CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
And now your carb won't open all the way.
Can I access the band without taking the trans out and check them?Maybe your front band is too loose.
I've got some reading to do! You are right about the history of the car, you just don't know what has been done to it. But as I stated at the beginning, this car is original, all the mechanicals need refurbishing. Well, I am comparing it to 2nd to 3rd is like butter and don't even realize I am in 3rd gear it is so smooth. 1st-2nd the car shakes, its abrupt and hard. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction all of Y'all.I would recommend before you start shotgunning the issue be sure you have an issue.
IMHO go back and adjust the kick down PER THE FACTORY SHOP MANUAL.
THEN run through the diagnostics as outlined in the FSM for shift points and feel
For all you know a previous owner installed a shift kit.
Also what are you comparing to, to determine your shift is too firm.
By kickdown do you mean adjust the bands like this?I would recommend before you start shotgunning the issue be sure you have an issue.
IMHO go back and adjust the kick down PER THE FACTORY SHOP MANUAL.
THEN run through the diagnostics as outlined in the FSM for shift points and feel
For all you know a previous owner installed a shift kit.
Also what are you comparing to, to determine your shift is too firm.
Maybe your front band is too loose.
This is of little consequence.Yes it is on curb idle now. Where should the slotted rod be located when at curb idle?
The linkage not the bands or anything in the transmissionBy kickdown do you mean
Yes AJ, it feels very rough taking off and more pedal than should be.Is the engine taking a lot of throttle to take off with?
What everyone calls the KD mechanism, is actually a throttle-pressure adjuster, with the KD being a function of that. But think of that mechanism as firstly being the throttle pressure adjuster.
So as the throttle is opened, it pushes the slotted member rearwards increasing the throttle pressure at the trans. This does two things, it fights the governor as to when the shift will occur, delaying the roadspeed at which the trans will shift. And since the pressure is higher, the shift will be harsher.
Ok, so if the engine is down on power, you will naturally drive deeper into the carb, using more than normal throttle. and so I repeat; Is the engine taking a lot of throttle to take off with?
The why of the engine being down on power is another matter, from as simple as needing a tune-up, to a frozen stator in the convertor, to not running on all cylinders.
In reverse, all pressure regulation is bypassed, and the L/R servo gets whatever the pump can put out which can max out ~275 psi.
If the throttle pressure valve is being adjusted by the KD mechanism, the pressure will be higher than normal, which being maybe 90psi. By lengthening the KD rod, you increase the Part Throttle pressure. Bad idea. Especially if that now limits your throttle opening. And this is what @CudaFactHackJob is trying to get you to understand.
Now, you keep thinking the car is all original, but if the rear end has been swapped to one with a higher Torque Multiplication, then it will spin the driveshaft up faster, commanding an earlier shift. This calls for a reduction in throttle pressure to prevent delayed harsh upshifts. Or a reduction in governor pressure to get back on track.
So you could have multiple issues.
I recommend a compression test, and to at least set the timing after proving the balancer mark; to see if you even have an engine. And then a stall test.
And finally, figure out your rear gear ratio, and compare it to what it came from the factory with, if you can. Alternatively, figure out if the trans in there is what it left the factory with, if you can.
But I repeat; Is the engine taking a lot of throttle to take off with? This could be a sign of a bad TC.
well there you have it; mystery solved.Yes AJ, it feels very rough taking off and more pedal than should be.
Thank AJ for your help.By lengthening the KD rod, you increase the Part Throttle pressure. Bad idea. Especially if that now limits your throttle opening. And this is what @CudaFactHackJob is trying to get you to understand.
Yes AJ, I have to figure out what I have in the drive train. The engine runs smooth, no misses or valve noise with original wires, plugs have been replaced recently and I just re-gap them. All the plugs looked great without carbon so that should tell me all cylinders are firing. I will do a leak down test at each cylinder to find compression. Points need to be changed, good rotor and cap. I will check timing today. The carb is the BBD 2bbl and has remanufacture sticker on it from Holly. It is leaking and the car shut off at a stop light from a stuck float so, I am going to re-build the carb soon. But, with the engine running smooth, seems strong, once I get the linkage and trans sorted it should run a lot stronger from a stop, it just seems rough. Engine has never been out of the car per seller (2nd owner had it for 5 years). I will also do what you said with the KD and carb adjustments.Is the engine taking a lot of throttle to take off with?
What everyone calls the KD mechanism, is actually a throttle-pressure adjuster, with the KD being a function of that. But think of that mechanism as firstly being the throttle pressure adjuster.
