Another small block stroker combo to ponder.

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hemichuck

hemichuck

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I am digging in the garage trying to use up 40 years worth of leftover parts and trying to group them into specific combinations so I know where I'm headed and what else I need to complete them. I have a 360 Magnum block thats already bored .030 and has new freeze plugs and everything else. I also have a new set of Eagle rods for the pressed pins.I have a set of KB 356 pistons with the 23.5 cc dish and a quench dome, I have a new set of Edelbrock performer RPM heads for the Magnum with 58 cc head volume. I have a Performer RPM air Gap for carb and also a Hughs performer RPM air gap for Fuel injection. And I have a couple of new Hydraulic roller cams, one is a Mopar performance one thats 498 lift and the other is a Comp thats right over 500 lift, I will have to get the cards out with the specs. I also found a set of high dollar Magnum Roller rockers with the stock 1.6 ratio. Does this sound like something I could build a usable combo out of and what other parts might I need?
 
A couple of things I left out, obviously I would have to buy a 4 inch stroke crank to use with this combo but I figured with the KB pistons that the cast Crank would be more than adequate for the performance level I would be looking to achieve. I also have some Mopar Perf. magnum valve covers( not that they matter other than looks) I have a couple of older trucks I could use this motor in or maybe my 39 Plymouth coupe, I really hadnt planned that far ahead yet. I did plug the numbers into the UEM compression ratio calculater and it came up to 10.3 with a .040 head gasket. 23.5cc piston volume, 58cc head volume, 4.03 bore and 4 inch stroke. should be fairly streetable given aluminum heads.
 
that's usable. it's all junk as a matter of fact if you PM me I'll send you my address and I can take it to the scrap yard for you because that's the nice neighborly kind of guy I am.:popcorn:
p.s. it's a one time offer and your welcome.
 
You would probably have more in fuel than I do in all of these parts! I have been doing Mopar swap meets since I was 16, I'm 57 now, so I would always pick up parts to have laying around for the next couple of projects. A couple of years ago my cousin, the body man decides he dont want to build old cars anymore so now I have lots of mechanical parts and not enough cars to put them in(which was pretty much always my problem). A quick rundown of what I have in all this junk,Block came out of an old van at work, Kieth Blacks I bought on this site for $150. Eagle rods I bought at Columbus winter show, 2 sets for $250 so I got $125 in them. I bought the Edelbrock heads from a guy on Craigslist who had picked them up in a storage unit auction. I got the new heads, some cheap stamped roller rockers with push rods and a new set of chrome valve covers for $700. The air gap for carb at the nationals for $100 and the Hughs air gap on craigslist for $200. Both cams I got new for $100 each and the roller rockers I got from one of my buddies for $75. A new stroker crank from Mancini is $349 so that and some machine work should get me close to done.
 
If you buy a cast crank do not buy Eagle!
 
J,That's not fair, I posted first.
Okay, OP,ship it to me and I'll ship J the parts I don't want.
For this service, I'll ship you my teener,winter motor. But somebody will have to chip in for shipping,lol.
 
AJ/FormS said:
J,That's not fair, I posted first.
Okay, OP,ship it to me and I'll ship J the parts I don't want.
For this service, I'll ship you my teener,winter motor. But somebody will have to chip in for shipping,lol.
Click to expand...
I clearly posted first! Can't we just not be greedy and divide the parts as we need them?:elmer::canada::usflag::poke::rofl:
 
hemichuck said:
Are the scat cranks better?
Click to expand...

The Eagle cranks have been know to break behind the #1 main journal even in mild builds. The Scats cast cranks seem to be decent cranks. You could always buy forged, yes it costs more but there is more potential for growth (more HP) down the road.
 
AJ/FormS said:
NO!
Well maybe.
Well I meant to post first, clearly.
Well my teener needs a valve job anyway......
lol
Click to expand...
Ok, so we agreed...
Since you need the valve job you should get the eddy heads, tbe roller rockers, and since there's 2 sets of eagle rods I think its fair we each get a set? Also go ahead and keep those chrome valve covers.
now that should leave me a 4" crank, a set of eagle rods, some kb pistons, and an air gap to on top :thumbsup:
THANK YOU hemichuck !!!:thankyou:
 
You need a stroker crank and pistons. I didn't check, are the KB 356's a stroker piston?
 
Build away! I need to follow this thread. I bought a mystery 360 and it is a 408 in need of some tlc.
 
I just need the crank, I already have the KB's and pretty much everything else. So what are your thoughts on this combo, good street motor? I know some folks dont like the Kieth Black pistons but I already have them. I could sell those and buy some forged pistons.
 
I could use the hughes FI air gap if you guys are done haggling over parts :lol:.
hemichuck, I would build it with factory injection, sell both cams and get a larger one like [email protected] .533 lift 112-114 to make better use of the AG FI intake and heads. Sounds like you need gaskets, bearings, look in some boxes and dig out a timing set and oil pump. Some late model red injectors or aftermarket 28# ones, a 850 cfm TB and a pcm flash. never mind, toss a carb on it and sell me your air gap FI :steering:.Will make a great street engine for one of your projects....let me know if you need a FI tank or harness.
 
I probably have gaskets and bearings and I know I have a mellings Hi Volume pump. I will probably have to buy a timing chain. Im really down to a couple of cars I could use this in. I have a 1992 one ton 4x4 with 4.10 gears that has almost 300,000 miles in it but I hate to put it in that because its not a real pleasure to drive and besides the original motor is still going. I have a 1939 Plymouth coupe that I am building for my Dad, its already got a stock 73 cast crank 340 to go in it and my dads 83 so I'm not sure he needs a 408.What does it take to put the fuel injection in an older car? I do have a 1966 Plymouth Belvedere 4 door I could put it in.
 
I'm not afraid of the Kieth Blacks at all, Ive used several sets in 360's that I built and abused the living daylights out of. As long as you install them like the instructions say they are fine. I actually racked up a couple of hundred thousand miles on a set of them once in a fleet van. After years of driving performance cars and studying my driving style I tend to stay between 1500 and 3000 rpm a majority of the time with an occasional burst to 5500 and on a very rare occasion I will go up to 6200. So I try to build all of my motors to function well at the low range and pull as good as possible up to 5500. I like torque.
 
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