Anyone here know woodworking?

-
You asked what a Saw Stop is. It is indeed expensive, but it will save your body parts. In a nutshell, the blade gets a sensing mechanism that knows the difference between flesh and wood. If you cut wood, the saw does its thing. If your finger gets in the way, the blade stops instantly, before your hand/finger/body part is removed from the rest of you. They are for real and they work.
 
Thanks for all the replies, this site abounds with knowledge. I couldn't sleep last nite thinking about woodworking. Seriously.
I did decide I want the smallest piece of equipment that will do the job. And no restoration projects because I'd rather spend that kind of time on my 1980 truck.
The most important things I need are to make perfect straight and 45* miter cuts. And do half lap joints. I thought about a router/table and how useful they are. I watched a video of a guy making trim and dowels with one. But I think a 10" table saw should be my first piece of gear.
I've been saturating myself with youtube videos, this one looks slick, but what do I know.


Flipping through the Shopsmith online catalog right now.
 
Last edited:
all I can say is wow...a true master built that canoe
canvas.png
 
4spdragtop said:
You can get pretty creative with sliding compound miter saw. Table saw is good for some stuff, but can be bulky and a pain in the arse to move around or use.
I bought quite a few tools(couple planers, routers, router table compound miter table saw) from dads estate. Dont have near enough room....yet. Makes it easier having them on rolling stands.
Have fun.
I redid the stairs at home, turned out good. Look nice. I hired company to do the railing and I stained/varathaned.

View attachment 1715485241
Click to expand...
B-e-a-u-t-i-f-u-l. Nice job!
 
This is just me, but if I was looking to buy my 1st piece of equipment.....it would be sliding compound nite saw. Versatile as heck.
 
All depends on what you you plan to do.
The one thing I don't like to do by hand is long rips.
So that's a table saw job.
That can be done with a circular saw. Depending on how accurate, the depth and what you're starting with I almost always prefer the table saw. Even though its only an 8" a twistlock belt and thin Freud blades make the most of what its got.
With limited space for the home shop, I tend to lean more heavily into a good workbench and hand tools. Keeps the dust levels down which is equally important when working without a collection system in a confined space. I can't recall the last time I put the dado blade into the table saw.
Shopsmith is pretty cool. Like any multipurpose tool, it takes a little more time to setup/reconfigure. Neighbor had an older one in the same size basement as mine (ie small).
 
I lost two matching lathe turned Low vase style lamps in Maple, Oak and Black Walnut in the house fire in 2010. They were really nice and turned out very semetrical. Made them in 1975. My parents still have the one in high top form maple made in early 75. I would love to remake them one day! Have the tools but not the space! I spent all my time in the shop when in HS.
 
Last edited:
My "big boss" has a complete woodshop rotting away in our building. He's done with that part of his life. I priced the Bandsaw and was over 5k lol.... Nothing beats good equipment...

JW
 
I used to have a large Grizzley, delta, and a table top Ryobi. Of those and for the money the Grizzly was the best for me.
Old powermatic, Delta unisaw, jet, . My advice is get the biggest heaviest one you can.
I suppose a good flat heavy table and excellent fence on just about any type will work well.

Don't forget government auctions. You might find a high school or local community college getting rid of their older nice stuff.

To be honest though a lot of shoulders, tenons, dados, can be quickly cut with a combination plane or the Veritas plow plane. In many cases you can use a hand plane faster than you can set up a dado on a table saw. Obviously for production or large projects the table saw is best.

I thought many times about going back to power tools. This is my current brutal endeavor but in the end I appreciated the exercise. The wood is Cocobolo. Door panel is not mounted, waiting for hinges. The last pic is the end grain of Katalox. Amazing looking piece of wood.

20191225_111612.jpg


20200303_192633.jpg


20200311_201328.jpg


20200304_192612.jpg
 
Beautiful work! That Katalox is wild looking stuff. What is that in 2nd pic?
999yards said:
I used to have a large Grizzley, delta, and a table top Ryobi. Of those and for the money the Grizzly was the best for me.
Old powermatic, Delta unisaw, jet, . My advice is get the biggest heaviest one you can.
I suppose a good flat heavy table and excellent fence on just about any type will work well.

Don't forget government auctions. You might find a high school or local community college getting rid of their older nice stuff.

To be honest though a lot of shoulders, tenons, dados, can be quickly cut with a combination plane or the Veritas plow plane. In many cases you can use a hand plane faster than you can set up a dado on a table saw. Obviously for production or large projects the table saw is best.