So as the throttle is opened, it pushes the slotted member rearwards increasing the throttle pressure at the trans. This does two things, it fights the governor as to when the shift will occur, delaying the roadspeed at which the trans will shift. And since the pressure is higher, the shift will be harsher.
Ok, so if the engine is down on power, you will naturally drive deeper into the carb, using more than normal throttle. and so I repeat; Is the engine taking a lot of throttle to take off with?
The why of the engine being down on power is another matter, from as simple as needing a tune-up, to a frozen stator in the convertor, to not running on all cylinders.
In reverse, all pressure regulation is bypassed, and the L/R servo gets whatever the pump can put out which can max out ~275 psi.
If the throttle pressure valve is being adjusted by the KD mechanism, the pressure will be higher than normal, which being maybe 90psi. By lengthening the KD rod, you increase the Part Throttle pressure. Bad idea. Especially if that now limits your throttle opening. And this is what @CudaFactHackJob is trying to get you to understand.
Now, you keep thinking the car is all original, but if the rear end has been swapped to one with a higher Torque Multiplication, then it will spin the driveshaft up faster, commanding an earlier shift. This calls for a reduction in throttle pressure to prevent delayed harsh upshifts. Or a reduction in governor pressure to get back on track.
So you could have multiple issues.
I recommend a compression test, and to at least set the timing after proving the balancer mark; to see if you even have an engine. And then a stall test.
And finally, figure out your rear gear ratio, and compare it to what it came from the factory with, if you can. Alternatively, figure out if the trans in there is what it left the factory with, if you can.
But I repeat; Is the engine taking a lot of throttle to take off with? This could be a sign of a bad TC.
All good...5 & 7 are not getting near each other.well there you have it; mystery solved.
Fix that and your trans issues should simultaneously disappear.
I would start by making sure that the plug wires to numbers 5 and 7 are not crossed and well separated, and if good, then isolating the cylinders one by one to see if all cylinders are working. You should see a similar rpm drop on every cylinder. After that, a compression test is next. And when you do that, it is best to have all plugs out and the carb blocked WOT. Then crank each cylinder until you get two consecutive same or near same readings. I like to record the number of pumping cycles it took to reach the maximum, cuz if one takes twice as many as the others, you know something is up. Also at this time, you can study the plugs to see if it's worth putting them back in. Sometimes a cracked insulator is very difficult to see, yet the coil will instantly not fire it. Sometimes the engine will idle on it, but will refuse to respond properly as you roll in the throttle. I have never had a new plug do that, but other mechanics say they have seen it.
BTW numbers 5 and 7 wires must NOT be strung together with zipties. This encourages induction firing between them , causing the #7 to fire on the intake stroke, which is bad. Those two wires should never run side by side, and always be separated by a minimum 1 inch. The cheaper the wire, the more important this is. You can cross one wire over the other at less than 1 inch, but the crossing should be as close to 90* as you can make it, and not touching.
May all your luck be Good luck.
this is wrong and meaningless.Thank AJ for your help.
With the car warmed up and the carb on curb idle, I removed the spring and the KD rod was too long and 1/2" from the pi
I stand corrected. that is possiblePT=part throttle..he's confuzzled enough ..But ya know what; I left the spring off before and my kd would stick back a bit and cause late shifts.
Ive only had the car for 10 days Cuda! The car is 51 years old and nothing ever changed (that I can tell) so, I decided to start with safety issues 1st, steering (total rebuild entire front suspension) with a disc brake conversion, new stainless brake and fuel lines and a fuel tank. The trans was an "I'll get to it" thought. However, while I am waiting on all the parts to arrive I would pose a question about the trans to the experts of Mopars. And, the 1st thing I checked was the points, cap and rotor and yes they have gone on a long list. For you Cuda I will put them in today. Thanks for your help.What do you mean, "Points need to be changed"?? Don't mess around with used points. Points are the first thing to check in an old motor. New points are the first thing to install if there's any type of problem in an old motor. Better yet, pick up an HEI distributor off ebay for $50.99 free shipping and solve all your ignition problems. 90% of carburetor problems are the points...But I bet that won't solve your harsh 1-2..
Thank you Cuda for saving there (all the abbreviations have me goin crazy trying to figure it out)PT=part throttle..he's confuzzled enough ..But ya know what; I left the spring off before and my kd would stick back a bit and cause late shifts.
I figure is valve bodyif your VB