Another “which camshaft” post

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chrgdrt

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67 Barracuda conv., currently ‘77 360/4bbl. 68 exhaust manifolds w/ 2 1/2” exhaust, 4spd 3.23 sure grip. Basically just a street cruiser but just want to bump it up a bit. I have the motor out to refresh the engine comp. and regasket the motor. While out I’m going to install a six pack and thinking of a cam upgrade. The 68 340 4spd cam from Oregon #2120 specs
221/227@ .050 276/286 advertised .438/.456 lift 114sep. Or this stage 3 came from Jamsi.
Dodge Chrysler Mopar V8 Stage 3 Camshaft & Lifters Kit 318 340 360 MC3203. 214/224 @ .050 288/298 adv. .433/.466 lift. 108/116 sep..
they’re pretty close, the 340 cam has a bit more duration and the stage 3 has more of a split and a touch more lift. What are your thought on power production differences?
Thanks
 
Here's my opinion that Oregon 2120 looks like a pretty sweet cam for your setup. I also run a six pack, I don't think going up in camshaft would necessarily help much because of your rear end ratio and factory exhaust manifolds. Those duration numbers at 50 look about right you may want to find something with a little more lift but realistically with the setup you have that looks like a really good cam.
 
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I would check and see if that new one is in stock? I know you can just send your old one to Ken and have him grind it into what you want...
I wanted to buy a new cam and lifters for my truck project but availability just kept going out and out and still is and the price is going up LOL and they don't even have one LOL... I'm fortunate enough to live close and just go down and have Ken grind it and have him call me and I come get it and I've got it...
 
I like the 340 4 speed cam for your setup. Your engine would really wake up with some headers and a taller rear gear! 65'
 
As far as exhaust I do have the 68 340 manifolds with TTI 2 1/2 system w/H pipe about as good as it gets without headers.
Also 3.23 gear w/ 26” tires may go to 3.55 but I want to be able to cruise on the freeway(the car came w/ 2.76 peg leg so already an improvement).
The motor I think was originally a 2bbl so the cam is pretty mild, the idle is just too smooth
The stage 3 cam is in stock, but I will give Ken a call on Monday to see what’s up there.
 
Is the stage 3 cam grinder a known grinder? Have never heard of them or the cam.
 
67 Barracuda conv., currently ‘77 360/4bbl. 68 exhaust manifolds w/ 2 1/2” exhaust, 4spd 3.23 sure grip. Basically just a street cruiser but just want to bump it up a bit. I have the motor out to refresh the engine comp. and regasket the motor. While out I’m going to install a six pack and thinking of a cam upgrade. The 68 340 4spd cam from Oregon #2120 specs
221/227@ .050 276/286 advertised .438/.456 lift 114sep. Or this stage 3 came from Jamsi.
Dodge Chrysler Mopar V8 Stage 3 Camshaft & Lifters Kit 318 340 360 MC3203. 214/224 @ .050 288/298 adv. .433/.466 lift. 108/116 sep..
they’re pretty close, the 340 cam has a bit more duration and the stage 3 has more of a split and a touch more lift. What are your thought on power production differences?
Thanks
My thoughts on power production are not to touch ether cam.
As an example still using a cam not up to today’s specs but still isn’t a bad cam IF you could actually find one is the upgraded 340 Purple cam with the same advertised specs and nearly identical lifts on a 110.

Add the 6 pack and a good header (not the typical 1-5/8) with a thought out exhaust and you’ll soar north of 380 hp on a crap tune and be 100% streetable with a excellent torque curve. Combined with the 3.55’s, it’ll be a hoot to drive.

Get the right cam in there and you’ll add a good 20ft. Lbs. to the torque curve all over the low and mid section.
 
I use to put an old cam dynamics 222@50 on a 110 with .467 lift in 4 wheel drives back in the 70's.It ran very strong,that 77 360 would really respond very well to something along those lines...imo
 
Also agree LSA is too wide. 108-110 will give better overall power.
If you look at the MP cams, nearly all are ground on tighter LSAs. If you look at the MP replacement cams that closely correlate to the original 340 Hi Po cam, they are on 110 v 114 for the original factory grind. There is a reason for that....
 
Of the two, that "stage 3" cam is the better choice, IMO. The 112 LSA will give up less cylinder pressure than the 114. There are much better choices than just those two, though, IMO.
 
Not sure the stock heads will handle the .494 lift without any machining, have to take some measurements
They won't in most cases im running that exact same cam i had to cut the guides down some for retainer clearance. But its easy to do yourself and not expensive to do. I also recommend the luniti voodoo 702 its a great cam
 
Look at grind #51. http://www.oregoncamshaft.com/Hydraulic-Cam-Specs.html If Ken can grind that on a 106, that would be a nice one. That'll help get cylinder pressure up with a stock engine, not require any machining on the heads, you can use the dirt cheap Comp 901 springs and it'll have a noticeable idle. It'll pull hard, too. He may not can do the 106, but I feel sure he can get it down to a 108. If he can do the 106, let him do it.
http://www.oregoncamshaft.com/Hydraulic-Cam-Specs.html
 
So are we constrained to the two original choices or not? I'm kornfrooshed here.
Someone said “there are much better choices” so I was throwing a couple out there.
Some have mentioned the voodoo 702, I know I’ll have to change springs but I don’t want to pull the heads for any machining.
 
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Someone said “there are much better choices out there” so I was throwing a couple out there.
Some have mentioned the voodoo 702, I know I’ll have to change springs but I don’t want to pull the heads for any machining.
Let me find the numbers I took careful measurements when I worked on my heads I know they all are different but ill find the numbers I got from mine with stock springs and umbrella seals you are extremely limited in the lift department give me a min ill find it for you.
 
Someone said “there are better choices out there” so I was throwing a couple out there.
Some have mentioned the voodoo 702, I know I’ll have to change springs but I don’t want to pull the heads for any machining.
Using the stock engine with its factory compression ratio, means compression probably down in the high 7s, so you want a camshaft with a tight lobe separation to get cylinder pressure up. You also don't want "too much" duration at .050" because again, that can lower cylinder pressure. Lastly, that Oregon grind I posted will have a noticeable idle because of the wide duration split and the narrow LSA, similar to the Whiplash and Thumpr style cams. It'll also pull strong. Whatever you choose, good luck with it!
 
Keep stock cam and add more valve spring to get another 500-600 rpm out of it.

I read it's an old stock '77 360 motor, so I wouldn't do much other than headers and tuning. Just build it from the pan up, it's almost too cheap not to.
9.1 pistons are 155 bucks all day long on ebag.
Rings 25, bearings 80, 300-400 matching on block...then you can pick a lot nicer cam and have what you want.
 
Although I see nothing wrong with your choices and many of the suggestions, I know from experience that the Comp Cams Dual Energy 265DEH works fantastic in such an application. It is designed for minimum mods, like no deep gears or stall converters, and was intended to help vehicles with exhaust manifolds (split pattern). It is ground on a 110LSA to keep torque and cylinder pressure up, unlike wider LSAs. Has a loping idle but basically responds instantly off idle. There are a few on Ebay right now, but Comp will grind you one at no extra charge, as it's an existing grind that they stopped shelf stocking (to sell Thumprs and Xtremes). #20-417-4 (used to be -3) is the part number.

Comp Cams Dual Energy Flat Tappet Camshaft Chrysler 273-360 C.I. 8 CYL. 1964-00 | eBay
 
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