arp main studs

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dodgedifferent2

dodgedifferent2

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I bought some main studs from arp part number 240-5501 that is suppose to work with the windage tray.
Does anybody have a photo of these main studs installed?
It seems like i have the wrong style.
I have 5 long ones that the windage tray would bolt to.
At the oil pump the threads sit very high and will not allow the oil pump to sit flush.

Anybody run into this problem before? and how did they fix it? with photos please. My engine is on hold till i can get this sorted out.

this is for a 340 stroker motor.
 
Call ARP, they will send you a "bolt" to fit Under the oïl pump.... Studs were too long, hitting the oil pan. Also, had to enlarge holes in the windage tray.

372 stroker

img_0110.jpg
 
There was a thread on the arp studs/nuts and the oil pump not being allowed to seat. I don't have time to do a search right now....
 
Either have the main cap cut down and cut the bolt to fit or use a stock length bolt and torque it to 100 lbs
 
You will have to use a bolt or trim the stud and use a 12pt nut.
Is it align honed yet?
 
Every time I encounter the oil pump clearance vs stud clearance issue it reminds me to call ARP to ask if they have or are implementing a fix and every time I am the only one who has reported the problem and it's the first they have heard of it, Their customer service kind of makes me wonder if quality control is at the same standard.
 
There is a thread here that resolves the issue. I came across it a while ago when I had the same question on my studs. I choose not to use a windage tray on my 408. I went with ARP 6 point studs. If I remember right I used a 12 point under the oil pump. On the stud under the oil pump it required a slight machining to lower the face on the cap and the 12 point fit. The 12 points are lower profile height than 6 points. It didn't take much. The thread I mention has pictures. you will just have to search for it. unfortunately I don't have any pics of mine I don't believe.
 
I searched around and could not find the mentioned thread or my old thread on ARP studs because I'm certain I had one. I remember going around and round with ARP because they had their kits all wrong. It took them several emails to get it straighten out and I don't know if they ever did fix it. They were not including the right parts and took a few attempts to get it right. I did search my picture and found one picture that shows the stud under the oil pump. it not a great picture but it all I have. Maybe you'll have better luck searching for the thread I mentioned earlier. If I remember it had much better pictures and details.
 

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here ya go. A 6 point and 12 point picture
 

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Ya a little grinding on a stud, and a little grinding on a 12pt nut and a little grinding on the oil pump and it will clear. Seems like an upstanding company would provide a grinder free solution.... but then this is the first they will have heard of an issue.....
 
I cut the stud down and used a 12pt nut under the oil pump...and I also had to cut the nut down as well to make it all fit. As far as the windage tray, in my opinion, you don't need one....I would toss the windage tray in the trash WAY before I would toss a good set of main studs in the trash...JMO.
 
philcollins said:
Call ARP, they will send you a "bolt" to fit Under the oïl pump.... Studs were too long, hitting the oil pan. Also, had to enlarge holes in the windage tray.

372 stroker

img_0110.jpg
Click to expand...
I know this is old thread but noticed your running same studs as me. I have a question on the windage tray studs, when u put the windage tray on did u have nuts on the underside or did u just put the tray on and then the nuts on outside of tray?
 
MoparMark91 said:
I know this is old thread but noticed your running same studs as me. I have a question on the windage tray studs, when u put the windage tray on did u have nuts on the underside or did u just put the tray on and then the nuts on outside of tray?
Click to expand...

Aint no big deal to shorten a stud and change nuts if need be, I even ran into that on my 440 stroker and a stud girdle , it`s called hot rodding !
 
This performance stuff is seldom plug and play.... since every application is different every detail may be different.

Have patience guys....work it out.
 
It's not a big deal but why should every stud set they sell require the same modification? And why when you call them about it, do they have the same response...This is the first we've heard of an issue. And then if you pressure them a bit they'll mail a fix. I've done this a half dozen times myself. Seems they could at least note in their sales information that modification to one stud is necessary for oil pump clearance. Then send a 12 point nut and maybe a shorter stud with the stud kit and instructions for fitting so people know an approved method to address the clearance issue.
 
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I have arp connecting rod bolts, head bolts, flywheel bolts, clutch bolts.
When I was having the conversation about ARP main studs with my engine builder he laughed out loud and said have you ever seen the size of a small block Mopar main bolt!? It's been 4 years for my Stroker and no problem that I know of from my Stock main bolts...
That is if anyone from 2015 gives a rat....
 
Same issue on every set since the 90s for me...
Call them and it’s the first time they have heard this...
GROUND HOG DAY !

Keep calling and you will get a tech that say “oh yeah.... whats your address? I will send the right bolt..”
 
j par said:
When I was having the conversation about ARP main studs with my engine builder he laughed out loud and said have you ever seen the size of a small block Mopar main bolt!? It's been 4 years for my Stroker and no problem that I know of from my Stock main bolts...
Click to expand...

Yes I know I'm a just a bit late with this reply...

My engine machine shop said something similar: "1/2" Main bolts? ... They'll hold the Queen Mary!!" (the Queen Mary being a large passenger ocean liner).

I have no problem in confidence in those stock main bolts. That's fine if you know the full history of the engine from new. Fine if the engine has never been torn down and rebuilt. You know those bolts have only been torqued once (correctly it is assumed) at the factory. But mostly we don't know the history after 50 years and some of those bolts may have been over torqued in a previous rebuild, or over stressed during operation, just can't tell by looking at them
 
Yes, you have nuts on both sides of the stud for the windage tray. Make sure that your rods and crankshaft clear it, and the oil pan. Lotta potential mods there with a Milodon set up.
 
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