Any one interested in the oiling mods I did?

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yellow rose said:
So you have the SS pan. Hard to beat that pan. For drawbacks (big size and center link going through it) that pan kicks arse. I used to think the box pan was an improvement, but I have long since dropped that opinion.

The only time I’d use a box pan is with a dry sump.

Do you have the static pick up or the swinging one?
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Swinging. My block does not have a dipstick so I added a sight glass.
 
Duane said:
Swinging. My block does not have a dipstick so I added a sight glass.
Click to expand...


I have my pan off right now and I have the swinging pickup on the shelf. I was thinking of using it, but I was also considering adding a second line to the pickup to make it a dual inlet deal. Not that I need it, because I don’t think I do, but it’s cool (I think anyway).

Where did you get the sight glass? I don’t run a dip stick either and it drives some guys wild that I don’t. If it’s not on the ground or the plugs it has to be in the pan.

But the sight glass would be ok if I can make it fit with me headers.
 
yellow rose said:
I have my pan off right now and I have the swinging pickup on the shelf. I was thinking of using it, but I was also considering adding a second line to the pickup to make it a dual inlet deal. Not that I need it, because I don’t think I do, but it’s cool (I think anyway).

Where did you get the sight glass? I don’t run a dip stick either and it drives some guys wild that I don’t. If it’s not on the ground or the plugs it has to be in the pan.

But the sight glass would be ok if I can make it fit with me headers.
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It's just a sight glass from an air compressor. I think I got it on amazon or something. I positioned it so that I know that when the oil level is in the center, I know that the counter weights of the crank are out of the oil level. The swinging pickup has a lot of surface area. I also like the newer design because the swivel joint is also in the oil so they cannot suck air. I wanted to make sure I have good oil pressure in the shutdown. Swinging pickup and the accumulator are insurance. I have a cable that I can reach when I am strapped in the seat to open and close the accumulator valve.
I think for a car that is only driven occasionally that a pre oil is a good idea. Safe neutral valve body to get off the rods as well.
And thanks to David Rehr I finally understand why safe neutral is a great idea. Oil timing is only correct when the rods are driving the crank. It is not correct when the crank is driving the rods, think about that.
 
gregcon said:
I'm not wild about scrapers that mount to the pan rail using the pan bolts. But it seems the only way.... need to investigate that more
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I integrated my scraper into the windage tray. The scraper(both sides) are welded to the windage tray edges. So the windage tray is bolted to the main caps and the scrapers are also bolted to the pan rail. It is all very rigid this way. If I wanted to remove the scraper from the motor, it all comes off together with the tray.
I cannot say enough good things about Isahara Johnson scrapers
All laser cut, that's all they do is crank scrapers.
 
Duane said:
It's just a sight glass from an air compressor. I think I got it on amazon or something. I positioned it so that I know that when the oil level is in the center, I know that the counter weights of the crank are out of the oil level. The swinging pickup has a lot of surface area. I also like the newer design because the swivel joint is also in the oil so they cannot suck air. I wanted to make sure I have good oil pressure in the shutdown. Swinging pickup and the accumulator are insurance. I have a cable that I can reach when I am strapped in the seat to open and close the accumulator valve.
I think for a car that is only driven occasionally that a pre oil is a good idea. Safe neutral valve body to get off the rods as well.
And thanks to David Rehr I finally understand why safe neutral is a great idea. Oil timing is only correct when the rods are driving the crank. It is not correct when the crank is driving the rods, think about that.
Click to expand...


I have a compressor place pretty close. I’ll drive over there and see what they have. If nothing, Amazon it is. I’m banned from amazon by the wife. I can only use it in emergencies. I buy books. Lots of them. I lost my privilege of abusing amazon.

Interesting about the swinging pick up. I have a new, in the package pickup, but I have no idea how old it is and if it’s the updated one.

I have never brought the engine down in gear. I always push in the clutch. IMO, that is hard on parts, and I still see guys doing it today. Drives me wild. That’s why these cars have brakes and parachutes if needed.

Compression braking is a bad thing. The engine speed is still up there, what oil is in the pan is up at the front and as you say, the crank is driving the rods.

All very bad things singly, and added together is really bad.
 
My brothers, McMaster Carr is the only source for oil sight glasses. As well as many other supplies.
 
gregcon said:
My brothers, McMaster Carr is the only source for oil sight glasses. As well as many other supplies.
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All the sight glasses I’m finding have a temp rating of 250*F max. I’m not sure how hot my oil gets but I’d be pissed of the sight glass failed.

Any suggestions?
 
Actually, I find that about half the stuff under the hood is running at or very near its max limits. I tend to think a sight glass rated at 250F would ever have an issue. First, they buy a glass that is rated for 500F but is actually good for 700F, they just don't tell you. Then, they run it across the desk of 6 or 7 engineers,each one takes 50F out of the rating as safety margin, and they wind up with a published rating of 250F.
 
