Any one interested in the oiling mods I did?

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guitar, What length drill bits should I get to do your oiling mods? They make them in all sorts of sizes and the longer the more expensive. I don't want to be buying a 2 foot drill bit when I may only need a 6 inch. Great thread by the way!
 
71Scamper said:
guitar, What length drill bits should I get to do your oiling mods? They make them in all sorts of sizes and the longer the more expensive. I don't want to be buying a 2 foot drill bit when I may only need a 6 inch. Great thread by the way!
Click to expand...

The ones i used were 12" aka 1 foot long. work just fine for me.
 
the most important thing for hard acceleration is keeping the pump pickup submerged. on my 11 second car I run a 10" deep pan with 7 quarts of brad penn 10-30. if u are doing wheelies run a rear sump pan. drill and or check that all the suggested ports are 1/2". drill the 1-4 ports from pass. side galley to mains to 9/32". enlarge main bearing holes to match block and use full groove or 3/4 groove mains. I run flat solid lifters so I blocked the oil to the drivers side galley by simply covering the port coming up from the #1 main with the 19/32" galley cup plug. no need to restrict oil to any cam bearings cuz when u install the cam it covers the oil hole, except for about .001" radial clearance. for hydraulic lifters or whatever reason I do not see the valley crossover tube as any advantage over the stock crossover ports at the front of the block. the #1 main only feeds one rod bearing. with a high volume pump use the P3690715 or P3690874 hardened tip with full radius blend and pinned oil pump drive shaft and gear
 
I restricted all five cam bearings because my cam has full grooved journals on number 2&4.
Not coincidentally my number 2&4 main bearings were showing signs of oil starvation.
Number 4 was the worst having lost it crush.
On my new x block stroker build I have restricted all five cam bearings to 1/8 inch and completely shut off the rocker oiling from the cam bearings.
I instead have run a crossover tube to feed the rockers directly from the main galley and all added the front oil mod to eliminate the #4 main starvation caused by velocity in the galley.
See pic.

Duane
 

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just looking at your pic there I don't understand the benifit of running the line from front to rear of the block on the same lifter galley ? I have a line in mine that goes to the front in the same place but mine goes to the back of the block and out through the rear face where the intake seals between the dizzy and the oil pressure output then my return line from my oil filter( in aus we have remote filters due to steering box being there ) is split and one goes to the original inlet on the block and the other goes to the new inlet near the dizzy to oil from each end of the block
 
mopar408w5 said:
just looking at your pic there I don't understand the benifit of running the line from front to rear of the block on the same lifter galley ? I have a line in mine that goes to the front in the same place but mine goes to the back of the block and out through the rear face where the intake seals between the dizzy and the oil pressure output then my return line from my oil filter( in aus we have remote filters due to steering box being there ) is split and one goes to the original inlet on the block and the other goes to the new inlet near the dizzy to oil from each end of the block
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The tube on the galley has the same benefit as your setup. It is just that the tap in location is different. Your setup has the benefit of eliminating the 90 degree filter deal.
Your set up and the one I have done as well as the crossover tube all basically reverse feed the right side oil galley with the sole benefit of improved oiling to the main bearings, specifically number four main which is the most problematic because the oil tends to run right past it and not make the 90 degree turn from the galley. Reverse feeding the galley evens out the pressure and eliminates the high oil flow velocity. This was explained very well by a previous poster in this thread.
This same oil mod has been adopted right in the block casting of the newer chebby small blocks as well. I was able to restrict the oil to all five cam bearings by drilling a new smaller feed hole
In the cam bearings. When these new holes are aligned in the block this also shuts off completely all feed to the rocker arms. This also leaves more oil for the main and rod bearings.
But by doing this we need a new feed for the rockers which is what the other crossover brake line tube accomplishes( not to be confused with the oil galley cross over tube).

