Advancing Cam Question

-
I got it running today.

Here's how I checked the accuracy of the 4* advance:
With it at TDC, I installed the chain in the 4* advanced position. and moved the crank (without moving the cam), until the gears and chain went on. I temp installed the timing cover and put the damper on far enough to be sure it was on the key. The timing mark moved 4* from TDC.

It seems like it idles a bit better. I had to richen the mixture screws almost a half turn. The vacuum is still low; about 6". Timing is at 35 total, as it was before. Initial is as it was before too, at about 30* (The 1200 rpm idle brings that in.) The test drive felt about the same as before. A trip to the track won't happen until September or October. Maybe that'll show something, maybe not. It cranks slow when it's hot. It did that before. I have an ignition kill switch for that.

I just realized I didn't check PV clearance. I know there was plenty when the cam was straight up. I got lucky.

Here's the compression test I did before the advance (both tests w/ engine warm, throttle open)
1) 180
2) 170
3) 185
4) 185
5) 170
6) 180
7) 170
8) 170

Here's a test I just did today after advancing the cam:
1) 150
2) 155
3) 175
4) 150
5) 150
6) 135
7) 155
8) 145

Something tells me I need a new compression gauge. There's no consistency. Plus, I would think the numbers should be higher with it advanced.
 
I got it running today.

Here's how I checked the accuracy of the 4* advance:
With it at TDC, I installed the chain in the 4* advanced position. and moved the crank (without moving the cam), until the gears and chain went on. I temp installed the timing cover and put the damper on far enough to be sure it was on the key. The timing mark moved 4* from TDC.

It seems like it idles a bit better. I had to richen the mixture screws almost a half turn. The vacuum is still low; about 6". Timing is at 35 total, as it was before. Initial is as it was before too, at about 30* (The 1200 rpm idle brings that in.) The test drive felt about the same as before. A trip to the track won't happen until September or October. Maybe that'll show something, maybe not. It cranks slow when it's hot. It did that before. I have an ignition kill switch for that.

I just realized I didn't check PV clearance. I know there was plenty when the cam was straight up. I got lucky.

Here's the compression test I did before the advance (both tests w/ engine warm, throttle open)
1) 180
2) 170
3) 185
4) 185
5) 170
6) 180
7) 170
8) 170

Here's a test I just did today after advancing the cam:
1) 150
2) 155
3) 175
4) 150
5) 150
6) 135
7) 155
8) 145

Something tells me I need a new compression gauge. There's no consistency. Plus, I would think the numbers should be higher with it advanced.
They should be higher. I can think of maybe a couple reasons why they aren't. If you didn't warm the engine to the same condition as the first time. Or, if you retarded the cam timing instead. Don't scoff at that. Even some of the most seasoned engine builders have made that mistake.
 
They should be higher. I can think of maybe a couple reasons why they aren't. If you didn't warm the engine to the same condition as the first time. Or, if you retarded the cam timing instead. Don't scoff at that. Even some of the most seasoned engine builders have made that mistake.
The engine was well warmed both times.
I used the "A" mark on the gear when I put it together.
As my neighbor, who had a strong Italian accent used to say, "I'm a no no."
 
which side of tdc did the mark move on the crank?

towards 12:00 or 3:00
 
Post #26 revealed what I expected & posted earlier. A little improvement in idle quality, but past that very little improvement that the butt-meter will feel. At the track, 4* of advance could go either way.
As D.Vizard says, only when an optimally speced cam is advanced or retarded will there be a noticeable difference; that is because all the selected components for the engine are optimised to work with the correctly selected cam & the most hp is produced. When the hp is at it's greatest, there is more hp to lose [ & for the butt-meter to feel ] than just any old cam.
 
which side of tdc did the mark move on the crank?

towards 12:00 or 3:00
1724234338699.png

(See post 35 also.)
 
Last edited:
Post #26 revealed what I expected & posted earlier. A little improvement in idle quality, but past that very little improvement that the butt-meter will feel. At the track, 4* of advance could go either way.
As D.Vizard says, only when an optimally speced cam is advanced or retarded will there be a noticeable difference; that is because all the selected components for the engine are optimised to work with the correctly selected cam & the most hp is produced. When the hp is at it's greatest, there is more hp to lose [ & for the butt-meter to feel ] than just any old cam.

You keep saying that.
This cam was designed to be installed 4 degrees advance, not straight up.
The car at the track will work better how it is now. I would bet money that with nothing in his combo changed other than the cam moved to where it should be, the car will be faster, assuming same conditions.
Regards seat of the pants, have you ever been down the track in a car?
Until a car picks up close to 3 tenths at the track it’s hard to tell the difference in gains.
Seat of the pants can’t feel a tenth or even more. Takes more than that.
Been there, done that, tons of times.
 
