BB motor Question

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swifter

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Does anyone use 440 source stuff in there dedicated strip car?????? or is just chit stuff????? Steve
 
I have and had good luck with it and if you use there roller rocker replace the ajusters..that's the weakest part of them........Artie
 
Lots of guys do. But - don't believe it's all "ready to run" out of the boxes. It's good value - meaning it's initial cost and lifespan are good provided you verify everything else is right. You will need to spend to get a competition-ready, dead reliable and repeatable engine from them... just like anything else really.
 
THanks-Yep from all the reading i've done on them u have to disassemble and check everything before building the motor--Steve
 
I don't like the noise of the roller rockers.
They didn't stay in adjustment.
Replaced them with Crane rockers.
The set of Stealth heads my machinist had a corner ear brake off on the 2nd of the 3 tq sequence when torquing the heads down.
Side note they would not replace the head either.
Some people have had better luck than I have.
 
IIRC there is a mopar powered dragster that runs bracket over at GLD with a 440 source rotating assembly.
 
spare parts were you at Kaukana last friday??????? that was me and my son with the plum crazy duster---Steve
 
womanater--That's just Bad business I mean BAG ugly business practices on 440's part---Steve
 
I'm talking about the complete rotating assembly,The heads,Does anyone here run a complete 440source engine down the strip--Steve
 
I like the dimensions of there 512" package for what your trying to do if using the 400. I've never had any experience with them, and maybe someone else offers a similar package. The 4.25 stroke, 6.535rod, along with a 1.32 comp height, looks a decent deal as far as reliability and cubes for a all track car. I could see a mild 550/600hp package with some slightly kissed eddy's, a mildish solid roller, on pump gas, with 2" pipes, a single plane, and a 950/1050 carb. Just something that you wouldn't have to run the "wee" out of to get deep in the 10's.

I know you have experience with the 5.7 Hemi, and that's a huge plus if you decided to go that way. I'm just throwing out my own thoughts as far as the BB. So many ways to get there.....I completely understand how much thought has to go into this.

Then again, you could always buy a teen from a certain member here...:poke:.....Just kidding. :D
 
swifter said:
I'm talking about the complete rotating assembly,The heads,Does anyone here run a complete 440source engine down the strip--Steve
Click to expand...

My honest opinion is that if you want round after round reliability you need to coin up for it. Cheap stuff can work but often doesn't offer the same potential.
The last BB I played with was in a back halfed 71 dart with a ladder bar and 31x10.5's, a cage and a diet. With a simple +.030 440, a mopar stage 6 head and a 1050cfm Dominator, a MP 590 cam, BME aluminum rods and 12.5:1 we were very consistent 10.30's at 136-8. It would 60' 1.40 on the back tires before the wheelie bars were added. I miss that! Cutting the brake loose at 4200 was a blast :glasses7:
 
guy with 528 440 source stuff went in the 8's on a rail for a few years and sold the short block to a different guy that is still going after about 3yrs and I got the heads off it 440-1...:D he now has a big Shelton motor:prayer:
 
I have a 512 kit that lasted 10 passes and threw #2 rod. It was part failure. Like other people have said have everything checked out and don't pay them to balance the rotating assembly.I still use the 7 Icon pistons and same crank in this new motor.
 
So -We haven't heard of any crank failures yet--Steve
 
I run stock steel crank Clevit bearings, Eagle rods, Ross piston's (all balanced locally), Ultradyne soild cam 620. Hughes roller rockers 1.6.
Bulldog aluminum heads (Hughes, same as ez Indy's)
My motor has 1000's of passes, and only been freshened twice. Both times everything was fine, just ringed it, and new oil pump for safety. I always replace the retainers and keepers with cranes, just for safety (I broke a retainer once, cheap titanium ones, but didn't drop a valve) so I went to Crane steel ones, never had a problem again.
Motors been in 3 cars, went 9's in the light one for years, mid 10's in the 2 heavy ones for years.I 've won tons of races.
Grunt the motor, shift @ 6200, cross @ 6500-6700.
My friend had a 440 source head break like womanator, they did replace it, he sent them back, got his money back, and bought Edelbrock heads.In my opinion, most the heads are O.K. it' s the junk hardware...Read valves springs and retainers that are the issue.Two of my buddies drag race Pro Comps (excuse me), but both dropped valves,hogged them out, then put good hardware in them, now they work good.
Even my razoo (according to Hughes) had crappy springs & retainers, we re-did them.
 
Seen way too many problems with that 440 Source stuff. I'll throw Pro Comp and Professional Products under the bus with them.
 
got a friend with a 517 out of a 400 6.635 rods Fred Brewer on alky 2700ib cuda 5.30 with water leaking outside and inside the head.He used Ohio crankshaft. ff to 223

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzr56o_hp9w&feature=c4-overview-vl&list=PLA0CC910C8F2A781D"]Kdale 11Apr09(2) - YouTube[/ame]
 
Muscle Motors built my 493.
300 plus Pass's
Freshened up yearly.
Mopar 8 bolt crank.
Ross pistons
Manley rods.
Indy heads.
This is whats in my race car.
And still going strong.

 
Stay away from the roller rockers.
Took a set off because of some of the issues I had read about and noticed a crack forming right near those needle bearings.
I cringe to think of it.
BUT, I have been running a crank, rods and pistons with no trouble.
 
Thanks Guy's--Still no one with crank failure from them,Rod yes and I know about the heads,So they might be a option for a crank but no to rockers and rods--Got it--Steve
 
swifter said:
Thanks Guy's--Still no one with crank failure from them,Rod yes and I know about the heads,So they might be a option for a crank but no to rockers and rods--Got it--Steve
Click to expand...

I would really look at what the additional cost is to go to a name brand crank. Who knows it may pay for itself at the machine shop later
 
Sweet--Thanks for the link !!!!! Not bad $$$$$$$ Anyone use these cranks and Rods--Steve
 
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