a sheet of visqueen floor to ceiling also running ducting and venting so 1/2 of the shop can be a "make shift" spray booth. The green Challenger is the business owners next door.
 
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OK, my car is 100% in white epoxy, wet sanded to 800...smooth as smooth can be. It will be coming off the lift and set on jack stand towards the front of my shop. The doors will be coming off so I can paint the jambs when shooting the car in Green. The question is... Do I tape off and paint the fender tops, door tops, around the windows, and cowl in black now before the the Green and doors coming off??? Or should I pull the doors and paint it all in Green and then hang the doors back on and then paint the black areas??? Seems like it would be easier to paint the black Now before shooting the Green. It would be a lot less to tape off when shooting the Green. What do you think?
 
Six of one, half dozen of another. Altho, covering a black "mistake" is harder than covering a green "mistake". Keep that in mind. Sometimes tape lifts in tight corners and curves and you need to touch up a little.
 
Green first, then put car together, then paint the black. You can back mask the car with painters plastic.
 
Unmasked the car today. Cleaned and cleaned. Going to pull doors next. New clean masking/taping off is coming soon, green won't be too much longer. This car is a straight as I can get it. Yes...I am getting anxious to spray the green.

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IMG_4732 by Alexl5280, on Flickr

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IMG_4739 by Alexl5280, on Flickr
 
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What a great canvas to work with, so many hours to get to this point! I can't wait to see green either! As always, nice work Alex!
 
Awesome Alex! Paint was the only thing I farmed out on my project. Your attention to detail and level self discipline are amazing. It ain’t easy getting to green, but you’re there Dude!!
 
Waiting on door hoist to arrive to pull doors.... so I shot some green and black base coat. I will be here at the shop in the morning shooting the underside of the hood in green/clear, filler piece still needs some clear also. Anything black will be getting a flattened clear coating. Thanks to Jaws for the great deal on the scoop!

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IMG_4748 by Alexl5280, on Flickr

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IMG_4743 by Alexl5280, on Flickr

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IMG_4746 by Alexl5280, on Flickr

Hood taped off, ready for green in the morning!

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IMG_4749 by Alexl5280, on Flickr
 
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