A727 Rebuild kits redux - Rebuild kits everywhere (62-70 vs 71+)

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As I was finishing up I did a bit of final clean and paint when I noticed something that I hadn't seen before.
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Thought it was odd so put stone tip on my dremel and figured it wouldn't hurt to see what I see.
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It appears to be a surface issue... not sure what it was. I looked on the inside it it was clear. I decided to roll with it... cleaned it up and put some paint on it

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On to the next thing. :)
 
What about that place that looks like a crack? I doctored your photo with text pointing it out.
 

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I might be wrong on this but I think that is a manufacturing seam...

Photo sequence pans down from the mid of the extension where it intersects another seam and goes down to the foot. It shows the continuity of the Line all the way down.
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what do you think?
 
Definitely needed a second set of eyes. I sure hope I ducked one. It's good to catch a break every once in a while :thumblef:
 
AIV, it will be fine. Worst thing you ever would have to do is juggle the kickdown band adjustment slightly IF it whams a bit going into second at light throttle. if not you are great!
You did a magnificent job documenting it. Sort of like an engineer would need to do for others to follow.....:D
Tom
 
Thank you Tom! :cheers:
It helped me keep track of everything I did in case I need to troubleshoot later or if I wanted to replicate what I did again.

I"m new to cars, this is my first project and FABO has been a great help. I hope I can pay it forward and others find it useful in some way.
 
hello ,,,great thread.....i have a 69 727 that has striped safty ,light switch.. also leaks some wear i can't find... anyway it has a new rebuild with good stuff.(( less than 25 miles )...i have a 77. 727 trans..i know nothing about it,, but it looks dry ... no leaks..i want to use the stuff from the 69 into the 77 ...any suggestions would be app.. thanks tim
 
vipertwo2 said:
hello ,,,great thread.....i have a 69 727 that has striped safty ,light switch.. also leaks some wear i can't find... anyway it has a new rebuild with good stuff.(( less than 25 miles )...i have a 77. 727 trans..i know nothing about it,, but it looks dry ... no leaks..i want to use the stuff from the 69 into the 77 ...any suggestions would be app.. thanks tim
Click to expand...

There were quite a few internal changes between the 69 and 77 but the case is basically the same on both. As long as you swap the entire guts from the 69 into the 77 case you'll be fine. Only thing you might run into that could be different is if your car is an A-body with a factory floor shift, those cars have a 2 hole mounting eye that hangs down on the extension housing that the lower shifter bracket bolts onto. Not all 727's have that. If you need it you can use the extension housing from the 69 on the 77 case.

When you swap in the guts from the 69 make sure and check and set the total end play as it might differ from the cases. The book gives a ridiculously wide specification. I like to get it down to as close to .020" as possible so the parts aren't hammering each other on acceleration and deceleration. If you don't know you set it by the selective thrust washer between the pump and front clutch.
 
thank you....i feel better now.. i have it out now and i notice that it seems to be leaking out the dip stick hole....i have a 2500 stall.. will the fluid level be higher than the dipstick hole??? i am guessing the rubber is not sealing...what u think... also the treads are striped out the switch any fixes for that like jb weld?? heli coil ? like break the button of the switch and jb weld it in?? thanks tim
 
The fluid is higher than the hole where the dipstick goes in so that is a common leak. I generally go to NAPA and look in their O-ring assortment for a O-ring that fits the tube good and is a tight fit in the trans. Use some grease installing it and it shouldn't leak. Never ran into a stripped neutral switch. Someone must have gorilla'd it in cause those are some big threads to strip. Haven't looked for a heli-coil big enough for a neutral switch. Just have to look around, see what you can find. If you JB weld it you'd have to tap the threads out so that means buying a tap. The neutral safety switch is a very important part that I do not recommend bypassing. Do whatever it takes to restore it
 
Hi guys,
Sorry I'm coming into this late.

Tim, Thanks for the ups on the thread. You are in excellent hands with Tracy " Fishy68" :) he's tops in my book!
 
