Any one interested in the oiling mods I did?

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OK, so the short block is together finally. I'm still waiting on pushrods, valve springs and cam bolt and washer.

Here's a pic of the girdle. I had to clearance it where the rod notches are. I didn't really make them deeper but I had to angle the notch that is already there about an 1/8 of an inch on the top side of the girdle at about a 45* angle to the bottom side. This pic shows the bottom side and the clearance it has now.

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Here is a pic of the modified oil filter mounting plate. This plate originally had only 4 holes. I drilled 4 more to a size that is one drill size bigger than the holes in a Mopar oil filter. I also drilled the mounting stud hole to a 1/2 inch and radiused the edges.

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Here you can see the modified oil pick up, I had to lengthen the depth 1/2 an inch and shortened it 1 1/2 inches to put it 7/16 of an inch off the bottom of the pan and move it closer to the center of the sump.

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And finally here it is assembled.

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What I don't have a pic of is the front of the right oil galley, I wanted to put a plug in it so I wasn't just using the cam thrust plate to seal the galley but couldn't find a cup plug that would fit. So I had to drill about 1/4 inch into the galley with an 11/16 drill bit and then I hammered an 11/16 cup plug into it. This actually worked out very well as it created a step in the galley so I couldn't put the plug in too deep as you don't want to block or partially restrict the oil feed passage to the #1 main saddle.
 
great looking bottom end! where you get girdle? also what kind of chain and do you run a tensioner?
 
The girdle came from Hughes Engines. The chain is a Cloyes billet true roller and no I don't use a tensioner. I personally don't think they actually do anything except reduce some possible noise issues. The spring tension on those tensioners is too weak.
 
Hey GJ. I noticed you had your cam bearing and frost plugs in when you started the mods, how did you clean up all your metal filings you created without flushing everything out such as tanking the block, just using air? You do any cam bearing mods, do such exist? I have my block at a machine shop along with my pistons to have my 340 taken to .030" over and my Hughes stud girdle to machine the main caps plus line hone them. I asked them to hold off on cam bearings yet, but I think I should have not bothered taking anything to them yet and did all the oiling mods before the rest of the machine work. Whats your take on this, can I have them do the work and safely clean up block on my own? Or since I can still have them wait, maybe go that way. I'm building a 416"

Cheers
Rod
 
The freeze plugs are in there because the block was tall filled. As for all the oil galleys and such I used engine cleaning brushes, brake cleaner, compressed air, hot soap (Dawn) and water and a water hose. It's clean. lol

As far as cam bearing mods, no. You could have the 2 and 4 cam journals grooved though to provide full time oiling to the rockers.
 
Thanks, think I will let them finish up and I'll take care in cleaning it up later. Anyone making a full groove cam bearing that can be bought off the shelve? Cheers.
 
OK, I've recently been made aware of an issue with the Melling high volume oil pumps. It would appear that the cup plug for the pressure relief spring has been installed backwards in some pumps. The cup portion should face the spring and be pressed in just far enough to install the cotter pin. My pump came with the plug pressed in with the cup facing outward towards the cotter pin. mshred installed his back in the same way (as did I) and he ended up with over 150 psi of oil pressure just priming his engine.

So be aware, I know it's a PITA to take the pan off in most stock chassis cars.
 
Learned the hard way.
From now on I will always prime the engine before installing, just in case.

onig
 
What kind of plug did you use between the oil feed and oil return crossing? standard soft plug? The one I drilled out was 9/16 by 3/4 long and solid metal.
Thanks again for all of your help.
Gary
 
im very interested in seeing this. stock mopar small blocks dont last long if shifted 6500 plus. it would be great if you showed us how you do it. plus im in the middle of building a street/strip 360 with roller-cam and was about to tube the block per mopar instructions. thanks
 
cool. these said oiling mods are a must in oval track racing, when the motor sees ~8000 for extended periods. my old man has been doing these mods for over 30 years and we've never had a motor blowup.

Edit: i drug my dad over to the computer to show him this thread, he was tickled to death.
 
Knowledge is power! Try not to let a day go by where you don`t learn something!! No matter what it is!!
 
Hey there GJ. I'm in the middle of doing your mods and have now been considering using the Canton pan with that same pick-up for the high volume Melling Pump instead of the new Milodon road racing pan that AutoXcuda was posting about. Couple of reasons, I like the pick up that bolts to the pump with a much larger I.D. and the rear sump location. My Demon has RMS K-member so fitment will be no prob. My questions to you are, what headers are you using and would you know if the TTI 1 7/8" Headers fit around that pan OK. And what is the part number for that pick-up that bolts to the pump, is it #11-503? Canton doesn't show a pic so I am not 100% sure. Thanks again for the post, between your info and stuff I'm reading in "BIG-INCH Mopar Small Blocks" I believe my motor will live a long life for constantly abusing on Blue Ovals & Bow Ties :D. BTW, my engine is a 340 stroked and bored to 416.