I consider my to be pretty good with figuring things. But I went through this years ago when a buddy and I advanced a cam in our race car. This picture is my car now. Then, I kept saying the cam should get to TDC before the crank. This picture seems to me that the cam is now retarded. I.E. the crank is past TDC, and the cam isn’t there yet. (I didn’t move the cam from TDC, just the crank to the point where the chain went on in the 4* position.) Same thing as our race car. He swore I was wrong, I swore I was right. The car had pretty good mph. It was an NHRA stocker, so it was pretty efficient.
I’m confused now! Mine moved 4*, but I have a mental block as to if it’s right. That link about bad gears isn’t helping! And, I don’t know the brand of mine.
 
If you moved the crank clockwise looking at the front to engage the woodruff (which is usually about 1:30 to start), you retarded the cam.

I'm not going to try and figure out the picture. The crank should have turned towards 12:00, counter-clockwise, to advance the cam.
 
It’s pretty simple to degree the cam and have an intake centerline number to reference rather than guessing where the cam is, or where it moved to, or how accurate the timing set is. Just get a degree wheel and do it right.
 
If you moved the crank clockwise looking at the front to engage the woodruff (which is usually about 1:30 to start), you retarded the cam.

I'm not going to try and figure out the picture. The crank should have turned towards 12:00, counter-clockwise, to advance the cam.
The crank got turned clock-wise, though it went against what I thought was right. My buddy was very sharp about stuff like that, so I went with what he said (on our stocker). Seems he was wrong.
My crank gear must be marked wrong. I checked several times to make sure I was lined up with the "A".
It’s pretty simple to degree the cam and have an intake centerline number to reference rather than guessing where the cam is, or where it moved to, or how accurate the timing set is. Just get a degree wheel and do it right.
I have the tools to do it. I put it on 108, what MP recommended. It was easier because the engine was on a stand, and the intake manifold wasn't on. I did it the way I did this time, because it has hydraulics and I didn't want a bleeding lifter to throw me off, nor did I want to pull the manifold to put a solid lifter in it.

I did it to try to help it pull harder on the track, as I mentioned. I guess I'll find out the cam being retarded helps!

When I go the changes will be: the cam retard, taller tires (26 to 28), a vent whistle in the primary side, and the jetting I had in the summer (72-75 instead of the 74-77). So that's too many things. I can always play with jets and take the whistle out, but the tires and cam are, of course, staying.

I didn't expect this to get so involved. I'm no technical writer, so it's hard to follow.

Thanks to all who helped.
 
The crank got turned clock-wise, though it went against what I thought was right. My buddy was very sharp about stuff like that, so I went with what he said (on our stocker). Seems he was wrong.
My crank gear must be marked wrong. I checked several times to make sure I was lined up with the "A".

I have the tools to do it. I put it on 108, what MP recommended. It was easier because the engine was on a stand, and the intake manifold wasn't on. I did it the way I did this time, because it has hydraulics and I didn't want a bleeding lifter to throw me off, nor did I want to pull the manifold to put a solid lifter in it.

I did it to try to help it pull harder on the track, as I mentioned. I guess I'll find out the cam being retarded helps!

When I go the changes will be: the cam retard, taller tires (26 to 28), a vent whistle in the primary side, and the jetting I had in the summer (72-75 instead of the 74-77). So that's too many things. I can always play with jets and take the whistle out, but the tires and cam are, of course, staying.

I didn't expect this to get so involved. I'm no technical writer, so it's hard to follow.

Thanks to all who helped.

I kinda doubt Mopar would recommend a cam ground on a 108 to be installed straight up at 108. Most all cams are installed 4 degrees advanced, so in your case at 104
 
The crank got turned clock-wise, though it went against what I thought was right. My buddy was very sharp about stuff like that, so I went with what he said (on our stocker). Seems he was wrong.
My crank gear must be marked wrong. I checked several times to make sure I was lined up with the "A".

I have the tools to do it. I put it on 108, what MP recommended. It was easier because the engine was on a stand, and the intake manifold wasn't on. I did it the way I did this time, because it has hydraulics and I didn't want a bleeding lifter to throw me off, nor did I want to pull the manifold to put a solid lifter in it.

I did it to try to help it pull harder on the track, as I mentioned. I guess I'll find out the cam being retarded helps!

When I go the changes will be: the cam retard, taller tires (26 to 28), a vent whistle in the primary side, and the jetting I had in the summer (72-75 instead of the 74-77). So that's too many things. I can always play with jets and take the whistle out, but the tires and cam are, of course, staying.