Thinking more about the right side galley...it has a small volume of about 3.5 cubic inches. Along the lines of YR's external manifold, it would be interesting to mount a 1.5" x 12" manifold in the lifter valley....that would have 12 cubic inches of volume....and plumb it in to the circuit. Not sure if it would have enough volume to really matter, but...
 
gregcon said:
Thinking more about the right side galley...it has a small volume of about 3.5 cubic inches. Along the lines of YR's external manifold, it would be interesting to mount a 1.5" x 12" manifold in the lifter valley....that would have 12 cubic inches of volume....and plumb it in to the circuit. Not sure if it would have enough volume to really matter, but...
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Lol I think you are starting to overthink it.
 
So my oil plan is still evolving but I'm leaning towards a loop-feed that is pretty similar to the Sanborn & Son layout, with some differences. I'm a believer in looping the right galley...but I'm gonna try to stay away from external lines. I added a couple carefully placed holes front and rear. This uses the generous feed passage that the #5 main currently has pretty much to itself...I felt that was better than 'tapping into the right galley to feed the right galley'. The hard line shown is a piece of scrap 3/8" tubing I had lying around; I'll make the real lines out of something better. I tipped these fittings up about 12 degrees to help the fit and also to reduce the sharp 90 degree bend of a right angle. The minimum diameter from the passage to passage will be 5/16"....that's pretty much as good as it's gonna get with a 1/4NPT port. The combined 'bend' in my hard line is 77 degrees, so I feel that's better then even a single 90 degree.

If I decide later I want a full -10AN feeding the front, I've set it up so I can change it over without too much misery.

I'm going to add a second line to feed the left galley, it will be smaller since it is only pressuring up the lifter bores/rockers.

r3 oil line.jpg
 
gregcon said:
So my oil plan is still evolving but I'm leaning towards a loop-feed that is pretty similar to the Sanborn & Son layout, with some differences. I'm a believer in looping the right galley...but I'm gonna try to stay away from external lines. I added a couple carefully placed holes front and rear. This uses the generous feed passage that the #5 main currently has pretty much to itself...I felt that was better than 'tapping into the right galley to feed the right galley'. The hard line shown is a piece of scrap 3/8" tubing I had lying around; I'll make the real lines out of something better. I tipped these fittings up about 12 degrees to help the fit and also to reduce the sharp 90 degree bend of a right angle. The minimum diameter from the passage to passage will be 5/16"....that's pretty much as good as it's gonna get with a 1/4NPT port. The combined 'bend' in my hard line is 77 degrees, so I feel that's better then even a single 90 degree.

If I decide later I want a full -10AN feeding the front, I've set it up so I can change it over without too much misery.

I'm going to add a second line to feed the left galley, it will be smaller since it is only pressuring up the lifter bores/rockers.

View attachment 1715566432
Click to expand...

Where are you picking up oil for the second line?

That’s a sanitary install.
 
I'm going to add a second port near the front, going into the same boss as the fitting I just added. It'll be 1/8 NPT though. I'll probably drop it in the left galley in the middle...I don't think it will matter much where I put it but I guess a middle position is most 'central'.

The fittings are Yor-Lok (SwageLok) type that are rated for 3000PSI. We use these at work....they seal and never leak.

I haven't seen much on the three tapped bosses above the center three cam bearings, they are used for the factory 'spider' that holds the hyd roller lifters in place. They have to be plugged or they'll be big oil leakers. I'll probably use two of them to attach some braces to help secure the oil lines and reduce any vibrations.
 
gregcon said:
I'm going to add a second port near the front, going into the same boss as the fitting I just added. It'll be 1/8 NPT though. I'll probably drop it in the left galley in the middle...I don't think it will matter much where I put it but I guess a middle position is most 'central'.

The fittings are Yor-Lok (SwageLok) type that are rated for 3000PSI. We use these at work....they seal and never leak.

I haven't seen much on the three tapped bosses above the center three cam bearings, they are used for the factory 'spider' that holds the hyd roller lifters in place. They have to be plugged or they'll be big oil leakers. I'll probably use two of them to attach some braces to help secure the oil lines and reduce any vibrations.
Click to expand...
Are you using a stock filter mount?
 
Yes, I am planning to at the moment. Part of the reason I did not want to use a sandwich type oil cooler adapter to get an external line (for front feed) is I suspect I'd have header clearance issues if I space the filter out any. I might have them regardless...
 
yellow rose said:
Reading through the thread. Can’t see the pictures because evidently you need to be a member, or you just can’t see them any more. I know what he’s saying so the pictures don’t really matter.

Post 25 is very telling. Sanborn nailed that one.
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Pix on that post are long gone. Got lost when a server was replaced. I have some saved if you want me to post them.
 
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