Anybody running 17" Cobra Bullit rims on a Duster

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autoxcuda said:
How did you figure out the lug studs?

Lug Nut King is pretty reasonable isn't he? Did you catch him at the Turlock Swap?

Again, what A-arms are the they? Is it that the tubular A-arms are wider in certain spots? Pics?
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I just got some moser 3" studs from summit, and i shortened them...and yes, Lug Nut King is very reasonable and made some quality spacers. thanks for referring them to me.

They are the Reilly Motor Sports tubular uppers...It seems I am only getting 2 1/4 turns lock to lock with the F R 16:1 box, and with the rims off, I am getting 2 3/4 turns lock to lock....does that sound about right with the FR box? 2 3/4 turns lock to lock?

I will post pics right now once I get back under the car in a few minutes...
 
mopardude318 said:
I just got some moser 3" studs from summit, and i shortened them...and yes, Lug Nut King is very reasonable and made some quality spacers. thanks for referring them to me.

They are the Reilly Motor Sports tubular uppers...It seems I am only getting 2 1/4 turns lock to lock with the F R 16:1 box, and with the rims off, I am getting 2 3/4 turns lock to lock....does that sound about right with the FR box? 2 3/4 turns lock to lock?

I will post pics right now once I get back under the car in a few minutes...
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Are you hitting the UCA when you are turning the wheel with the car on jackstands or not at final ride height? When the suspension is full drooped down it will get closer to the UCA.

You can actually see the rim hitting the UCA, right?

Sometimes there is a nub on the LBJ that hits the LCA to limit the turning before the box itself hit it's locked point. I could imagine hit point on the LBJ wearing over time and/or the nub on the aftermarket LBJ varying.... Anyway, it's doesn't matter much. You just don't want the rim to hit the UCA at full lock.
 
I am putting a set of 18" staggerd rims on my 2001 GT mustang this spring so these are for sale in mid Michigan. Tires are pretty decent. I haven't considered an asking price yet but PM me if you are interested.

2001 Bullit style 17" rims with Cooper Z rated tires. I would take $500.

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autoxcuda said:
Are you hitting the UCA when you are turning the wheel with the car on jackstands or not at final ride height? When the suspension is full drooped down it will get closer to the UCA.

You can actually see the rim hitting the UCA, right?

Sometimes there is a nub on the LBJ that hits the LCA to limit the turning before the box itself hit it's locked point. I could imagine hit point on the LBJ wearing over time and/or the nub on the aftermarket LBJ varying.... Anyway, it's doesn't matter much. You just don't want the rim to hit the UCA at full lock.
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Well, I just now lowered the car for the first time, and I have to set ride height. Right now the frame is just slightly resting on the bump stops on the lower control arms...so, I'm gonna adjust the adjusters until the frame is 1" from the lower bump stops...I tried to turn the wheel, but I can only get 2 full turns. So, before I go any further, I'm gonna adjust the ride height...be right back...the car is so low right now, I can't get an impact on the adjuster bolts...
 
Okay. Ride height is set. I have 1" from the lower control arm bump stop to the frame. Now, before I reach full lock, the rim hits the tubular upper control arm, at ride height. (car sitting on the ground)...? It seems I have to adjust the alignment so the top of the tire pushes outward some more, and it might clear...and yes autox, i can physically see the rim hit and chip the paint off the RMS upper control arms...and the LBJ nub doesnt hit the LCA, cause the rims hits UCA as stated...

I'm thinking, for this all to work, I will have to get different tubular upper control arms from someone else like firm feel or magnum force, because they are narrower...I will post pics in the morning when the sun comes up...
 
OK here are the pics. The first two shows the rim hitting the tubular upper control arm at full droop.
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This pic shows how much more I COULD turn if the rim didn't hit the UCA.
Note the steering stop doesn't hit the LCA stop, as it should.

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Here is a pic at ride height, again, the rim hits the UCA.
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So, today I will mess with the cam bolts and see if I can change any of that.
If it doesn't, it seems that I will not be able to use the RMS UCA because they are too wide, more shaped like a "U". If you were to look at the Firm Feel tubular UCA, they are narrower and shaped like an "A", more or less. And it seems I will have more clearance if I use the Firm Feel UCA...

Here's the Firm Feel unit, its narrower...
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damn that sucks. i bought a set from bill for my dart and i just figured id put them on the duster. i guess not though. have you let him know about it?
 
I have not yet called him. I will call tomorrow. I hope it is me that is making the mistake though...
 
Yeah... they look really Wide... That is weird that anyone would make them like that. Especially RMS who I have heard nothing but good about. Let me know what you find out!
 
Probably wasn't on the radar when Bill made those arms - and it's likely not a problem for folks who aren't running wide wheels with deep backspace. I think we're watching this turn from a non-issue to something of a problem as more and more folks start turning to the big wheel/tire theme. I think it would be an easy fix for Bill (or anyone) make a narrow A-arm that still worked on the bump stop.

Clair
 
clair.davis said:
Probably wasn't on the radar when Bill made those arms - and it's likely not a problem for folks who aren't running wide wheels with deep backspace. I think we're watching this turn from a non-issue to something of a problem as more and more folks start turning to the big wheel/tire theme. I think it would be an easy fix for Bill (or anyone) make a narrow A-arm that still worked on the bump stop.

