Bendix master vac power brake set up

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73Charger318

Member Rt 66 Mopar Club
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My 65 Barracuda came equipped with the Bendix power brake set up with the vacuum canister on the fender. The canister appears to be in great shape for it's age, I'm going to pull it off and make sure it's holding air then freshen it up.

The piece in the pictures if between the intake and booster. I can't imagine this is stock, even without the duct tape. This piece is closed on both ends and appears to block all vacuum from the intake to the booster.

I'm noticing the vacuum hose fitting nipple is listed in the 65 parts manual, #1944154. There is an Asterix, noting a change or addition. Most sites like fee bay say this doesn't fit my 65. Is this what I need, or is there a reason someone would have blocked intake vacuum to the booster?

Thanks everyone!

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Early As used an inline check valve- I can't find a picture right now, but it was kind of similar to what you've shown. Looks like it was a leaker and the PO taped it up because he couldn't find a replacement?
I think @65dartcharger may be of some assistance here.
 
Early As used an inline check valve- I can't find a picture right now, but it was kind of similar to what you've shown. Looks like it was a leaker and the PO taped it up because he couldn't find a replacement?
I think @65dartcharger may be of some assistance here.
Thanks. I actually broke it, it was very fragile from years of sitting. I super glued it back together then used the duct tape as some added insurance. If this item item is correct for the car I would love to find another one. It didn't appear to be a valve, it seemed like its would block all vacuum from the intake, but I'm sure I'm wrong.
 
You pretty much must have a check valve. If you are into the throttle, the engine vacuum drops, and if you need to grab the brakes before the engine can recover and generate vacuum, you will be faced with a panic stop and poor boost
 
You pretty much must have a check valve. If you are into the throttle, the engine vacuum drops, and if you need to grab the brakes before the engine can recover and generate vacuum, you will be faced with a panic stop and poor boost
Maybe I'll pull this thing off and take some pics of it and let everyone see the valve, maybe even find a part number. Again it doesn't appear to be a valve, it appears to totally block the vacuum because the end the hose attaches to that goes to the booster appears to be sealed.
 
It's a check valve....or at least it once was. Looks like the stock one to me. Good luck finding an NOS or even a good used one. Unless you need it for a restoration, I'd pull that thing off along with the booster and reservoir and make the car manual brakes. Those boosters were nothing but trouble and the repair parts are getting pretty hard to find the last time I looked. I'd convert to a dual hydraulic master cylinder while I was at it. Just get one with a small piston diameter if you want an easier pedal.
 
It's a check valve....or at least it once was. Looks like the stock one to me. Good luck finding an NOS or even a good used one. Unless you need it for a restoration, I'd pull that thing off along with the booster and reservoir and make the car manual brakes. Those boosters were nothing but trouble and the repair parts are getting pretty hard to find the last time I looked. I'd convert to a dual hydraulic master cylinder while I was at it. Just get one with a small piston diameter if you want an easier pedal.
Thanks. Never been a fan of the widow maker single jars anyway. I converted my 63 Dart to front disc and a dual master. When you talk about piston diameter do you mean the bore size? Would I be after something like this if I decided to do this? This would assume I stay with four wheel drums.

 
Thanks. Never been a fan of the widow maker single jars anyway. I converted my 63 Dart to front disc and a dual master. When you talk about piston diameter do you mean the bore size? Would I be after something like this if I decided to do this? This would assume I stay with four wheel drums.

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Yes. I would even go under an inch if you can find one. A little lower pedal, but, less braking effort with your foot. You'll need to get a manual pedal rod too. Either a stock one or aftermarket adjustable.
 
Here is the check valve. It may be working as it should. I broke the booster end off and I'm concerned of it breaking from motor vibration. I guess these were used because the tank held reserve vacuum on these early A's. It's hard to read the part number. Looks like 3798284

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My book shows the part number as being 2074934.
Book? I can't find that number in my 1965 parts manual. Anyway, talking to a guy on eBay selling one of the tanks, he says this is the correct valve, he has two of them. He said they don't make them anymore, so to handle them like glass. lol. I'm just leaving it on the counter until the motor is gone through. I have no oil pressure, so bigger fish to fry.
 
Book? I can't find that number in my 1965 parts manual. Anyway, talking to a guy on eBay selling one of the tanks, he says this is the correct valve, he has two of them. He said they don't make them anymore, so to handle them like glass. lol. I'm just leaving it on the counter until the motor is gone through. I have no oil pressure, so bigger fish to fry.
If you're not too concerned about a $$ number matching part, most any inline check valve will work just fine.
Ate Power Brake Booster Check Valve For Audi BMW VW Mercedes-Benz Volvo 9485451 | eBay
 
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