I didn't expect this to get so involved. I'm no technical writer, so it's hard to follow.

Thanks to all who helped.
Are you using a degree wheel in all this mess? I mean seriously.
 
The crank got turned clock-wise, though it went against what I thought was right. My buddy was very sharp about stuff like that, so I went with what he said (on our stocker). Seems he was wrong.
My crank gear must be marked wrong. I checked several times to make sure I was lined up with the "A".

I have the tools to do it. I put it on 108, what MP recommended. It was easier because the engine was on a stand, and the intake manifold wasn't on. I did it the way I did this time, because it has hydraulics and I didn't want a bleeding lifter to throw me off, nor did I want to pull the manifold to put a solid lifter in it.

I did it to try to help it pull harder on the track, as I mentioned. I guess I'll find out the cam being retarded helps!

When I go the changes will be: the cam retard, taller tires (26 to 28), a vent whistle in the primary side, and the jetting I had in the summer (72-75 instead of the 74-77). So that's too many things. I can always play with jets and take the whistle out, but the tires and cam are, of course, staying.

I didn't expect this to get so involved. I'm no technical writer, so it's hard to follow.

Thanks to all who helped.

What confuses the stuff even more is the multiple key ways are on the crank and not the cam.

In reality you are RETARDING the crank with those timing sets rather than advancing the cam.

The end result is the same but if you don’t understand you have to retard the crank rather than advance the cam it can make it easier to think it through.

Of course, if you wanted to retard the cam and you had a multiple key way gear on the crank you’d want to ADVANCE the crank to retard the cam.

Hopefully that makes sense. The fact of it is using timing sets like those you move the crank to get what you want and not the cam.

And to do that you have to think backwards or you end up moving the cam timing the wrong way.
 
I kinda doubt Mopar would recommend a cam ground on a 108 to be installed straight up at 108. Most all cams are installed 4 degrees advanced, so in your case at 104

There were some of the circle track grinds that went on straight up.

I do know the 284/484 and the 292/509 cams in the early 1980’s all went in straight up.
 
I get the shade tree stuff and hillbilly engineering. Some thing need to be done once and done right. Cam timing to me is a non negotiable deal when trying to shade tree it. Get the tools, use them and make sure it's right the first time.

Seen too many cams ground off, then the timing set is a total mess. Line up the dots and the cam was 12* degrees retarded when it was supposed to be +4. Couldn't imagine how that turd would have run.

Bummer about the outcome.
 
Imo, the cranking pressure test is showing what was done.
Lower cranking pressure…….. cam is retarded compared to before.

Fwiw, and I wouldn’t have installed it like this, but the MP engine manual shows the P4120233 292/.508 cam to be installed at 108…….at the retainer.
 
Last edited:
Imo, the cranking pressure test is showing what was done.
Lower cranking pressure…….. cam is was retarded.
I agree but something else is going on, the gauge has to be faulty. A 4 degree swing (either way) isn’t changing cranking compression by 30 numbers.
 
If the cam timing wasn’t verified, and all that happened was the bottom gear got moved to another slot, and it happened to be the “retarded” slot……… my experience with those timing sets is that……. You moved the “cam” 4*, which is 8* on the wheel.
 
Most all cams are installed 4 degrees advanced,
This Post is NOT a reflection on you, B3432w5, nor anyone else, nor to anyones understanding.
This post is just cuz this is what most of us were taught and believed.
(We used to be able to go into those quote-boxes and make changes, and if I still could, I would have erased your name from it.
I tried to delete the entire box and just use a quote, but the program wouldn't even allow that. So, please forgive me, I made a mistake.)
That said, everything hereafter is directed at a street car;
IMO,
a split-pattern cam, can be installed anywhere within about a 12* window from 4 retarded to 8 advanced. I mean it's hard for me to imagine needing a bigger window, and I think that 12* is really really generous.
Moving the cam does several things.
Number one;

