bent k member

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mellow_utah

mellow_utah

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Ok, so my k member is bent, it looks like its been bottomed out on the passenger strut mount. The passenger wheel is actualy back approx 1/2" from the drivers side. My question is, hopefully its not to dumb, but is it worth swapping the K-member or buying some adjustable strut rods to make up the distance that the strut rod mount has been bent back? I could swap the k member if I can find one but its a bit of a pain if an adjustable strut rod would do it. My main concern with going the strut rod route is the geometry because one strut rod would be adjusted aprox 1/2" farther in than the other side. Any input? Thanks!
 
if your "K" is that bent-- how are your frame rails? I would have that car checked for square & a new K installed, Lawrence
 
ok thanks, thats what I was worried about. Ill put the /6 k member back in and get some conversion motor mounts. There are no sway bar mounts on either k member that I have is there a benifit to the early or late styles? The /6 k-member is out of a 73 car if that makes a difference.
 
actually I swapped the k-member into the car and found that it was bent....I should have measured beforehand....dumb mistake i was in a hurry
 
I have straightened a k-member. It's not an easy job, but it can be done. I did build a jig AND separated the top and bottom of the k-member.
 
mellow_utah said:
actually I swapped the k-member into the car and found that it was bent....I should have measured beforehand....dumb mistake i was in a hurry
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Sorry to hear about your bad luck. I swapped out my K member last weekend. I guess I got lucky. I welded mine, blasted it and repainted it before installing. Guess I should have measured mine too. I would have crapped myself if it didn't fit.

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Another option would be to move engine mount pads from one K to the other.
The 73 and later K has cutaways that allow a sway bar to pass through the middle of it. The earlier K is closed so that sway bar went around instead of through. The only other sway bar provisions on a K member is a few bolt holes.
 
Ok, so if I put the 73 /6 k member in i will have the straighter style sway bar that goes through the k member, does that mean I need the 73 + lower control arms too? I have a set but i will have to check if they are 73+ or pre 73.
 
You can run either style sway bar on the late k-member. I have seen some that were already drilled for the frame mounts. I have also seen when one half was drilled (well, more likely stamped)...
 
If the lower arms don't have tabs on them for the sway bar end links it doesn't matter which pair you use. Most aftermarket bars attach at tabs mounted on the lower shock bolt.
 
ok, so I can use my lower control arms without sway bar mounts? I have new bushings in the stock ones and would have to replace the bushings in the lowers i have with the mounts. So if I can use either sway bar, is there a benifit to one over the other?
 
mellow_utah said:
ok, so I can use my lower control arms without sway bar mounts? I have new bushings in the stock ones and would have to replace the bushings in the lowers i have with the mounts. So if I can use either sway bar, is there a benifit to one over the other?
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If you are going aftermarket on a sway bar then nothing matters. If you already have a factory sway bar you need the matching lower control arms.
 
ok i will call pst to see if their sway bar works without factory mounts on the control arms, i dont have a welder so I am kinda limited to bolt on parts for the time being. Thanks for all the info!
 
in my opinion replace the k member i crashed my 73 duster into a curb drifting it it wasn't THAT hard n the only damage i could visibly see was the little 'lip' part in the front of it that was bent up with that said, it goes too show how easy it is to 'unsure' the front i bought a donor 73 scamp for 300 bucks took out the perfect back seat and everything from the doors forward that i could fit in my duster so i got a duster n half luckily the car was 10 in front drum n i even heard the back plates can be used to upgrade to disk?? (not sure on that) but it was a s6 k which is lighter than a v8 k and preferred for drag apps since it is lighter. I'm making mine a 383 with just these weld-on engine mounts from shumacher n a bit of cutting on the k hope this helps extra s6 parts for sale n maybe other things if anyone needs em send me a message hope this helped -kevin
 
The /6 k members are lighter than the v8s? I didnt realize they were different other than the engine mounting points? I looked at firm feel, they have a reinforcement kit for 75 bucks that I was considering. I also looked at their k members and at $500 bucks I would rather use the reinforcement kit or look into the QA1 k member for $586.
 
Nope, all the k-members are about the same weight. There may be some variance with the type of mount bracket, but they're all the same strength and rough weight.
 
deathdust73 said:
in my opinion replace the k member i crashed my 73 duster into a curb drifting it it wasn't THAT hard n the only damage i could visibly see was the little 'lip' part in the front of it that was bent up with that said, it goes too show how easy it is to 'unsure' the front i bought a donor 73 scamp for 300 bucks took out the perfect back seat and everything from the doors forward that i could fit in my duster so i got a duster n half luckily the car was 10 in front drum n i even heard the back plates can be used to upgrade to disk?? (not sure on that) but it was a s6 k which is lighter than a v8 k and preferred for drag apps since it is lighter. I'm making mine a 383 with just these weld-on engine mounts from shumacher n a bit of cutting on the k hope this helps extra s6 parts for sale n maybe other things if anyone needs em send me a message hope this helped -kevin
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All the K frames are all about the same weight so there is no concern there. Also your 10" drum brakes will only help on disc brake swap if you buy a kit from Scarebird or a similar company. To go to OEM discs the drum spindles and backing plates are worthless.
 
I actually already have discs, it is a 1973 /6 factory air, power steering and power disc brake car which is nice because I didn't have to convert it. If the k members are the same ill either look for a pre 73 v8 k member so I can use the mounts I used or put the /6 k member back in and buy the Schumacher conversion mounts. Thanks!
 
I'm just getting ready to buy the firm feel's reinforcement plates so I could weld up my k-member. This thread has got me thinking. My k-member is sitting out back with the lca's and strut rods attached. How do you check for straight and square? What should I measure? From which points to which points? Any diagrams?
 
Chances are that if it is tweaked it won't be rectangular. Measure hole to hole, diagonally. If they're not REAL close, it's not square...
 
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