Anyone here know woodworking?

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thx
Already have an assortment of stones for knife sharpening. Should be ok?
Found a nice saw to use with my Craftsman plastic miter box. I can use homemade spacers to work as stops for depth adjustment I think.
I don't want to spend $70+ on a single chisel at this point. Saw a Narex set for around $100.
I was thinking about trying some finished poplar boards to build a planter stand to get started. I saw the lumber at Lowes and the boards are perfect, beautiful and priced right.
 
Sounds like a good start.
I assume by saw to use with the miter box you mean a back saw.
When I wrote stop, I mean the raised section of the bench rest that keeps the woodwork from moving.
Hold the wood against the stop.
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The bench dog is another type of stop.

I don't use depth stops for saw work and wouldn't recommend that.
Use a marking gage to strike a line on both sides. Then saw to that depth. More on this in a bit.

So to be complete we could add measuring and marking tools - which you may already have. Try or combination square and marking gage.

here's two marking gages. They are not critical but handy. You could also layout the depth with a adjustble combination square, or other means.
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These are some bench chisels I take into the field and will use on old material that may have nails hidden. I still hate chipping 'em. Bought a Little Wizard metal detector to reduce the number of times this happens. You wont have that issue building new.
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Bought these last year to fill in two sizes I didn't have. Exact widths can save time when making mortices. But the reason I show them is as examples of longer length blades.
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These are from the reprint of Bernard Jones's books.
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Make as many saw cuts as needed so the wood to chopped is less than the chisel's width.
I usually start with the bevel down.
Work from both sides so as not to break out the grain on the far side.
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An advantage of using stops and holdfasts over a vise or screw clamp is the speed and ease of removing and securing the piece of wood being worked on.
For finish work, usually bevel up and pare. Use both hands to control the chisel.
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Earlier I mentioned rebate and shoulder planes.
Just so you know what they are; both have a blade that goes the full width of the sole.
But the rebate plane also has a fence, and often also has a depth stop. Some also have nickers that can be lowered to cut cross grain.
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That said, Jones calls this a rebate plane and it has no fence or depth stop shown.

Stanley 78 is still readily available.
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Wood shoulder plane
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I don't do eastern carpentry. Although there are times a pull saw is nice, its not a match for the angllo-eurpean techniques discussed above.

Yes - its likely the saws that came with the cheaper mitre boxes may not be sharp or have other tweaks needed. Could be technique too but not enough info to guess at that.

The 11" Tennon saw here would be an OK deal.
Buy Old Disston Saws at Best Prices - Gatctools
I' d prefer no broken teeth at that price, but it is sharpened by a pro.

For new at reasonablish prices, see what Veritas and lee Valley have. But they can be on the pricey side but are known for quality.
There are several US importers of Pax and Lynx saws from Thomas Flynn (UK) and even shipped across the Atlantic prices aren't too bad.

Tonight I can look for more links to folks who sell used saws sharpened and ready to go.

The larger saws, like 5to 6 tpi rip saw are not difficult to sharpen. The small toothed saws are more difficult IMO.
 
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I think any straight and sharp saw in that range (11-16 tpi) will be good.
The coarser teeth tend to be better with softer wood (less clogging).

I'd pick one thats a size you think will be comfortable working with and start with that.

Of the chisel sets linked there, I don't think the new Sweetharts are meant for striking. I'd start with the one with the reinforcement ring, or the narex even though they are metric widths.
 
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I was going to buy a plane when you hit a task you could use a plane for. Then buy the type of plane needed for it.

Price is OK - assuming nothing is broken (threads stripped or castings cracked).
Plastic handles - probably relatively newer and/or Handyman series. Handyman was the name used for their own lower line of tools.
Blue body also suggests newer. There was a slightly less metalic blue used in the 60s but with hardwood totes.

If you need a smoother - I like the adjustments that this plane has. Without releasing the lever lock there blade depth and side to side can be adjusted.
 
If you're interested in reading, I don't have any one book, but the Fine Woodworking's Planes & Chisels and Bench Tools have good selection of articles to pick through.
Paul Sellers is pretty good - although you'll notice not everyone does things his way - there is more than one right way to do things - and usually a whole bunch of wrong ways or poor ways too.
I was a big Roy Underhill fan when it was first on the air. But don't expect him to give away all the secrets or be a training manual. But generally fun, inspirational, and informative. Sometimes, at least in his books, I'm sure he's just pulling our leg.
 
The Narex chisels came in. I made a very rough mallet. I found some 4x4 scrap and 1.25" dowel of unknown origin. I think the dowel is hickory or oak. It's a real hack job, but two things I am sure of...
I wouldn't want to be hit over the head with it,
and the head is NOT coming off, I pressed it on with a 12-ton shop press and some creative pounding with a 2lb blacksmith hammer.
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halfafish said:
You asked what a Saw Stop is. It is indeed expensive, but it will save your body parts. In a nutshell, the blade gets a sensing mechanism that knows the difference between flesh and wood. If you cut wood, the saw does its thing. If your finger gets in the way, the blade stops instantly, before your hand/finger/body part is removed from the rest of you. They are for real and they work.
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A factory rep called these saws, "The Weenie Saw". He would run an uncooked hotdog into the blade and the blade would stop before cutting through the hotdog skin. Expensive demo though. Had to replace the brake pads after each demo.
 
If you haven't yet, check out Fine Woodworking Magazine and the publishing company associated with them. Great books on joinery, wood properties, and great jig examples; sliding bed for table saw, hinged wood stops, lots of cool stuff to make on the cheap. I'm late to the thread, but a 1HP table saw with a T Square fence is hobby good. Use a push stick to keep your fingers away from the blade and NEVER have your hand over the top of the blade, no matter how shallow the Dato cut. Ensure any wheels are locked. You don't want the saw moving when you are cutting. If anything binds between the blade and fence, step away. Wood is cheap. A 3/4 HP Porter Cable router with a 1/2" and 1/4" collet will do about everything you come across. You can find them with an additional plunge router base if you want to do inlay. You can sculpt with a Porter Cable 4x24 belt sander. Hog down sticking doors with 80 grit, kiss away blemishes and edge bumps with 120 grit. You will probably screw up a few pieces getting the hang of it, but when you learn it, it's an amazingly versatile tool! Oh and you just can't have too many wood clamps.
 
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