Duane
 
duane, running a hi volume pump? 4 main not getting enough oil is lack of volume/excessive clearances, not a sign the factory oiling needing a complete rehash
 
Marcohotrod said:
duane, running a hi volume pump? 4 main not getting enough oil is lack of volume/excessive clearances, not a sign the factory oiling needing a complete rehash
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The front oiling mod is very common. The new R blocks have the provision to add it right in the front china wall.
The rocker arm cross over line that I added is straight out of the big inch stroker small block.
The method I used to restrict oil to the cam is also straight out of the big inch stroker small block book. That book is identifying the same issues as Guitar Jones did in this thread. I just dealt with them a different way.
I have also adopted all the other mods that guitar Jones shows in this thread.
My previous build had a high volume pump 75 psi pressure and the block had the tube kit in the galley and the main bearing passages opened to 5/16. Rpm was just over 7000 rpm.
Number 4 main was toast after 40 runs.
I have an older 1980 mopar small block that talks extensively about trouble with number 4 main bearing, caused by high velocity in the galley. That problem is the original reason any crossover tube was ever added to a small block. You can have all the pressure and volume in the galley you want. It still has to make the 90 degree turn to get to the bearing.
A previous poster in this thread explains the velocity issue just as I understand it.
But there is more than one correct way to deal with the issues. I was just showing how I did it.

Duane
 
Duane said:
The front oiling mod is very common. The new R blocks have the provision to add it right in the front china wall.
The rocker arm cross over line that I added is straight out of the big inch stroker small block.
The method I used to restrict oil to the cam is also straight out of the big inch stroker small block book. That book is identifying the same issues as Guitar Jones did in this thread. I just dealt with them a different way.
I have also adopted all the other mods that guitar Jones shows in this thread.
My previous build had a high volume pump 75 psi pressure and the block had the tube kit in the galley and the main bearing passages opened to 5/16. Rpm was just over 7000 rpm.
Number 4 main was toast after 40 runs.
I have an older 1980 mopar small block that talks extensively about trouble with number 4 main bearing, caused by high velocity in the galley. That problem is the original reason any crossover tube was ever added to a small block. You can have all the pressure and volume in the galley you want. It still has to make the 90 degree turn to get to the bearing.
A previous poster in this thread explains the velocity issue just as I understand it.
But there is more than one correct way to deal with the issues. I was just showing how I did it.

Duane
Click to expand...

Forgot to mention that My cam has fully grooved journals on number 2&4 . The same journals that the main bearings were starved. Most cams have a drilled hole here and only oil every 180 degrees of rotation. A fully grooved cam journal may have given me a pressure drop at those two main bearings. Hence the recommendation to run a "rocker oiling" crossover line and restrict all the cam bearings.
 
I am thinking I should call my duster the junk yard dog. I used to work at a salvage and that is where I got the car and many parts for it. The headers were found on a reservation close to where I worked. I had to put a Chrysler adapter on for my oil filter to fit. Seems like I needed a short filter to run with these headers. Not sure where to check to get this info. Local parts guys act like your from outer space if you do not accept the first tpart they hand you .
 
Guitar Jones said:
OK, here goes. First things first, I purchased a 5/16 and 1/2 inch aircraft drill bits, they are longer. You may look at some of these passages and find that they may measure 1/2 inch at the outward ends but inside the block they can neck down considerably.

First we'll start with the pump, it needs to be disassembled and this passage opened up to 1/2".

388427603.jpg


This is the 5/8 I.D. pick up from Canton that bolts directly to a Melling HV oil pump to go with the pan I'm using. My car is a chassis car so I can use a rear sump pan. You don't have too but you at least need to configure a minimum 5/8" I.D. pickup tube.

388427578.jpg


Next is the rear main cap, this passage will also need to be opened up to 1/2". You'll have to turn it over and drill from the other side as well. Round off the sharp corner inside with a die grinder and carbide bit, oil doesn't like to make sharp turns. Also make sure the passage out of the pump lines up with the rear main cap passage and is not being partially blocked. You'd be surprised what you find.

388427588.jpg


This passage has a soft plug in it a couple inches down. The passage is plenty big enough down to the plug so you don't need to drill to it, I'm uncertain how big the passage is underneath it though so I will be removing it and running the 1/2 drill bit through it. If you elect to do this measure the depth of the plug first so you'll know you get the replacement in the correct spot. I know this info is available somewhere but measuring first will keep you from having to look it up.

