CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
I just made a post in it so it came back up to the top in the easiest 904-727...
thank you.
A904 complete rebuild.
- Thread starter CLAY72dart
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CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
Used this as my very makeshift slide hammer bolt is from the rear of the transmission’s support bracket.
I don’t see and deep scratches on this piece.
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
Definitely some clutch material in this pan along with a ton of metal
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
More material
Inspect everything
I had damage to the interior of the tail housing..
Someone told me recently... remember that these were mass produced and maintained with limited technology. They are resilient and surprisingly simple. .
I've never liked the paper filters. They are not for performance. I much prefer the brass screen type filters. They will flow some fluid.
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
I will keep this in mind.
j par
Well-hung Member
If you're going to use one of the performance screen filters make sure you buy an oil pan with a plug in it. That way you can change it more often as the screens don't keep out the fine stuff..
Remote they're meant for performance and people who change their transmission fluid because they race...
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
How do I get this valve body out the brake rod won’t come out?
Turn the output shaft some.
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
Okay it is out.
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
These are the front clutches some of them have worn completely away at you can tell.
As far as the brass filter being for race only, that's not true. It's more of an "old VS new" thing. The paper filters did not show up on the scene until sometime in the mid to late 60s. Before that, all that was used was the brass style. There's no denying though, that the brass style does flow more, which is certainly a benefit in performance and racing applications. More fluid flow = less wear to have particles in the fluid, so it's kinda a dual benefit. In the end, it all boils down to personal choice.
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
Lots of gunk trapped in this spring.
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
Completely apart and I have seen no actual metal wear throughout the rest of the transmission. I will still take another look at every part but I might’ve got lucky. Might just be those shredded clutches, and all of the gunk from them trapped in all of the flow areas. I will send pictures of all of the pieces individually tomorrow.
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
Going with this kit it comes with the red eagle clutches someone suggested for hopefully a longer transmission life.
Following
j par
Well-hung Member
You will want to blow the valve body apart and clean that up... I always buy a Transco two shift kit.. It comes with the instructions on the valve body and correct adjustments... And if drifting is your thing a transco 3 full manual shift....
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
Is this going to change how harsh it shifts my wife won’t drive the car if it does.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Is that good or bad?
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
You have a good point.
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
Just got the Tom hand in I’m about to start reading over it.
Plenty of great suggestions, BAnd M transmissions has a kit that I researched heavily. Last time I priced it it was about $275. It will hold 500 hp. It seemed to me that performance kits available are for 72 up.
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CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
Yeah I got lucky with my year I’m still trying to fight the right valve body kit.
Why not go with a manual reverse valve body, screws right.up. Absolutely no chance of missing a gear.
Absolute control of the transmission 24/7/7/365. Include a 3500-4000 stall converter , your golden,
If you think in anyway like I do, make it so that you can have assorted hp and still use the transmission .
I would recommend this shifter:
B and M Pro shifter, with a reverse lockout
Edit: Pro Stick
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