Probably the most obvious is that advancing the cam increases the cylinder pressure, which generally increases bottom end torque. If you have a 3000 stall convertor, who cares about 5 or 6 psi. Put it wherever you want, in the window.
But, with a low-stall and a low cylinder pressure, every stinking psi is important and that is why guys advance the crap out of idle-Timing, namely, to get a few more ftlbs of torque.
If your engine already has a generous amount of cylinder pressure, then there is no need to advance the cam, or better said; you might find a better ICL.
IMO;
the number on the cam card only reflects the grinders opinion, based on the average joe stuffing a too-big cam into a too-low pressure engine, so the grinder wants us to have the best experience as is possible, and 4* could be it. I said could be, he's just protecting his azz, cuz he doesn't want to hear about your 95psi 318 falling on it's face.
Number two;
Moving the ICL, moves the overlap period. Overlap, from the time that engine vacuum peaks, has the potential, with headers, to build hp, one atta time, thru the torque peak, to the Power peak, and a bit beyond.
If you have log manifolds, overlap is just a lumpy idle, and you can kiss the power bulge goodbye..
Moving the overlap, tunes not just where the power peaks, but also how big it can grow. So a 4* advance, peaks a a lil sooner, and the nut behind the wheel with 3.23s is a happy guy.
But if you're running 3.91s , 4* advanced may not be optimal.
In fact, if your combo has plenty of compression, and is running headers, and big gears, those 4* advance may be limiting your top-end power; you know, 200 rpm thru the traps could be just what yur looking for.
Number three.
As to Fuel mileage on the hiway.
No matter what streetable-cam that you install, when you add the compression degrees to the power degrees, yur always gonna get a number that varies somewhere between about 220 to 240. You the installer can choose, within that 12* window, how much to give either way.
Suppose you have selected a cam in the which this number is 225 degrees. Suppose this engine already has a generous DCR, and you don't need the typical 125 degrees of compression, but you installed it there anyway. This leaves just 100 degrees for the Power stroke, which is getting to be pretty small for a streeter. That works great going thru the power peak, cuz of the sheer number of power strokes.
But below the Torque peak, a lot of gas-pressure is going straight out the tailpipe. That is energy that could have been used to propel the vehicle, and so, your car is a gas-hog.
Now Suppose you move that cam, and trade away 5* from Compression and give it to Power. You still have 120 degrees compression ,but now also have 105* power!. that's plus 5%.
Yes you will lose Cranking cylinder pressure, so you may, I say may, want to compensate for the loss, it depends how much you started with.
Personal experience
I have played this game with a 292/292/108 single pattern cam, all summer, moving it all thru the 12* window, looking for torque and or mpg; I couldn't find what I wanted.
The Compression plus Power on that 292cam was 212. The engine was at 11.3. At 4* advanced, Compression degrees were 110, and Power was 102 . At 8*advanced, compression was 114 to power at 98* and lordy that was hard on gas. Lots of midrange tho. This cam taught me about the Compression plus Power relationship.
I pulled that highly mismatched cam ,
and next I installed a 270/276/110, and hot-daymn !
Compression plus Power was up to 230 now. With 119 to Compression, that left 111 for power, and now she totally eclipsed the former crappy fuel mileage. and at 119 Compression, the bottom end was , dare I say phenomenal, compared to the 292 cam at 110. Cylinder pressure was way up!
The following winter I made some changes to decrease the very high cylinder pressure, and retimed the cam for a lil of that 292 top-end rush.
For me, this was now ideal.
I was very sad when that cam dropped lobes
.


The current cam is 230/237/110, and it has a
Compression plus power of 219. Predictably the fuel economy sucks again. But it pulls pretty good at the top, and has more than enough at the bottom, however, I have been waiting for a long time, for it to wear out, cuz I already have my eye on a replacement cam;
In conclusion,
to me, now,
the ICL is only used to to trade degrees between Compression and Power, within that 12* window, and/or to keep the overlap more or less centered, if a little biased........

other notes;
> this not the whole of it, just the parts that matter to me.

>I have a clutch, so tuning for the chosen cam install can be a bit of a chore, not having a converter in which to bury mistakes.
>I would still be running the 270 cam, had it not dropped lobes a few years later.
>If you install an overdrive, onto an engine that is already spewing high pressure gasses from a short power stroke; then as the rpm decreases, this will allow ever more gasses to be spewed. Thus your hiway fuel economy may actually get worse with the reduced cruise rpm. To this I can attest.
>For a streeter; This all only works with a split pattern cam, so that the EFFECTIVE overlap remains similar, anywhere in the window. If you chose a single pattern cam, yur kindof stuck having the overlap centered within a degree or two, and just drive it, else you rapidly lose effective overlap, which is a power loss.

Ok so, as a famous man likes to say;
"drive thru."
 
Last edited:
Imo, the cranking pressure test is showing what was done.
Lower cranking pressure…….. cam is was retarded.

Fwiw, and I wouldn’t have installed it like this, but the MP engine manual shows the P4120233 292/.508 cam to be installed at 108…….at the retainer.
I agree!
 
I appreciate everyone's advice and ideas, I really do. i tried to include as many details as I could, and I believe I have it kinda screwed up.
I'm good, I really am.
:thumbsup::thankyou:
 
-
Back
Top