All cylinders filling with water

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OldmanRick said:
Just another thought.......if by chance this was a torque issue, i'd borrow another wrench and double check your readings. You never know if the original had a malfunction?
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and even the trick three hundred dollar snap on torquewrench will not read correct if it gets dropped.i never use a clicker type always a beam torque wrench:-k
 
lilcuda said:
You said you're running ARP studs and you only torqued them to 95 ft lbs? If that's the case, it's blown head gaskets due to insufficient clamping force. The ARP instructions say to torque them to 110 ft lbs with ARP lubricant.

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/144-4001.pdf
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I only torqued mine to 100 ft lbs and they havent blown .I didnt torque down the studs ,i just snuged them .20 passes at 6500 rpm under its belt with no issues .I used cheapo head gaskets as well and didnt use the ARP lube either.I did torque them in 4 steps though (like i do with any head gasket) snug ,35 ,75 ,100 ,then double check the final .I just cleaned the deck with razor blades and alcohol.I really think the OP has another issue for both heads to leak in all cylinders .Believe it or not i have torqued down heads on a small block Chevy before without a torque wrench and they didnt leak ...
 
Tell me something,if the heads were not torque right and it leak between the head and gasket would he see water leaking down the out side of the block.
 
And, we are not talking only one head, but both...
C
 
No water visible on the outside of the block.

Just waking up here in California. Going to start on the installation in about an hour.
 
If the dowel length checked ok i'd look at the bolt hole depth and the studs. Like Rob said - the studs have to fit properly and if the decks were cut you may have an issue there. If the nut is bottoming out on the threads you will get a false reading. If there are shiney spots on the top end of the studs where the threads stop that is what happened. You can cut studs down... I do it on main studs for the oil pump all the time. You need to be careful, slow so it doesn't get really hot, and repair the treads when you're done. Also - you NEED to use the right lube on the threads, torque in steps to what ARP tells you. By using oil you are not loading the fastener to what it's designed to operate at. The moly paste is much more lubricating than oil - because oil's nt as good the spec you torque to needs to be much higher to get the same clamping.
 
!!MAN!! We' all sittn' here thinkin DAMN glad this isn' MY engine!!!
 
I keep thinking it's going to something obvious. The fact that this engine was just freshly started, even though it went to 240 degrees, it wasn't under a load or under full throttle. If this thing can suck in coolant just sitting there, and on all 8 cylinders and the crankcase, I think it'll be something big and obvious.

But...ya never know.
 
Do you have avacuum line that could be a coolant passage on the intake manifold? If so thats how coolant may be getting in all the cylnders.
 
Snake said:
Tell me something,if the heads were not torque right and it leak between the head and gasket would he see water leaking down the out side of the block.
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I'v been thinking the same thing sense I'v seen all this business about the dowel pins being to long.....seems like there would be water squirtin out between the heads and block. It will be interesting to see what the verdict is here.
just out of curiousity, what heads do you have on this motor?
 
Sounds like something is plugged and blocking coolant flow out of the block. Like maybe something near the t-stat or in a coolant passage? Maybe somehow coolant circulation was reversed? Not likely.

Almost has to be something is blocked since it heated up real fast and boiled over, likely means that it wasn't circulating properly, i.e., not going through the rad/getting exposed to air and going back in to the block. Did you check the water pump for correct operation? Bypass hose in correct place? Running a t-stat? Is it in right with the little thingy oriented right?

Another possibility might be old coolant or water or crud from cleaning in the block that never got blown out. You would have hopefully seen that though if you had it on a stand and had to turn it over.

Never seen water in all cylinders myself and I've seen enough hydro-locked motors or blown head gaskets. Two adjacent or maybe one full bank but not all 8 in an opposed engine. Has to be a coolant flow issue that is common to both banks.
 
it sounds like the water jacket is leaking into the lifter valley somehow... or somehow even into a valve covers? how is the pcv setup on this engine? this is whacked
 
Forgot to ask if you bled the air out of the cooling system during start up? Air pockets/hot spots kill engines.

Only instance where bleeding is not necessary is if the point where you add coolant is lower than the highest point in the cooling system like in some FWD cars. Otherwise you need to burp it.

Other than that I have nothing.
 
Spent the day shopping with my wife,and she asked me a few times what i was thinking about (she always knows when im thinking about motors and cars).It was this .Really got me stumped on this deal .Doesnt affect me ,but its driving me crazy trying to figure it out.Water leaking into all 8 cylinders ,and there is no leak in the heads them selves ,no external leak between the block and heads ,heads are sitting flush against the block and arent warped .I just dont get it .What am i not seeing ? Dude there has got to be water leaking into the intake plenum somehow to fill all 8 holes .Im gunna have to go with a crack in the intake .Somehow water must be leaking between the crossover part in the front into the plenum ...
 
I vote bad torque wrench and heads were not clamped down hard enough. That or the studs are too long and he is getting a false reading when the nut bottoms out on the threads of the stud.
 
Mad Dart said:
I vote bad torque wrench and heads were not clamped down hard enough. That or the studs are too long and he is getting a false reading when the nut bottoms out on the threads of the stud.
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Gasket clamping issue. If the dowels aren't the issue, it sounds like the HG isn't getting proper crush, studs length would be next up.
 
crackedback said:
Gasket clamping issue. If the dowels aren't the issue, it sounds like the HG isn't getting proper crush, studs length would be next up.
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Yeah I seen the dowels were't the issue so I figured I would guess some more.... weird stuff going on for sure..... It's not my engine and it is still driving me nutzzzz.:banghead:
 
Shocker, I feel the same, I have no dog in this fight, but the beauty of the population of FABO-TOWN, is all the ideas getting thrown out there...my uneductated guess is cracked intake on the bottom , then getting down into all the cylinders.
 
Update.......Both heads with new head gaskets are on and torqued at 35 right now. I will torque again tomorrow morning up to 70 then tomorrow afternoon at 110. Dowel depth and diameter is fine. Studs look great, with plenty of room to tighten them up. I sure do appreciate all the help.
 
HemiTM said:
Update.......Both heads with new head gaskets are on and torqued at 35 right now. I will torque again tomorrow morning up to 70 then tomorrow afternoon at 110. Dowel depth and diameter is fine. Studs look great, with plenty of room to tighten them up. I sure do appreciate all the help.
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Is there a reason you are waiting to torque the heads? I always finish them up right then making sure to do the proper sequence.
What gaskets are you using?
 
I have a feeling it was a stud issue. Not compressing tthe gasket properly. I honestly do not know what brand head gasket is being used. The guy that did my machine work handed them to me this morning and said "here, use these they are much better than the Felpro`s"

The reason I am waiting on torquing them.....I am be patient and letting everything settle in so to speak.
 
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