Any good pics of cheapy universal style mopar headers?

[SirDan]

Im looking for pics of the cheap headers not ttis or dougs. Id like to see how they are routed what they go around, what people clearanced and how low they hang. I recently aquired some flowtech ceramic coated headers for 150 dollars. They look identical to these hooker headers at least in the way the pipes are routed. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-5901-1HKR/?rtype=10

I DONT want to hear about how dougs and ttis fit better or how cheap headers hang low, The fact is i cant afford them and wont be getting them END OF STORY.

 

[Dusterdude72]

Well you see.... TTI's and dougs headers are the way to go.....JUST KIDDING LOL.

I feel yeah, I was in the same boat and just didnt have the cash for the expensive headers so I ended up running with the summit headers and I am happy with them so far.

they don't seem to hang "TOO" low but I won't know for sure how low they hang until I actually get a chance to drive my duster but I think as long as I don't go blowing over speed bumps I should be alright.

neither side header was fun to install lol, dang near had to pull the engine back out just to get them on, had to raise the engine a good 4 inchs to get enough clearance to slip the in. and of course I had to drop all my steering so I could run it through the header.

I have a stock starter and it actually still has decent clearance with the headers in place, I installed the starter after the headers were in....so it can be done lol.

as for other clearance, its all a pretty tight fit, but the only "added" clearance I did was I slightly tapped in a couple pipes on the passenger side where they were close to the torsion bar..... but I probably didnt have to.....I just figured I didnt want to pull the header back off if it ratteled and that I might as well just address the area and be done with it.

Ill post a few pictures below for ya

 

[65Vart]

My header problem is solved finally, I hunted down some Spitfires . I found some on Ebay and got lucky for my early A. Brand new never used, the guy decided to cut his fenders. With my little motor the spits should be a big improvement.

 

[jomoper]

I had a set of the flowtechs on My 72' Dart .I'm still Debating whether to re-use them when I install the new engine .Overall quality was fairly good for the price.The ceramic coating held up well.The issue I had was with My larger than stock torsion bars one tube on the pass side had to be dimpled to clear. With stock t-bars I don't think this would be an issue.Installing them like any headers is a lot of work I removed the t-bars raised the front-end up significantly and used my engine hoist to lift the engine for additional clearance.Also you have to partially disconect the steering linkage that goes through the tubes on the D/S.I'd advise you to invest in some good gaskets that's the one issue that drove me nuts like all cheap headers the flanges are inconsistant and the ports don't match up correctly creating leaks.If I reuse mine I will probably cut the connecting piece in between the front/middle/rear tubes. To hopefully allow better sealing.And maybe try those thick,soft aluminum gaskets.The only other issue was the steering shaft u-joint scraing against the header tube. I wound up replacing it with a flaming river piece for more clearance.

 

[LXguy]

Those look pretty much exactly like my hookers. Hookers might hang slightly lower actually.

Install was a ****. Getting on the #5 and #7 plugs (and routing the wires so they don't burn up) is a pain in the rear. But, haven't flattened them yet (knock wood) and the car runs good. Also, haven't had any gasket blowouts yet either, which is a welcome surprise (I did NOT use the cheapy gaskets they send with the headers though)

I've had a cylinder head off the car since I put them on, and while it did suck with the header in the way, I didn't have to do the whole job again like I thought I would.

I got the precoated ones. I figured anything to make them last longer was a good idea. No way I want to do this again until I absolutely have to.

Steve

 

[duster340]

basicly all the "affordable" headers have the same basic routing of the tubes and fitment is alitle hit and miss the last part i think has alot to do with the fact that these old cars where not realy som enginering masterpieces of perfect assembly and "bluprinting" in the first place when they where built, then to make it worse many are now 40 years old and have been beat on hard for a long time some stuff may have been slightly altered from time to time from people doing repairwork and some may have changed due to parts being swaped out as routine replacement and alla service parts may not be just as the stock stuff whas even if its close and some parts may have been swaped to something similar stuff that may work but may not be right for the aplication.
also headermanufacturers may have wornout or damaged jiggs from many many years of service and out of calibration benders and cutingequipment wich makes it even worse.. so just gohaed and try it, they should install according to instructions otherways i may dig up a pretty detailed instrucion on headerinstalation i posted here on FABO along time ago,i just cant get myself to print it all again it took some time and thougt even if its not the best i thought it was pretty clear and straightforward and i hope it was of use to someone

 

[duster340]

also most of the clearancing is being done where the headers pass down betwen steringbox and block "outside towards the stearing box", i have seen some that hit the cylinder head right under port 3and5 that was a odd one..,where the headers pass inside torsionbars and swep out under torsionbars "outside and top of tubes", front of passangerside tubes being to close to idlerarm"usuly just tuches there" some are very close to oilpan but usualy ok

 

[jefflock]

I just put a set of Hooker Super Comps and they were no pick nick either. I was just just about ready to throw the Headmans back on.