I thought many times about going back to power tools. This is my current brutal endeavor but in the end I appreciated the exercise. The wood is Cocobolo. Door panel is not mounted, waiting for hinges. The last pic is the end grain of Katalox. Amazing looking piece of wood.

View attachment 1715487098

View attachment 1715487103

View attachment 1715487105

View attachment 1715487107
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
Beautiful work! That Katalox is wild looking stuff. What is that in 2nd pic?
Click to expand...

Thank you.

It is a prototype for the cannabis ancillary market. The copper plate has a thermoelectric coupler (peltier device) underneath it. The copper plate gets ice cold which chills a (glass of water). The LED'S which surround the plate are 472nm (blue) which in an environment less than 50° F will kill viruses, bacteria, microorganisms ect. The circuitry includes a timer and thermostat so that blue light exposure is cycled on/off automatically and water temperature is maintained.

Typical UV Blue sterilization at room temperature requires a UV spectrum that damages plastics and and human tissues ~ 200nm. In a cold environment harmless blue light will do the same.

I decided to make a "high end" example for two reasons.
1. I think it captures the attention of the prospective licensee as there is a demand for discrete high end products in the cannabis ancillary market.
2. A cheap mass produced knock off is easier to visualize.

The patent includes several embodiments to include a water pump and filter so that cold water can be circulated and filtered as well. Naturally this would be better in a cheap plastic unit.

My wife thinks I'm crazy as I am a law enforcement officer. But the way I see it a good idea is a good idea. At least I think it is. I suppose one might refer to it as a virus killing gentleman's water pipe armoire. Lol.
At any rate woodworking is very therapeutic for me and with small projects like this expensive hardwoods aren't a big investment. I'll admit it's not totally by hand, I did result to using a circular saw and orbital sander for expediency.
 
Very cool info. So does the water pipe itself actually sit in the cabinet, or is it a a "water cooler" per se?
999yards said:
Thank you.

It is a prototype for the cannabis ancillary market. The copper plate has a thermoelectric coupler (peltier device) underneath it. The copper plate gets ice cold which chills a (glass of water). The LED'S which surround the plate are 472nm (blue) which in an environment less than 50° F will kill viruses, bacteria, microorganisms ect. The circuitry includes a timer and thermostat so that blue light exposure is cycled on/off automatically and water temperature is maintained.

Typical UV Blue sterilization at room temperature requires a UV spectrum that damages plastics and and human tissues ~ 200nm. In a cold environment harmless blue light will do the same.

I decided to make a "high end" example for two reasons.
1. I think it captures the attention of the prospective licensee as there is a demand for discrete high end products in the cannabis ancillary market.
2. A cheap mass produced knock off is easier to visualize.

The patent includes several embodiments to include a water pump and filter so that cold water can be circulated and filtered as well. Naturally this would be better in a cheap plastic unit.

My wife thinks I'm crazy as I am a law enforcement officer. But the way I see it a good idea is a good idea. At least I think it is. I suppose one might refer to it as a virus killing gentleman's water pipe armoire. Lol.
At any rate woodworking is very therapeutic for me and with small projects like this expensive hardwoods aren't a big investment. I'll admit it's not totally by hand, I did result to using a circular saw and orbital sander for expediency.
Click to expand...
 
999yards said:
I used to have a large Grizzley, delta, and a table top Ryobi. Of those and for the money the Grizzly was the best for me.
Old powermatic, Delta unisaw, jet, . My advice is get the biggest heaviest one you can.
I suppose a good flat heavy table and excellent fence on just about any type will work well.

Don't forget government auctions. You might find a high school or local community college getting rid of their older nice stuff.

To be honest though a lot of shoulders, tenons, dados, can be quickly cut with a combination plane or the Veritas plow plane. In many cases you can use a hand plane faster than you can set up a dado on a table saw. Obviously for production or large projects the table saw is best.

I thought many times about going back to power tools. This is my current brutal endeavor but in the end I appreciated the exercise. The wood is Cocobolo. Door panel is not mounted, waiting for hinges. The last pic is the end grain of Katalox. Amazing looking piece of wood.

View attachment 1715487098

View attachment 1715487103

View attachment 1715487105

View attachment 1715487107
Click to expand...
I would rather get the exercise too. I looked at the combination plan and some Veritas stuff. Then I looked at a sliding miter saw and that may be what I need, since I want to make half lap joints. Is there was a hand tool that could do those?
How to make half-laps using the sliding miter saw
 
DodgeLad said:
I would rather get the exercise too. I looked at the combination plan and some Veritas stuff. Then I looked at a sliding miter saw and that may be what I need, since I want to make half lap joints. Is there was a hand tool that could do those?
How to make half-laps using the sliding miter saw
Click to expand...
Depends on the wood I'm working with.
But very generally a cross grain saw cut on each side and then several somewhat evenly spaced in between.
Then clean out out a chisel and mallet.
Finish with a long bladed chisel or plane(s) as neccessary.