Also in this passage is another 90* angle where the passage going to the filter intersects. Use a die grounder and round off the sharp corner being careful not to damage the wall of the passage right next to the main bearing saddle. It's pretty thin there.

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This is the passage to the oil filter that intersects with the passage from under the main cap. Drill this passage to 1/2 also.

388427551.jpg


This passage is drilled to the center of the oil filter out port, drill this into the center oil filter adapter port, when you look inside the center port from the oil filter you'll find that it's not drilled fully to a 1/2". From here you can round off the 90* corner with your die grinder.

388427563.jpg


This passage is plugged unless you want to run a remote filter. I don't see the point in it with a stock block because you can't run an extra oil line to the front of the engine anyway so for a drag car I don't believe it to be necessary. Either way drill this passage to 1/2 all the way to the passage that feeds the rear main bearing. This passage is not perpendicular to the bellhousing surface of the block, it slants towards the back a bit.


388427540.jpg


This is where you drilled to from the back of the block, make sure it's fully open inside, use a die grinder to round off the corner and open up right under the opening as you probably couldn't drill all the way in from the rear. Also make sure your oil filter adapter bolt is a full 1/2 inside.


388427536.jpg


Next we'll move to the front of the block and the #1 main. Here I'm pointing to the left side lifter galley passage. Since I'm blocking the oil to my tappets I'm tapping this hole to 5/16-18 to insert a set screw and I'll red loctite it in. This effectively blocks any oil to the left side tappets and keeps oil going to the crank.

Next I'll be tapping the camshaft feed holes from the #1 and #3 main saddles installing a set screw and drilling it 1/8 to restrict oil to the cam on those journals and keep more oil at the crank. I don't want to do the #2 and #4 feed holes as these also supply the rockers on my LA engine but if you have a magnum you can restrict them as well.

388427571.jpg



Now for you guys running hydraulics this is the best thing for you to do. Instead of blocking the oil from the main bearing saddle to the left side galley, block the oil to the #1 main saddle coming from the right lifter galley. You'll then need to drill tap and fabricate a line from the right galley to the left galley such as this. Use either 3/8 hard line or -6 braided line.

388427800.jpg



In addition to what I've pictured and posted I have also drilled the passage from the right lifter galley to the main saddles with a 5/16 drill on mains 1,2,3 & 4. You don't need to drill #5 as it's already big enough.

I'll be reaming the right lifter galley, tubing it and screening in the valley in the months to come so I'll keep updating as I go.
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Hi...

The lasts steps were I little confusing to me.

If I understood properly, you are not using hydraulic lifters and that is the reason the left site on saddle 1 got blocked.
Then if you are running hydraulics lifters. It is not necessary to do the previous mod.

But the last section under the picture with the 3/8 hard linewas not so clear to me.

I will be running solid lifters.

Can you please explain.
Thanks
 
Doing these mods now. What size drill bit should I use to drill the main oil galleys for installing the tubes. The Mopar drill and ream package is long discontinued. 5/8?
 
Once you have the tube I would measure the tubes OD and select a bit that will allow the tube to be tapped into the block. Interfence fit. Then peen the tube.
 
U say galleys and tubes, only need a tube on the passenger side, the driver side is blocked off easily with a plug
 
Marcohotrod said:
U say galleys and tubes, only need a tube on the passenger side, the driver side is blocked off easily with a plug
Click to expand...

Right. I should have said "drill the passenger side galley and install the tubes", as I believe it takes two tubes to do one galley. - installed one from each end. Thanks. :glasses7:
 
Can anyone post the photos from sanborn from moparchat oil mods and water mods topics here..

i just can register there to see them. i dont receive the registration email and have no feedback from messages a send to administrator...

or if possible someone can mail me the photos! [email protected]

thanks.
 
There is conflicting info in this thread about where the #1 main bearing feed is plugged. Using the crossover line with hydraulic lifters do you plug the passenger side feed, drill out the driver side to 5/16 and plug the cam feed an drill it 1/8in.
This is the way I thought it was done in the 70s.


Or do you block the left lifter galley feed from the #1 main and drill out the right side passage to 5/16 and plug the cam feed with a 1/8 hole plug. Then the cross over is just feeding the lifters.
 
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