Clair
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clair, that makes sense...I posted this over at big block dart, and I'll get a response from bill most likely tomorrow...so, the only other tubular uppers i'd feel safe using other than bills would be from firm feel...i know magnum force, and just suspension might have a set, but ive heard many horror stories about magnum force's complete front end kit, which is junk...i dont know if anyone had problems running just their tubular uppers though....
 
i've got magnum force uppers and they've been on the car for years. they're the non adjustable type and so far i haven't had any issues whatsoever which is saying something because of the crap road maintenance here. i've heard all the issues with fit and fitment of the k-frame that magnum sells but(knock on wood) the uppers seem to be a good product. also, even though they are not adjustable i'm still able to gain more caster than i really need. i had my alignment guy put as much as he could get and he called back with the numbers and asked him to back it down to 3-4 degrees. i think he had around 6 degrees dialed in, maybe more, it was awhile back.

that sucks that you have those nice rms pieces and they're hitting the rim. maybe bill can help you find a new buyer for them or somebody on this site will snap them up.
 
pauly v.100 said:
i've got magnum force uppers and they've been on the car for years. they're the non adjustable type and so far i haven't had any issues whatsoever which is saying something because of the crap road maintenance here. i've heard all the issues with fit and fitment of the k-frame that magnum sells but(knock on wood) the uppers seem to be a good product. also, even though they are not adjustable i'm still able to gain more caster than i really need. i had my alignment guy put as much as he could get and he called back with the numbers and asked him to back it down to 3-4 degrees. i think he had around 6 degrees dialed in, maybe more, it was awhile back.

that sucks that you have those nice rms pieces and they're hitting the rim. maybe bill can help you find a new buyer for them or somebody on this site will snap them up.
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Im sure he will be able to make it right. :)

so these are the ones you got?
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I'm think I'm leaning more toward the firm feel ones...havent made up my mind...
 
bjkadron said:
Yeah... they look really Wide... That is weird that anyone would make them like that. Especially RMS who I have heard nothing but good about. Let me know what you find out!
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Are these RMS tubular uppers the same part number used on the Alterkion front ends? If so, those are setup to use coilover spring/shocks that need room to go through the upper control arm. But again, I'm not sure the Alterkion uses these same uppers.
 
autoxcuda said:
Are these RMS tubular uppers the same part number used on the Alterkion front ends? If so, those are setup to use coilover spring/shocks that need room to go through the upper control arm. But again, I'm not sure the Alterkion uses these same uppers.
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Yes Steve, these are the same arms that are used in the Alterkation. And I am aware that they need to be wider because of the coil over that runs through them...SO, looks like I'm gonna run the Firm Feel units...
 
mopardude318 said:
Yes Steve, these are the same arms that are used in the Alterkation. And I am aware that they need to be wider because of the coil over that runs through them...SO, looks like I'm gonna run the Firm Feel units...
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You know, Bill is a pretty straight up and fair guy. If he could make you a pair with straight arms that would fix your problem. Maybe he can release straight arms as a new product and exchange them for your new wide UCA's??

Wouldn't hurt to ask.
 
autoxcuda said:
You know, Bill is a pretty straight up and fair guy. If he could make you a pair with straight arms that would fix your problem. Maybe he can release straight arms as a new product and exchange them for your new wide UCA's??

Wouldn't hurt to ask.
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That's a great idea. And I know, no matter what, Bill would make it right. :)
It'd be awesome if he made ones with straight arms!
 
Strut rods are set to the same length as the factory ones were. Not a whole lot of room for adjustment. At ride height, I adjusted 1" from the LCA bump stop to the frame.
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Here it is at ride height:

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I have 7" from the ground to the bottom/middle of the k frame. Any lower I think I'll be too low, and I won't have any tension on the torsion bars...
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Now with the wheels turned at ride height, it hits the UCA.
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17x8 w/ 5.72 backspace. tires are half worn out wynstar exocet 245/45/17..they are a factory mustang tire...my friend gets alot of take off tires from the dealership. so i get them for free...
 
i think the pics make it look high...the k frame is only 7" from the ground...i dunno how much lower I can go. If I were to unscrew the adjuster nut to attempt to get another 1 inch lower, they would be all the way loose...
 
OK, what is everyone's ride height? how far is the lower control arm bump stop from the frame, and how far is the middle of the K-frame from the ground? what is the average/normal ride height?

Reilly is telling me that:
"1.0 inch torsion bars are WAY too stiff for a small block car and that with a ride height that high, geometry sucks. It will still wander all over the place, and since those bars are totally unwound at ride height, the ride quality will be miserable."

So, now I have the ride height down, and the LCA bump stops are just touching the frame...The torsion bar adjuster bolts are almost all the way out...Is it possible I installed the torsion bars wrong? can I clock them a different way? does it matter?
 
To get big stock-type or MP bars down to a lowered-looking ride height (lower than stock by a good bit), there may be very little or no preload on the adjusters. I've got 1.14" bars and only enough preload on the adjuster to keep things from rattling. I suspect I could remove them and be OK with the ride height, but I drive this car on real streets, so I'm a little higher than "race".

For alignment purposes, you want to be low enough that you're on the compression side of the movement curve. That may help a tad with the alignment setup, but you'll be close to or on the bump stops. I personally don't think that's a big deal, as the bigger bars don't need as much suspension movement, and a stock rubber bump stop acts like a variable spring as it compresses. FWIW, I have NO compression bump stops on my car, and I don't think I've made any LCA/chassis contact. I'm not doing any Duke Boys maneuvers, either.

Clair
 
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