Appropriate Wheel Offset for 18" Wheels?

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MuuMuu101 said:
I just placed my order on wheels. I'm wondering if I should order 245/40/18's and start by there or just stick with the 255/40/18's and fiddle around. Remeasuring, I think I'm going to need some small spacers but as long as I have good thread engagement, I think I should be fine. I can't afford to have the wheel hit the frame rails due to brake lines.
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Find tires on craigslist in that size used and cheap to test fit and if they work but new ones.
That's what I have been doing
Much cheaper than buying new that don't work
 
Tires came in and man do they look mean. Only problem is that the wheels I ordered were apparently discontinued, so now I'm on the hunt again. I may need to just go with a custom offset as most the wheel companies I look into skip from 18 x 8.5 to 18 x 9.5.
 
72BBSwinger said:
And now we've come full circle, http://www.ebay.com/itm/XXR-526-18x..._Car_Truck_Wheels&hash=item4d273d3ac3&vxp=mtr
a spacer on the rear, WHO FREAKIN CARES, the rear studs are about a 20 minute swap to 3" AND you can rotate the tires front to back. But go ahead and keep on with your search......
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You don't need to be a complete @$$ about it. I need to work some things out with the company I originally placed the order with first. And I care about wheel spacers... I don't like them. They're another component that can fail and needs to be checked often (retorqued). Although I can purchase longer wheel studs the width is still the same so it doesn't make much of a difference. Increasing the length without increasing the width isn't beneficial because when you push the majority of the mass further away from the base of the stud/rotor, the mass is going to create a larger moment produced on the wheel studs when loaded by the weight of the vehicle during driving.

Now sure, you're going to say, "I run one just fine... Lots of people have used them without problems... etc." Fact is, there have been many instances where they've failed or the wheel studs have failed. I'd rather be safer than sorry.

Anyways, as I said, I need to call the company I ordered the wheels from as they already charged my card. I also want to give Enkei a call to validate it for myself. If not, my two options are American Muscle wheels with spacers or getting custom wheels.
 
72BBSwinger said:
I wasn't being a "complete" @$$, I have plenty more left lol!
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I just don't get it with you and why you've got to be a jerk sometimes... I'm not trying to have an argument with you over the internet. Maybe it's because I'm not as mechanically inclined as you or I don't necessarily want to do things the way you think they should be done or something, but sometimes your comments get a little tiring.
 
Im tired of this thread, ive been anxiously waiting for you to get this wheel situation handled so I can finally see what a white 68 Dart looks like with some 18's. If it appears im running out of patience, its because I am lol!
 
72BBSwinger said:
Im tired of this thread, ive been anxiously waiting for you to get this wheel situation handled so I can finally see what a white 68 Dart looks like with some 18's. If it appears im running out of patience, its because I am lol!
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I'm tired of this stupid thread too. If you've run out of patience, how do you think I feel?! It's my car. Lol. I wish I could find the time and energy to work on the thing and get it on the ground again instead of working on school projects, doing homework, and studying for tests every free time I get.

I want to freakin get in the thing already and shred it on an autocross course and through Glendora Mountain Road! I want a 360 and a manual transmission already. I want to do donuts and burnouts!!!

There, I think we now understand each other's frustrations. :D
 
MuuMuu101 said:
Now sure, you're going to say, "I run one just fine... Lots of people have used them without problems... etc." Fact is, there have been many instances where they've failed or the wheel studs have failed. I'd rather be safer than sorry.
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All of the failures I've seen were either cast spacers or improperly torqued spacers. Billet spacers with good quality studs are no worse than using aluminum wheels to begin with. Yes, you have two sets of lugs nuts to tighten per wheel. And yes, you need to check the lug nuts on the spacer/adapter. But only as frequently as you need to check the lugs on your aluminum rims.

As far as additional forces, the tire is going to end up in the same place no matter what unless you change the width of your axle. Even if you get a rim with a custom offset made, the tire's relationship to the hub is the same. That force is just entirely on the rim, instead of on the rim and a solid chunk of billet. But, there's more metal in a 1" billet spacer than is in the center of the rim you're trying to use, so, does it really matter? Not to mention, the aluminum rims are more than likely cast aluminum. Not billet. So, if you're worried about something breaking, worry about the rim. The billet spacer with properly torqued lugs is far stronger than the rest of the wheel.
 

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Anyways, I found some wheels that will fit my application, they cost more than the RP03's, but I called the distributor up and he's going to check with the wheel manufacturer on Monday to see if the wheel manufacturer has them in stock, as he only has the rears on him and I don't wait 6 months for wheels. He said, if needed, be he'd even cut the price down on these wheels so that they'd be cheaper than what I would have paid for the RP03's. Talk about awesome customer service!
 
This is what 285 front and 305 rear look like, winning last weekend...

 

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tomswheels said:
This is what 285 front and 305 rear look like, winning last weekend...

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Tom. Did you notch the bottom of the frame rail over the LCA? Or notch the LCA?

Sorry for the big picture. But this deserves it! :burnout:



 
Thanks Steve, neither! LCA and frame rails un modified...
 
Can fit a 305 in the rear without altering any sheet metal? If so, what did you modify?


Do you have some pictures of the rear tires at ride height in areas they are close to inner, outer, and leaf springs?
 
autoxcuda said:
Can fit a 305 in the rear without altering any sheet metal? If so, what did you modify?


Do you have some pictures of the rear tires at ride height in areas they are close to inner, outer, and leaf springs?
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His fenders are subtly flared. It's hard to tell in the pictures.
 
autoxcuda said:
About out inner wheelhouses. The double wall on the outside gets in the way.
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I don't know all the details and the last time I saw it, it was running 265's all around. From what I understood, a pneumatic cylinder was used to push out the lips even further. As far as I remember, nothing was done to the inner housing, granted I saw this car 6 months ago.
 
MuuMuu101 said:
I don't know all the details and the last time I saw it, it was running 265's all around. From what I understood, a pneumatic cylinder was used to push out the lips even further. As far as I remember, nothing was done to the inner housing, granted I saw this car 6 months ago.
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Samy is correct, no mods to the inner fenders. Hotchkis TVS, 1.06 Tb, slightly crooked Borgeson box, rear springs in stock locations. All the mods to increase tire clearance are to the outer fenders. Pneumatic tool pushing outer out about 1.5 inches in front, then some massaging of the front wheelhouse lower corners. 18x10 front wheels with 285/35 tires.
Rear fenders relief cut and then pushed out a lot, I have 14 inches between fender lip and springs. 305/30/19 on 10.5 inch wheels fit perfectly, 1 inch from springs, 3/4 inch from lips...
 
tomswheels said:
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Rear fenders relief cut and then pushed out a lot, I have 14 inches between fender lip and springs. 305/30/19 on 10.5 inch wheels fit perfectly, 1 inch from springs, 3/4 inch from lips...
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When you mean "cut" did you cut/slice the outside wheel house that make the double wall on top of the rear fenders.

One my rear, the double wall make a step over that takes a bunch of room away. And there is that "thickness" of the fender even lower at the fender lip.

The step is pointed out with arrows here:
 

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Here's another view of this "step" or ledge on the outer wheel house.
 

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Barracudas have this wheel lip that is recessed that makes lipping with a subtle to the eye flair impossible to do.

Notice at top of board to body contour.
 

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I forgot the previous owner had done a little cutting along that line. My Fenders have essentially been reverse-tubbed, with inner fender metal being added to make up the gap where we pushed the fenders out...
 

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