Sorry I just noticed this, but I would not have fitted the restrictor plug. I would have tapped the case to take a screw in one and only fitted it if needed. Even then I would custom size the hole.
 
Bakerlite said:
Sorry I just noticed this, but I would not have fitted the restrictor plug. I would have tapped the case to take a screw in one and only fitted it if needed. Even then I would custom size the hole.
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Yes That is I still on the table.. And may happen in the future. I'll base line the trans shifts with the cup. If I need to tweak it later I can still tap the port and fit custom orafice sizes for fine tuning while the trans in the the car.
 
Yeah, when you look at all the variables in that 2-3 shift you soon realize that a "one size fits all" cup is not the best option.
 
Great informative thread, tons of info and perfect documentation!
I just got an idea, someone should come up with Mopar "audio books" read to you by a sexy sounding voice!
 
4spdragtop said:
Great informative thread, tons of info and perfect documentation!
I just got an idea, someone should come up with Mopar "audio books" read to you by a sexy sounding voice!
Click to expand...
Thanks!
lol... Marilyn Monroe and Scarlett Johansson come to mind ... but the TTS should be selectable like a GPS. :cheers:
 
Great thread!!! That will be very helpful for my rebuild. I was searching the web for rebuild kits and ran across this thread. Thanks for the great information.

By the way, towards the end this thread you show more photos of a "crack". You are correct in that is a manufacturing seam. It is referred to as a parting line, this comes from the aluminum die casting process. The mold is in several sections that come together to form the shape of the casting. Once the molten metal injected in the mold and cools the mold separates and releases the casting. The lines you see are where the mold parting lines are.
 
AlV said:
Hi Tom, Yes I went back and forth on the setting but in the end I am within the spec even if it is a little on the tight side. I'm hoping that by doubling the springs from 6 to 12 and using the restrictor in the port to slow the apply pressure I can manage. I really wanted to get to .055, nothing left to do but put it in and see what it does :)
AlV
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Very Intresting Thread, I am just starting my First with Full Reverse Manual Valve body , Did you get it all finished and driving ?????? how did it all go
 
iam wondering about the lube hole you drilled for the sprag? what purpose does it serve if you just end up covering it up with the outer cam and spring retainer? shouldent it be drilled more inboared so it would spray at the inner race and the rollers?
 
43tutor said:
Great thread!!! That will be very helpful for my rebuild. I was searching the web for rebuild kits and ran across this thread. Thanks for the great information.

By the way, towards the end this thread you show more photos of a "crack". You are correct in that is a manufacturing seam. It is referred to as a parting line, this comes from the aluminum die casting process. The mold is in several sections that come together to form the shape of the casting. Once the molten metal injected in the mold and cools the mold separates and releases the casting. The lines you see are where the mold parting lines are.
Click to expand...
Hi 43tutor... unless one has done many of these it can be a daunting task. Just weeding through the kits and components is an exercise. lol I hope

I hope your project went well.

AlV
 
KENTON said:
Thanks for taking the time to put this thread together.
Click to expand...

You're welcome Kenton,
It was my first run at rebuilding a 727 and I wanted to document my process right from the start because my memory is getting real bad. lol

Good luck with your rebuild.

AlV
 
IRISH RT said:
Very Intresting Thread, I am just starting my First with Full Reverse Manual Valve body , Did you get it all finished and driving ?????? how did it all go
Click to expand...

Hi Irish RT,

Glad you found some time to go through the thread. I learned a lot through doing this project and plan to rebuild and Unit from a 73 and an 833 down the road.

Although the trans is put back together my Dart is still in pieces (check my build thread in the signature).

I am mating the engine and trans this week ( both numbers matching) and install that onto the front end (which I just finished a few weeks ago).

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Hopefully I can get all of this back into the car and out for final paint.

I wish I had a readout on the transmission for you but I have a lot of work left to do.

I will definitely post a review of the transmission after my first run, est. eta. march 2015.

Good luck with your build and the best advice is take your time, measure and apply generous amounts of assembly lubrication.

AlV
 
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