Thank you.
My original answer was no exactly all inclusive but I just meant to go get to the idea of the engine was beat on. And it was. Enter all the wonderful thing that happen when you beat an engine to death.
And so it starts... 340 build
- Thread starter rumblefish360
- Start date
-
Thank you.
My original answer was no exactly all inclusive but I just meant to go get to the idea of the engine was beat on. And it was. Enter all the wonderful thing that happen when you beat an engine to death.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
You have rod bearings and a main nearest that piston with the rings broke... I'd say it's safe to assume, detonation played in that, butted or not....though people sometimes break them when removing the piston via hammer and driver to the backside and out the deck passing by the cylinder ridge. You can put a twist in them upon installation..that's always a good way screw the pooch, make sure not to do that
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
How makes this?[/QUOTE]
It was in a can, clearish blue, and stank to high heaven. Old school.
The plugs are meant to pop out ,obviously ,you know ...like if you have nothing but water in the engine and it freezes "so that the block doesn't crack "... But we don't want them popping out on their own under pressure at 6500 RPMs either so we use RTV ...though some say that helps'en slip out faster..or mild loctite... or dry even for some...or indianhead..or
We had a blue loctite for the freeze plugs on the block line at the engine factory...
dodge freak
Well-Known Member
I would never use rtv on freeze plugs. Even dry would be better
Key words high lighted. Not that I'd disagree but...
true, no ridge.
Ahhhh, yea, think I got this, but it is a good mention anyway.
It was in a can, clearish blue, and stank to high heaven. Old school.
The plugs are meant to pop out ,obviously ,you know ...like if you have nothing but water in the engine and it freezes "so that the block doesn't crack "... But we don't want them popping out on their own under pressure at 6500 RPMs either so we use RTV ...though some say that helps'en slip out faster..or mild loctite... or dry even for some...or indianhead..or
View attachment 1715224593[/QUOTE]
They are not actually "freeze plugs" They are core plugs, they are not meant to pop out, and they won't save your block in the event of freezing.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
What forphorty said X2 core sand removal hole plugs (also why the bigger figure 8 holes in the late 440 decks)
but we still do not want them popping out
NO SILICONE
there is a difference in leak proofing and pop out proofing
I like to use ductile top rings to hold off detonation results for a little while but detonation will break anything
and I do not think I'm the tuner that IQ 52 appears to be- but tune tune tune
but we still do not want them popping out
NO SILICONE
there is a difference in leak proofing and pop out proofing
I like to use ductile top rings to hold off detonation results for a little while but detonation will break anything
and I do not think I'm the tuner that IQ 52 appears to be- but tune tune tune
I know this is over a year old thread but I was just wondering if you ever got those 340s together.
Thanks for Inquiring. Technically no, but stupid close.
Right now the 340 sits in a bag behind the 360-6pack.
Just a week or so ago I got my TQ back from Bobby. I need a choke for that carb but have an electric choke TQ that I will swap on to start and run for the time being.
The blue intake needs paint. It’s all orange because I had a lot of it. And I need a converter for the 904, the only spendy part to get. I’m working on the heads now. And failed to take pictures of those! And a few other things.
The plan went Ka-Boom in my face. So very embarrassing .... but **** happens, thought it would be quick-n-easy since “I Thought” ........ and there’s the problem, LOL!
And I ate humble pie.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Things delayed is my life.... Run a contracting business and you'll find out!
I like the grille on the wall.... a true GARAGE there!
I like the grille on the wall.... a true GARAGE there!
Thanks, the grill is for my Magnum after I put in the last day of work.
I was in home improvements for about 7 years before my current career job. Outside stuff. Windows, roofs, siding, decks......
I had a small side biz working on cars for a few years in addition to working 12-8 am’s.
You are certainly busier!
Inside the garage are 3 semi disassembled/assembled engines, 2 cars and to many parts.
I’ll just add a tid bit about this build and drop a teaser...
New slugs and a last minute cam change.
The ring lands were distorted on the old TRW slugs (as we know) and the cam intended, it’s moving to the Magnum for the 10/10/20 Rusty Muscle Car meet with and held by member @AustinGriggs down south in Alabama @ Jakes Dragway.
I was in home improvements for about 7 years before my current career job. Outside stuff. Windows, roofs, siding, decks......
I had a small side biz working on cars for a few years in addition to working 12-8 am’s.
You are certainly busier!
Inside the garage are 3 semi disassembled/assembled engines, 2 cars and to many parts.
I’ll just add a tid bit about this build and drop a teaser...
New slugs and a last minute cam change.
The ring lands were distorted on the old TRW slugs (as we know) and the cam intended, it’s moving to the Magnum for the 10/10/20 Rusty Muscle Car meet with and held by member @AustinGriggs down south in Alabama @ Jakes Dragway.
