Going to start fabricating my spring relocator brackets and I'm looking for 5 people to help beta test. This kit will move your springs inboard 3.50" I'm thinking about two versions. One will be a stock to mild performance version that simply bolts in for people with limited fab experience and a race version that bolts in place then welds to subframe for added strength. The nice thing about either one is if you don't have a welder you could install then drive to a welder! Email me at [email protected] for questions, suggestions etc.
Anybody want to relocate their rear springs?
- Thread starter Dusted_Ya
- Start date
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1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
Doesn't that significantly lower the front spring eye mounting point?
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
I don't see how that will work........???
It works! And it's WAY easier than the old fashioned way. Which I've done once. And once was enough for me to come up with a better way.
mikesduster
Well-Known Member
What if you dont want the rear to raise any??
jrlegacy23
68 Barracuda
It is a neat thought for guys that have no access to a welder, but most guys don't want to raise the rear.
Lowering blocks....
I'm not a big fan of that style relocation set up. It does work OK and the additional ride height is an issue.
Good luck with it.
Just use a 1" lowering block will get it within 1/2" of stock ht. or 2" block will make it 1/2" lower than stock. The big advantage in doing this is it is WAY faster and just as strong as the box method. Essentially you remove 4 nuts to remove the stock bracket and reinstall this one using the same 4 nuts. A few tack welds on the inside if your racing and your done! If your car needs the spring holes moved forward or backward to ensure straight tracking or to center tires on wheel wells better, just order it with the corrected dimensions.
You can use a 49" rear end (axle flange to axle flange)
Here's a pic of a car with these installed. There is no motor, tranny, radiator or front/rear bumpers or fuel in it. The rear tires are MT H50-15's which are about 25" tall. Oh and I have a 52" rear (flange to flange) in this car so those tires could actually be moved inboard over 2" more!
You can use a 49" rear end (axle flange to axle flange)
Here's a pic of a car with these installed. There is no motor, tranny, radiator or front/rear bumpers or fuel in it. The rear tires are MT H50-15's which are about 25" tall. Oh and I have a 52" rear (flange to flange) in this car so those tires could actually be moved inboard over 2" more!
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
I don,t think this is a better way,your more than 1 1/4 inches lower.Whats holding it on the inside of the frame?Whats on the rear part of the spring?Also an A-body rear is 52 5/8 flange to flange.Whats the 49 inch measurement?It might work on your car,but would it handle 500hp or more?
Sorry you don't think it's a better way. I do.
Like I said before a set of lowering blocks will correct the height difference. The bolt in version has a bolt that runs through the existing frame. The welded version for racing welds to the inside of the frame.
The rear spring bracket is installed by notching the frame, inverting the bracket and welding it to the frame and the bolt in version does the same notch but you need to drill holes through the frame.
I will have to check but I think it's actually a 46" wide axle housing that can be used. This means that if you want, for all you A-body people who do not have a factory 8 3/4 under your car and need to cut one down using a C-body rear or whatever, you can have it narrowed to 46" which makes it stronger. As for strength, Yes the weld in version will handle just as much power as the old box method only way easier to install and you don't need to reroute your ebrake cables.
Look just because it wasn't the method you used doesn't mean that it won't work. I'm trying to offer a simpler alternative method to spring relocation. If you like doing things the hard way then this is probably not for you.
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
Can you post a few more pics of the other side of the frame rail and where bolts or studs go thru the factory mounting holes?
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