Any one interested in the oiling mods I did?

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Hey moper.
No irritations or aggressiveness taken. Not like some other boards or people that start wars over nothing.

Well I am glad that the #4 issue was solved at your end. I can agree with some of the stuff you said about that cross tube and disagree as well. You might be right, I might be right, you might be wrong, I might be wrong, maybe we are both right or maybe we are both wrong or somewhere in the middle because like you I am not an engineer either.


But that is interesting about your #4 main issue and how the cross tube fixed it. That is something to keep in mind as it works as well, go figure... As long as things work out in the end that is what counts.

Yes we are learning here. I like to take what makes sense to me and apply it or try to remember to use when needed. This thread is very important because a bottom end that fails can be very costly.

Thanks for your input moper! Much appreciated.

onig
 
So today we started to do the oil mods to the 1992 360 block.
The oil passages to and from the oil filter are already 1/2", just have to radius the inside corners.


The oil passages from the Right lifter galley that feed the mains are already 5/16". This block is factory and has saved me a lot of drilling. Drilled out the pump to 1/2" and port matched the oil pump to the rear main cap and smoothed it out.


Drillled extra oil drian holes in the lifter area on both side of the block and deburred that area as well.


Still left to do is;

  • tap the feeds to #1, 3 cam bearings with 3/8' NC since these passages are 5/16" in diameter, and install restricter with 1/8" hole
  • passage to #5 cam bearing is on an angle and I have to see if my tap is long enough to tap it and install the restrictor plug. From the main it is larger than 5/16" and then necks down to 5/16" about an inch from the saddle
  • Plug the passage to the Left lifter galley with 3/8" set screw, I already drilled it but need to get the set screws
  • Drill and tap the lifter galleys for the cross tube
  • Remove the rear pipe plugs for both lifter galleys as they need a 5/16" square tool to remove and I forgot to bring it with me
  • Remove the 5/16 square plug in the oil filter mounting as well and check the size
  • Slot the mains and #2, and 4 cam bearings
  • Of course tap all threaded holes, clean, ball hone the cylinder walls, clean, hot spray, oil it all up to prevent rusting, start the assembly process

Everything is coming along nicely. If I remember we can take some pics as well to share.


onig
 
I am doing oil mods also, and soild roller. i am going to put .060 hole in #1 set screw to left side. a little oil can't hurt. On #5 get a pulley tap they are 8in long so it will reach. I am also deburr/ polishing lifter galley, under oil filter plate, and under cyl's to help drain back.
 
Actually good to know about that pulley tap.
I thought that another alternative would be to drive the cam bearing in such a way that only part of the oil hole would line up with the oil gallery. This would reduce the oil to the bearing.

onig
 
OK, pic of the modified bearing shell side by side with an unmodified one and a pic of the ugly screening job of the valley. I used aluminum screen and devcon F two part epoxy.

395940489.jpg


395940490.jpg
 
Nice work on the bearings.
That is what we did as well.
I take it that the grinding on the valley is for pushrod clearance?

Good thread, keep it going.

onig
 
Thanks, the grinding is for solid roller lifter tie bar clearance. It doesn't take much on these blocks and cylinders 1,3, & 5 didn't need any grinding.
 
That's lookin good...but aren't you afraid of catching a good bit of oil in the valley? I mean looks like you closed the small holes down by the lifters. The oil is gonna have to pool up to the screens to drain, right?
 
It's not a big deal, I've done windage control before where I blocked all those holes and just left the back open. Plenty of drain back. I left these open this time because there is no oil to the lifters and I didn't really see any gain by blocking all those holes off. Maybe in a 10,000 rpm engine but not these.
 
Guitar Jones said:
It's not a big deal, I've done windage control before where I blocked all those holes and just left the back open. Plenty of drain back. I left these open this time because there is no oil to the lifters and I didn't really see any gain by blocking all those holes off. Maybe in a 10,000 rpm engine but not these.
Click to expand...

I gotchya. I knew you were gonna probably have a hell of a oil pan too so it's not like you were gonna dry it up. lol Speakin of RPM, what do you plan to twist that one?
 
The idea is that it all runs to the back and drains there, that's ideal at least...to not have it running into the crank, dragging & flinging everywhere and reverse..the crank throwing oil past the cam.....if the sump and drain back is ideal, this shouldn't be a problem.

pondering the idea....the screens could better help to control the cam from flinging tons of oil onto the bottom of the intake. A baffle will keep the oil off the intake but not really concentrate drain back where we want it to go...but then again the rotating cam will push everything 'most' everything away....so then there is the keeping of broken valve train parts away from the rotating assembly and excess windage from the crank that'll throw oil up into the valley.

On the bearings I would elongate but not widen, even though it's the top shell I like to have some more bearing.

nice work
 
Guitar what you think about limiting oil to cam shaft? I want to restrict it to 1/8 hole do you think thats en off oil for soild roller. also looks like you blocked the whole top end and drain back only in back will you have enough lube for cam?
 
I will be limiting the oil to the cam with an 1/8 restricter but only on 1 & 3. I still want the maximum amount of oil to the rockers. The solid roller should be fine, there have been many, many engines built that way without a problem. The crank throws off a lot of oil.
 
Guitar Jones said:
Yeah, I want it to live a nice long life.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure it will. That's some nice work you're doin. And if I haven't said it here already, thanks for sharin. Lots of guys treat this stuff as CIA secret service stuff.. Nice of you to open it up for everybody to follow along. You're alright in my book.
 
I did not see the cross over tube in the screened valley pic. Do you need the cross over tube with a solid roller?
Do you drill 5/16 holes between #2 and #4 main to cam and to rockers?
The pics are a great help, keep them coming.
Thanks
 
340 mopar said:
I did not see the cross over tube in the screened valley pic. Do you need the cross over tube with a solid roller?
Do you drill 5/16 holes between #2 and #4 main to cam and to rockers?
The pics are a great help, keep them coming.
Thanks
Click to expand...

No ncrossover tube, I'm not oiling the lifters at all, and no I don't enlarge the oil passage to the cam bearings for the rockers, they are plenty big enough.
 
OK, here's a pic of the tube installed in the right oil galley. My plan was to use a Bridgeport to ream the galley but there just wasn't enough room to do it so I had to use a 1/2" hand drill. Takes a long time. After the galley is reamed you just tap the tubes in and hammer the peening tool through. That's not enough to get the lifters to move freely though, you have to hone the crap out of it and drive the peening tool through several times because the tube will rotate on the first pass of the peening tool. Here's a tip too, install old lifters in the lifter bores before you drill the passages to the main saddles so the tubes don't rotate when the drill bit hits them.

396579230.jpg


This is where the soft plug is located that seperates the oil filter inlet from the outlet. I was on the fence about removing it but went ahead and did it and I am glad I did. I'll explain in a bit.

396579221.jpg


With the plug removed I was able to run the 1/2" drill bit all the way through to the right oil galley and I'm glad I did as while the passage was 1/2" or more most of the way it necked down to about 3/8" just before it got to the right galley. Remove the plug and check!

396579220.jpg


I was then able to get into the oil galley and round that corner off where it intersects.

You also have to drill this hole out and retap it for a larger pipe plug.

396579219.jpg


This corner right here is the only intersection that I can't reach to round off, it will just have to stay that way.

396579222.jpg


Up next will be pics of the oil pickup modifications. Since this is a circle track pan and they don't make the correct pickup for it anymore I have to modify what I have but I'm not quite done with that yet.
 
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