Nevermind about the pick-up,,I see you do have the 11-503 that you had to modify, that suxs. No one makes a pick-up that bolts to a HV Melling with large I.D. that you can use with a low profile pan?
 
Rodzilla said:
Hey there GJ. I'm in the middle of doing your mods and have now been considering using the Canton pan with that same pick-up for the high volume Melling Pump instead of the new Milodon road racing pan that AutoXcuda was posting about. Couple of reasons, I like the pick up that bolts to the pump with a much larger I.D. and the rear sump location. My Demon has RMS K-member so fitment will be no prob. My questions to you are, what headers are you using and would you know if the TTI 1 7/8" Headers fit around that pan OK. And what is the part number for that pick-up that bolts to the pump, is it #11-503? Canton doesn't show a pic so I am not 100% sure. Thanks again for the post, between your info and stuff I'm reading in "BIG-INCH Mopar Small Blocks" I believe my motor will live a long life for constantly abusing on Blue Ovals & Bow Ties :D. BTW, my engine is a 340 stroked and bored to 416.

Nevermind about the pick-up,,I see you do have the 11-503 that you had to modify, that suxs. No one makes a pick-up that bolts to a HV Melling with large I.D. that you can use with a low profile pan?
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I modified that pickup because Canton doesn't make that exact pan anymore and there were no pickups for it. If you get the new pan then that is the pickup for it. I got a deal on that pan from Muscle Motors as they bought 10 or however many of them from Canton at a circle track trade show. The reason they were cheap is because they didn't make a pickup for it.

Anyway my headers are home made and the car is a full 2x3 chassis car so I don't know about the TTI's, sorry.
 
Guitar Jones said:
I modified that pickup because Canton doesn't make that exact pan anymore and there were no pickups for it. If you get the new pan then that is the pickup for it. I got a deal on that pan from Muscle Motors as they bought 10 or however many of them from Canton at a circle track trade show. The reason they were cheap is because they didn't make a pickup for it.

Anyway my headers are home made and the car is a full 2x3 chassis car so I don't know about the TTI's, sorry.
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Ok,,,thanks, that clears that up for me. Thanks again for the write up.
 
GJ, what were you using for grinding to smooth out holes after drilling? I read you mention a die grinder, but what tips (grinding stones?) and have you found some long enough to go far down inside to clean up holes? Thanks.
 
I have just been reading this thread and thought I would add a few comments I do agree with most of these mods but there are a few others that can be done . over here in oz our cars came factory with remote oil filter setups to fit the steering boxes in . We take these off and plug the centre hole on the block and drill and tap the lower hole in the filter area to 3/8 npt and grind some metal away around the face of the holes to allow -10 to 3\8npt fitting to be screwed in to the block directly taking 2 90 degree bends out of the return from the filter .
The next one is to front oil your standard block by spliting the return line from your remote filter and running it to a space between the dizzy and the oil pressure outlet and drill a hole to fit a -8 90 deg bulkhead fitting then run the line from the rear to the front right side just back from the front wall of the block above no1 main and drill and tap to 1\4 npt and fit a -8 to 1/4npt fitting so the tube runs from back to the front under the intake
My own personal preference is to not block the oil to any lifters as I have seen many roller lifters and solids be very galled when high spring loads are used there are several drop in no mod needed roller lifters on the market now .
I also run the cross over tube in all applications as I go through the top of the rocker feed gallery with 1\8 bsp thread directly above the lifter gallery's then drill a 1\8 hole in the bottom of the rocker gallery joining them to the lifter gallery's creating full time oiling to the heads when doing this mod you turn no2 and no4 cam bearings to block the oil from the cam now you have priority oiling of the crank and cam and the heads are done from the main gallery .
I also block the left lifter bank at no 1 bearing as it is oiled through the crossover tube and 1 though 4 main bearing passages are opened up to 9\32 all the way up to the right lifter bank

Just thought I would chime in for a different perspective
 
GJ Im building a 410 stroker, but with a solid ft..would I be good with only opening up the main cap and oil pump? OR which oil improvements do you suggest for a street strip car?
 
Fst73_360 said:
GJ Im building a 410 stroker, but with a solid ft..would I be good with only opening up the main cap and oil pump? OR which oil improvements do you suggest for a street strip car?
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If you don't plan on twisting it much over 6000 rpm I wouldn't worry with much. Match the pump to the cap and clean up the passages to the oil filter. Check your filter plate and the through bolt that holds it.
 
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