Well, it's been hell getting this thing done with every dang thing being thrown my way. I have never taken, gotten stopped or been re routed in life so much as it has now been 2 freakin years....and I'm still not done. (Amazing I tell ya! Waitng on a custom torque converter so I can measure up a driveshaft length.)
Rather than drag on a slow as hell thread, I just dropped this embarrassing quick RE-build and do it proper...., OK, just better all around.... So I present you with... the test run engine stand after break in.
YES! I know the header is leaking....
4 mufflers because I like my cool neighbors and don't want one of them dying when i start/rev it up. (There really old....)
I'll go through the parts used in the next post, later on.
OH! I'd like to thank tose that have PM'd me with questions as well as wondering what happened to this disaster of a quick rebuild.
(I didn't want an Uncle Tony comment!)
Double extra thanks to @71DodgeDemon340
Now if I can figure out WTF I'm doing on You Tube..... LMAO.
Time to read up I guess...
Rather than drag on a slow as hell thread, I just dropped this embarrassing quick RE-build and do it proper...., OK, just better all around.... So I present you with... the test run engine stand after break in.
YES! I know the header is leaking....
4 mufflers because I like my cool neighbors and don't want one of them dying when i start/rev it up. (There really old....)
I'll go through the parts used in the next post, later on.
OH! I'd like to thank tose that have PM'd me with questions as well as wondering what happened to this disaster of a quick rebuild.
(I didn't want an Uncle Tony comment!)
Double extra thanks to @71DodgeDemon340
Now if I can figure out WTF I'm doing on You Tube..... LMAO.
Time to read up I guess...
Last edited:
If it makes you feel better, I am likely worse in the layers-of-stuff department. It makes me smile to see one I'm not the only one with a project buried behind another project, de-railed by yet another project. If I need something out of my shop cabinet, I have to move three tranny's, two big-*** rubbermaids, a box full of extra slant parts, and a makeshift table holding all the carb rebuild candidates for the D150. Oh yeah, and the gas welding cart. It's a wonder I ever get anything done.
Oh yea! Singing my song there brother! I’m a B3 kit and 16 pushrods away from starting my 6 pack engine. The wife TF headed engine took top spot and I screwed something up. It’s coming back out in the spring. I have piles of big hardware in my way of doing most anything simple.
Thanks for Inquiring. Technically no, but stupid close.
Right now the 340 sits in a bag behind the 360-6pack.
Just a week or so ago I got my TQ back from Bobby. I need a choke for that carb but have an electric choke TQ that I will swap on to start and run for the time being.
The blue intake needs paint. It’s all orange because I had a lot of it. And I need a converter for the 904, the only spendy part to get. I’m working on the heads now. And failed to take pictures of those! And a few other things.
The plan went Ka-Boom in my face. So very embarrassing .... but **** happens, thought it would be quick-n-easy since “I Thought” ........ and there’s the problem, LOL!
And I ate humble pie.
View attachment 1715465859 View attachment 1715465860
How do you like that little MIG welder? I have the same model and like mine a lot.
Very good. Though it did take a good bit once and now the handle is cracked and the top end swivels a bit making welding a challenge from time to time. I’ll get to use it again soon for the 8-3/4 back brace and perch gussets. The wife got that for me as a present.
In short.. I don’t have all the pictures of every step taken. I just simply got busy and forgot to take the snap shots.
Below I am setting ring gap as per the KB instructions. I had my son and his friend asking if they could get a bit dirty helping out. So I let them file a few rings and install a few pistons.
Using simple rubber 3/8 hose over the connecting rod bolts and a “Wizard or Oz” Oil can with straight 30 weight to lube up the piston skirts, the pistons went in with that simple hammer tap.
Below I am setting ring gap as per the KB instructions. I had my son and his friend asking if they could get a bit dirty helping out. So I let them file a few rings and install a few pistons.
Using simple rubber 3/8 hose over the connecting rod bolts and a “Wizard or Oz” Oil can with straight 30 weight to lube up the piston skirts, the pistons went in with that simple hammer tap.
Next was the rod and then main caps torqued to factory specs, then the standard oil pump and windage tray.
Do know this about the windage tray. There are different variations out there. The early OE tray is for the 273/318/340 only because the holes in the trays attaching points are narrower than the 360’s. The last offering from MP has oblong holes for a universal fitment.
Also, open up the windage trays louvers for quicker and easier oil escape into the pan.
Do know this about the windage tray. There are different variations out there. The early OE tray is for the 273/318/340 only because the holes in the trays attaching points are narrower than the 360’s. The last offering from MP has oblong holes for a universal fitment.
Also, open up the windage trays louvers for quicker and easier oil escape into the pan.