A bench rest is really helpful. Make those yourself.
I just did something a few a months ago. Lemme look for pics
 
Bench hook. Stop on this side is a little shorter so the saw teeth won't hit the workbench and also prove better support on the final cuts.
upload_2020-3-15_11-45-52.png


upload_2020-3-15_11-54-51.png

Only mortice and tennon and open tennons on the project I made that for, so not quite the same as lap joints.
I'd have to look through if there are any pics of the crew or interns making their picnic benches and tables. We had them make lap joints various ways.
 
I don't recall any of the sliding miter saws I've use that allow partial depth cuts like you'ld want for making lap joints. You can do that with a circular saw if you're careful.

Combination molding planes are good and bad. The downsides are that they require additional setup and generally provide less support (harder to control).
A good plough and rabbet plane is a little different animal. They provide good support. Just be careful extra careful as the blade sticks out the edge a hair.

Combo plane (can't lie - I have two) is pretty good for beads on stragiht grains, more difficult for ovolos and in this case, cutting the rabbet and sash ovolo at the same time.
upload_2020-3-15_12-17-24.png


upload_2020-3-15_12-19-46.png


Of the people who have you tube videos up, Paul Sellers is the one guy I'd look at for hand tools info. He was/is an experienced fine woodworker first, including architectural work.
 
4spdragtop said:
Very cool info. So does the water pipe itself actually sit in the cabinet, or is it a a "water cooler" per se?
Click to expand...

Yes its sits on the copper plate. It allows for discrete storage, chilling of the water, and ofcourse disinfection.
 
DodgeLad said:
I would rather get the exercise too. I looked at the combination plan and some Veritas stuff. Then I looked at a sliding miter saw and that may be what I need, since I want to make half lap joints. Is there was a hand tool that could do those?
How to make half-laps using the sliding miter saw
Click to expand...

I would do like Mattax says and to add to that a router plane would also clean it up nicely.

I will say that the value of extremely sharp and perfectly flat chisels and plane blades cannot be overstated. Especially when working cross grain.

Veritas Router Plane - Lee Valley Tools
 
I'm getting a little confused. I've been handed a lot of info. So to do the half lap by hand, minimally I just need a crosscut saw and a good set of chisels?
 
DodgeLad said:
I'm getting a little confused. I've been handed a lot of info. So to do the half lap by hand, minimally I just need a crosscut saw and a good set of chisels?
Click to expand...

Yes and in my opinion I wouldn't buy a whole set of chisels if costs are a consideration. I like buying great chisels one at a time. I especially like the Rob Cosman IBC chisel. The handle unscrews and the bottom of the chisel is perfectly flat all the way to the end of the threads. Also the chisel is tapered in such a way that the cutting edge is the widest point. That way the sides are less likely to bruise your work. They're around 75 bucks each but I never needed a whole set. For me it's always two or three with only two being used most of the time.

Full description here.

IBC Bench Chisel - 3/8 inch
 
If you want joints, here's the granddaddy of them all. A JDS Multi-Router. Just add router.

A3260_3.jpg


Or the less expensive unit from Woodtex matchmaker.

matchmaker.jpg
 
DodgeLad said:
I'm getting a little confused. I've been handed a lot of info. So to do the half lap by hand, minimally I just need a crosscut saw and a good set of chisels?
Click to expand...
Basically yes.
If its all hand tools then its:
1. A sturdy bench
2. A bench hook, although other holding devices will work, such as a pair bench dogs.
3. Cross cut saw.
4. A chisel meant to be struck,
5. A mallet.

But the specific choices will depends on what you will be making and the wood you are using.
Using a fine chisel on construction lumber, say stud grade Hem-fir or SPF is just going to be frustrating. Even on a better grade Douglas Fir its going be rough carpentry and chisel and saw to match.

For rougher work, a half decent 'bench chisel' is good. For finer work, and especially finish work, I like something with a longer blade for better control. At that point I'm often not using a mallet but paring.

The really fine woodworking hand tools, bought new, are expensive. Narex had a good rep as a decent but lower priced chisel manufacturer as of a few years ago. At some point you'll probably get into at least some basic sharpening. New or used chisels almost always need some additional sharpening. Hand saws sometimes can be purchased already sharpened - that's a big time saver.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top