Ball joint socket size and where to purchase?

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GHOST RUSTERS

GHOST RUSTERS

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Good morning, FABO, i apologize if this topic has already been covered and I’m just unable to find the correct thread. I’m currently in the beginning stages of refreshing the front end on a 1965 Barracuda 273 v8 with front and rear drum brakes.

For the upper ball joint, I’d like to know what size sockets I will need to remove them and where I might be able to find and or purchase the ball joint sockets.

FWIW, I have followed the advice in most instances in FABO and have already loosened and removed the torsion bars and kept the UCA in place for ease in removing the ball joints. They’ve also been soaking with PB for a week. Thanks so much for any and all suggestions and any other advice to be aware of in the process of refreshing the front end is greatly appreciated! Thanks FABO!

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These sockets are for the early Mopar ball joints.
Snap On s6302
Mac sc52
Proto 6549-L
All are on eBay.
Proto 6549-L has the lowest price.
 
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Soak with break eaze or something. Heat is your friend. For every 1/2” out tighten a smidge like you are tapping it. Otherwise galling is imminent.

Sorry if you knew already.

Just trying to be helpful.

$0.03
 
Thank you everyone! This gives a very good head start in moving forward! I will keep it updated as I continue or have any further concerns. Thanks!
 
I just bought one ,claims to be for small ball joint.
1 59/64".
Too big and sloppy. Haven't tried it yet, but doubt if it'll work. Measure and make sure on the socket you buy.
 
RAT ROD AL said:
I just bought one ,claims to be for small ball joint.
1 59/64".
Too big and sloppy. Haven't tried it yet, but doubt if it'll work. Measure and make sure on the socket you buy.
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I appreciate that and thank you for the heads up, I didn’t realize there was such a large variety of possible sockets. I’ll double check before ordering. Thank you. Mind if I ask where you bought your 1-59/64?
 
clementine said:
Soak with break eaze or something. Heat is your friend. For every 1/2” out tighten a smidge like you are tapping it. Otherwise galling is imminent.

Sorry if you knew already.

Just trying to be helpful.

$0.03
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That’s some GOOD advice and very much appreciated. I would not have made it very far without that very useful tip honestly and would have been right back here looking for help again… and still might haha… but seriously, Thank you for that!
 
coast2coastkidd85 said:
That’s some GOOD advice and very much appreciated. I would not have made it very far without that very useful tip honestly and would have been right back here looking for help again… and still might haha… but seriously, Thank you for that!
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anytime. heat the A arm around where it passes through. Not the ball. Use anti seize or something upon installation of new after cleaning the hole. If you paint the A arm, the paint has its thickness and will make it harder to install. Ive used a vice to hold A arm but have heard that leaving it in the car to hold it while removing ball joint is a way. Dunno where I heard that. It will take a good amount of coaxing. A cheater bar might be in your future unless you have a 3/4 drive breaker. I believe the socket you are going to purchase is 3/4 drive.
 
coast2coastkidd85 said:
I appreciate that and thank you for the heads up, I didn’t realize there was such a large variety of possible sockets. I’ll double check before ordering. Thank you. Mind if I ask where you bought your 1-59/64?
Click to expand...

Off Amazon. Many different ones but smallest is this one.



20240830_154656.jpg
 
townsend said:
These sockets are for the early Mopar ball joints.
Snap On s6302
Mac sc52
Proto 6549-L
All are on eBay.
Proto 6549-L has the lowest price.
Click to expand...
I found a proto 6549-L. Before I order it, Am I understanding correctly that this will work for 60-72 A-body Mopar ball joint? Not trying to second guess your info or be difficult just looking to make sure I’m making the right decision. Thank you!
 
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I believe early A Bodies, 1972 & down, are small ball joint, 73 & up A bodies are large. You would probably do better fitment wise, to get an older Made in U.S.A. socket from someone here. Overseas stuff is not always a very good fit, & you will need a good fitting socket for the upper ball joints, they are in there pretty tight. I use a good 1/2" drive impact gun & a 3/4" to 1/2" drive adaptor to remove them. (Most Mopar ball joint sockets are 3/4" drive) IMHO
 
I agree. Tried and true is the way to go, The proto I found is older and US made. The part number shows the same as @townsend mentioned 6549-L
 
clementine said:
anytime. heat the A arm around where it passes through. Not the ball. Use anti seize or something upon installation of new after cleaning the hole. If you paint the A arm, the paint has its thickness and will make it harder to install. Ive used a vice to hold A arm but have heard that leaving it in the car to hold it while removing ball joint is a way. Dunno where I heard that. It will take a good amount of coaxing. A cheater bar might be in your future unless you have a 3/4 drive breaker. I believe the socket you are going to purchase is 3/4 drive.
Click to expand...
Every point you’ve made here is going into my “don’t forget to:” list when working on the front… thank you for the input, for paint, I usually clean the threads and apply a generous amount of anti seize on/in the threads first… then paint, then remove “painted seize” and then reapply new seize… might not be how the encyclopedia says to do it haha but seems to work alright… I’ve got some bars at the ready should further persuasion be needed and I did leave the control arms in place installed to help keep it rigid while working the old ball joints out… thanks!
 
Just did a test fit on the early small ball joint 2298533 and found a tight fit on all 3 sockets listed in post #4.
 
townsend said:
Just did a test fit on the early small ball joint 2298533 and found a tight fit on all 3 sockets listed in post #4.
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Perfect, thanks for checking! I cleaned the ball joints off but don’t see a part number anywhere, but being it’s a 65 Barracuda and should be the small ball joints, I’ll order the proto 6549-L. Thank you!
 
OK , now you found the socket , I just removed 2 ball joints with my socket that's big and sloppy. Had to beat the joint out of the socket. ( took 1 for the team there ) Now I can't return the socket !
BUT , looks like the threads in the UCA basically just strip out removing both joints. Which is why the other 2 UCAs had the joints ts tack welded in . Good luck !
 
RAT ROD AL said:
OK , now you found the socket , I just removed 2 ball joints with my socket that's big and sloppy. Had to beat the joint out of the socket. ( took 1 for the team there ) Now I can't return the socket !
BUT , looks like the threads in the UCA basically just strip out removing both joints. Which is why the other 2 UCAs had the joints ts tack welded in . Good luck !
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Your ball joints were tack welded in? :wtf:
 
4spdragtop said:
That's normal. The threads are ****.
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Now I’m concerned… “normal” from the factory or as in “someone’s already been in there” Do I need to plan on finding and buying a spare pair of upper control arms just in case? I just ordered the socket and it’ll be here next week hopefully…

IMG_9505.png
 
coast2coastkidd85 said:
Now I’m concerned… “normal” from the factory or as in “someone’s already been in there” Do I need to plan on finding and buying a spare pair of upper control arms just in case? I just ordered the socket and it’ll be here next week hopefully…

View attachment 1716296799
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Id wait. But my build has taken awhile.
 
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