The stock oil pan was reused. Always test for the oil pan to make sure that not only the rails are straight and not wavy and bent, but also for oil pump clearance which is often a minor issue with high volume oil pumps that hit the rear corner of the pan. Tightening up the oil pan without clearance can puncture the pan. If your high volume oil pump hits the pan, use a BFH (Big Freakin Hammer) to provide a little extra clearance.
This time around I used the Edelbrock Gaskachinch dressing to help set the gasket down to stay in place. This rubber cement glue works really nice for something like this.
To check clearance for the oil pump, no gasket was used. Clay on the oil pump was placed to see if it gets pushed aside when the oil pan is test fitted. With plenty of room, no BFH was needed. Now you can lay your gasket down and bolt on the pan.
This time around I used the Edelbrock Gaskachinch dressing to help set the gasket down to stay in place. This rubber cement glue works really nice for something like this.
To check clearance for the oil pump, no gasket was used. Clay on the oil pump was placed to see if it gets pushed aside when the oil pan is test fitted. With plenty of room, no BFH was needed. Now you can lay your gasket down and bolt on the pan.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Oh yea! Singing my song there brother! I’m a B3 kit and 16 pushrods away from starting my 6 pack engine. The wife TF headed engine took top spot and I screwed something up. It’s coming back out in the spring. I have piles of big hardware in my way of doing most anything simple.
LOL...don’t feel too bad about screwing something up. Monday morning I had a short block together except for the oil pan. I had milled the pistons for the CR I wanted, and I assumed I remembered the combustion chamber volume, so I didn’t CC them again.
And...I was off by 5 cc’s. The only good thing was the heads were small, so I could save it.
I had to pull the pistons and rods, knock the pistons off the rods, mill some more off the pistons, clean all that stuff up and put it back together.
As of this morning, I’m now where I was on Monday.
I should have NEVER trusted my memory.
Next step is to use some clay again and place it on top of the piston. I did it in 3 spots not knowing at this point if the stock head was going to make it on there or if the used up 26 year old Edelbrock heads were going on top.
Below is the clearance with the stock head. Measure up how much room there is with a simple device and now you know how much clearance you have and what head gasket you can order. Check the center of the piston and the edges to make sure of there height.
The bridge and dial gauge are inexpensive. Very helpful and at this point, easy to set up. Also at this time, you can take the time to find TDC with a degree wheel. It’ll be helpful for the next step....
Below is the clearance with the stock head. Measure up how much room there is with a simple device and now you know how much clearance you have and what head gasket you can order. Check the center of the piston and the edges to make sure of there height.
The bridge and dial gauge are inexpensive. Very helpful and at this point, easy to set up. Also at this time, you can take the time to find TDC with a degree wheel. It’ll be helpful for the next step....
Oh geeezzz! Hate hate hate hate that! I did write down the pertinent information on this build. I cannot find it now. Building three engines at once leaves the garage a minor looking disaster. While it was organized, and paperwork was kept correct in their spots, now that I’m done by several weeks everything is in one pile. And I can’t find everything! Super annoying. So, this leads to a very in general overview build thread. Disappointing!
But, nonetheless, here it is!
Next you install the cam and degree it in.
(No pictures, sorry, but there’s the cam card.)
The cam is a Comp XE285HL with a request phoned in to move the centerline (LAS) from a 110 to a 108. It offers a little more bottom end torque while peaking a slight bit earlier in hp up top.
Pictured is the correct way the cam retaining plate is to be installed. Also, the cylinder head I was going to use (reuse) and the valve cover freshly painted orange along with the OE cast iron & TQ combo. The cylinder head I wanted to address some with a minor milling and valve job. (A machinists job I do not have the equipment for. Or room for it “Yet!”) I also wanted to do a little bowl work myself as well as spring pad work for the upgraded springs. I can do this at home. Not an issue.
Anyways... once you degree your cam in, it should have the fuel pump eccentric on the timing chain ready to install the front cover, water pump and pullies. Alternator not actually needed at this time.
(No pictures, sorry, but there’s the cam card.)
The cam is a Comp XE285HL with a request phoned in to move the centerline (LAS) from a 110 to a 108. It offers a little more bottom end torque while peaking a slight bit earlier in hp up top.
Pictured is the correct way the cam retaining plate is to be installed. Also, the cylinder head I was going to use (reuse) and the valve cover freshly painted orange along with the OE cast iron & TQ combo. The cylinder head I wanted to address some with a minor milling and valve job. (A machinists job I do not have the equipment for. Or room for it “Yet!”) I also wanted to do a little bowl work myself as well as spring pad work for the upgraded springs. I can do this at home. Not an issue.
Anyways... once you degree your cam in, it should have the fuel pump eccentric on the timing chain ready to install the front cover, water pump and pullies. Alternator not actually needed at this time.
-
