Aftermarket gears?

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It’s also the smallest gear on the shaft.

You have to apply the clutch. With a clutch like you have you don’t apply the clutch. It’s like a toggle switch.

It’s either on or off. That breaks parts.
I've been dealing with it for many years. It's my passion HaHa
 
have a chat with paul cangialosi

he seems to have little problem in finding diverse gear sets for all sorts of 4 and 5 speed boxes
i.e he has contacts

granted some of this stuff comes from taiwan and korea BUT he's the kinda guy who aint gonna promote JUNK

look up paul cangialosi gearbox video

contact detail below the video every time

if someone makes a nice better quality gear set and syncros at reasonable cost he will know


5Speeds Transmission Home Page

his site never really shows the services and products he offers. appears to be a "One man band" who fixes manual gearboxes....
i.e id take his advice and a slightly higher price over a purchase with no support direct from another supplier, any day of the week.

had a few bits off him all round good guy

Dave
 
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Problem is, I can't find any company that makes them.

Just so you know, when I learned how to not break a gear box it was from Joe Liberty. I did exactly what you are doing. I was looking for the 9310 gear set.

A few minutes into the conversation he asked what the issues were. I told him I can't keep third gear in one piece.

He asked about the clutch. When I told him I had a 3 paddle disc and 2400 pounds of plate pressure he told me that he couldn't make a gear that clutch wouldn't destroy.

That's when he schooled me on clutches. Still being a little wobbly on his thinking, I called the guy at Jerico and told him what I was doing.

He said the same thing Liberty said, and that was he couldn't make a gear set to take that either.

The upshot is it's not that the gears are weak or old. The fact is these parts breaking clutches have set back stick racing for decades.

I don't like to see you looking for a unicorn to plow your field when you have a perfectly good draft horse sitting there.

The 833 isn't some weak sister to the Muncie or the T10. There is a reason why they made adapters to put Chrysler boxes behind GM engines.
 
Just so you know, when I learned how to not break a gear box it was from Joe Liberty. I did exactly what you are doing. I was looking for the 9310 gear set.

A few minutes into the conversation he asked what the issues were. I told him I can't keep third gear in one piece.

He asked about the clutch. When I told him I had a 3 paddle disc and 2400 pounds of plate pressure he told me that he couldn't make a gear that clutch wouldn't destroy.

That's when he schooled me on clutches. Still being a little wobbly on his thinking, I called the guy at Jerico and told him what I was doing.

He said the same thing Liberty said, and that was he couldn't make a gear set to take that either.

The upshot is it's not that the gears are weak or old. The fact is these parts breaking clutches have set back stick racing for decades.

I don't like to see you looking for a unicorn to plow your field when you have a perfectly good draft horse sitting there.

The 833 isn't some weak sister to the Muncie or the T10. There is a reason why they made adapters to put Chrysler boxes behind GM engines.
OK , I get it , my clutch is "junk" , but it was fine for 22 years previously of power shifting , racing etc. The only other factor was I had 2 heavy passengers when I smoked 3rd gear. 500 lbs extra will do that. . I'll be fine , if not , then I'll deal with it. The car made MANY passes down the rack with slicks and did just fine with that exact clutch set up.
 
OK , I get it , my clutch is "junk" , but it was fine for 22 years previously of power shifting , racing etc. The only other factor was I had 2 heavy passengers when I smoked 3rd gear. 500 lbs extra will do that. . I'll be fine , if not , then I'll deal with it. The car made MANY passes down the rack with slicks and did just fine with that exact clutch set up.


Yup, I understand. It’s the cumulative effect of all those shifts. I forget, are you using a 3 paddle or a 6 paddle disc?

If it’s 3 you can order a 6 and that will calm it down a bit.

Also you can drop the plate load way down. I forgot where I started getting into issues but I think I could run the 6 paddle down to 1500 pounds and the 3 paddle down to 1000 pounds.

Any lighter than that and it would make enough heat to blow the friction material right off of the disc.

That would help a bunch.

The other thing about third gear is it turns the fastest on the main shaft. So not only are we dealing with the smallest gear on the shaft, plus it’s on the end of the shaft and it’s turning pretty close to crank rpm.

It’s multiple issues. Anything you can do to take hit away from the clutch will help.

An aluminum flywheel is a big deal too. All that rotational inertia breaks parts too. Or helps break them.

I had a guy tell me that when the clutch is right in these cars shifting into 4th gear should feel like flushing a toilet.

He wasn’t wrong.
 
67 Slimer, May I ask what times your car turns, and what the 60 ft. are? What's been done to the engine and chase? A video of your car leaving the line would be nice too.
 
67 Slimer, May I ask what times your car turns, and what the 60 ft. are? What's been done to the engine and chase? A video of your car leaving the line would be nice too.
Haven't run the car in years. It's basically a street car now but might get to the track next season. Can't really afford the race anymore or risk breaking However , I don't remember all the details but it was a 12.20 car with cast iron 2.02 heads (before the eddys were on) Definitely felt a difference after the head swap. I'm not looking to break record or parts , I like to cruise and rip some gears without having to worry about sweeping up parts.
 
The clutch tamer man who posts occasionally, summed it up a while back

some initial clutch slip is key to a happy trans and can get you off the line faster

if it bites like a rottweiler, and you buttock lifts from the seat base and the seat back groans when you try to press the peddle down, its probably overkill on the plate material and clamping force of the cover

basically organic clutch plates are cheaper than a whole trans or axle


Dave
 
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67 Slimer, May I ask what times your car turns, and what the 60 ft. are? What's been done to the engine and chase? A video of your car leaving the line would be nice too.

The clutch tamer man who posts occasionally, summed it up a while back

some initial clutch slip is key to a happy trans and can get you off the line faster

if it bites like a rottweiler, and you buttock lifts from the seat base and the seat back groans when you try to press the peddle down, its probably overkill on the plate material and clamping force of the cover

basically organic clutch plates are cheaper than a whole trans or axle


Dave
it literally feels like I'm getting rearended by a locomotive when i dump the clutch. Easiest way to explain it. So keeping my PP , what disc do you recommend? street driving but I want to rip it occasionally without it slipping.
 
I think the best clutch setup for your car would be a clutch that is very close to the original 340 factory clutch. Which if I remember correctly was a 2300# Borg Beck pressure plate with a rag disc( what we called them back in the day) or to day, an organic disc. You could use a diaphragm pressure plate but keep the static pressure around the same 2300#. That should soften the hit some and keep the trans happy in a street car. You don't need anything in that 3000 to 3200# with an overly aggressive clutch disc, like a paddle disc or a Center Force II. there just parts breakers.
 
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